24 March 28th-april 3rd, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | A New Leaf Crete Tea Room redefines tea culture with uncomplicated charm. BY NATASHA YEE T he space is a minimalist’s para- dise. There’s no clutter here, just concrete floors and coun- ters, beige walls and simple built-in seating punctuated by an occasional plant or Buddha statue. The Instagram photos almost take themselves. Crete Tea Room opened at 19th Street and McDowell Road in early January. The uncomplicated atmosphere sets the stage for some exceptional sips. Lattes are made with fine, pungent Japanese tea powders, there are a handful of iced options and loose leaf varieties like masala chai and Chinese fermented tea Pu-erh beckon from clear glass containers. Owner Jimmy Nguyen also runs Slain Studios, an adjacent nail salon that boasts similar minimalistic vibes. Many of his clients would arrive late to their appoint- ments, AJ’s tea in hand, he says, which sparked the idea for Crete. “Have you ever had dim sum?” he asks. “My favorite part is the tea. You sit and stuff yourself, you’re really not talking much. But then, toward the end, you just sit, drink tea and enjoy the conversation. That’s what I like to see people doing here.” And while coffee joints in metro Phoenix are plentiful, Nguyen noticed that tea was still largely an untapped market. He checked out other tea shops in the area, but felt they were unapproachable with long and complicated menus. He wanted to offer the experience via an easy-to-read menu that even tea novices could get into. Ernesto Vazquez, Crete’s beverage consultant and head barista, is a key part of that vision. Vazquez has worked with coffee and tea for years at the likes of Cartel Roasting Co. and Aftermarket, a gallery and cafe on Grand Avenue. As he explains the methodology behind Ca Phe, a Vietnamese pour over, his passion for the craft is apparent. Each serving is weighed and ground to order. Vazquez pours the hot water over the grounds, sitting in a stainless steel coffee filter, in a spiral pattern and it slowly drips into the cylindrical container below. The drink gets a touch of sweetened condensed milk as he pours it over crushed ice, though it can also be served hot. Ca Phe is a comforting milky concoction, not too sweet for even the most sensitive palate. The Wakocha, an earthy black tea powder combined with oat milk and agave, is next. It’s more mellow than other black teas with a chocolatey, nutty flavor that pairs well with the creamy oat milk. This is a great place to step outside your comfort zone and try something new. Go for the Hojicha, another drink made with finely-sifted tea powder, or the Pu-erh, a fermented tea which comes packaged in tiny nests wrapped in white paper. Crete doesn’t currently offer pastries, though it plans to in the future; Vazquez mentions egg tarts and other Asian specialties. Nail techs from next door sip on tea and soak up sunlight on their lunch breaks while a few other customers work on their laptops or mill about the space. Crete Tea Room is a good place to clear your head, beverage in hand, whether you decide to show up with a group of friends, a la dim sum, or go solo. Crete Tea Room 1906 E. McDowell Road Owner Jimmy Nguyen (left) and head barista Ernesto Vazquez are proud of the shop, which opened in January and offers teas from around the world. (Photo by Natasha Yee) ▼ Food & Drink
