20 March 23rd–March 29th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | music | cafe | film | culTuRe | NighT+Day | feaTuRe | NeWs | OPiNiON | feeDBacK | cONTeNTs | mon-THU: 9AM - 7PM fri: 9AM - 7PM sat: 9AM - 6PM sun: 10AM - 5PM 3330 w Van Buren St • Phoenix • 602-272-0034 (NE Corner of 35th Ave & Van Buren) *prices are subject Bunk-Bed-Frame 2pc sectional Box and mattress with mattress CHESTs Starting from 4pc bedroom set 5 drawer chest $309 $529 WESTSIDEFURNITURE.com VALLEY-WIDE DELIVERY AVAILAbLE CALL foR pRICIng T-$119 F-$139 Q-$169 K- $289 $639 Choice of fabrics Twin Mattress w/ 6” Foam $7995 $439 $139 $139 menonita cheese that is made 30 minutes from where Hernandez grew up, are on display. Diners will also find Holguin’s tortillas, which are served at the three Tacos Chiwas taquerias, Bacanora, and Espiritu. At Cocina Chiwas, mashed potato, butter, and cabbage are tucked inside, and the tacos are fried. While Tacos Chiwas will always stay true to Chihuahuan cuisine, Cocina Chiwas is a space for the pair to play with ingredients. Holguin plans to regularly create new specials. “With [Cocina Chiwas], I want to be more open-minded, I want to be more adventurous,” she says, noting that she already has a list of items she wants to cook. According to Andrade, Holguin is quiet and composed in the kitchen, and her work hits with flavors that take him back to his childhood. Andrade recalls a recent special he had at Cocina Chiwas: Sopa de Fideo, which is a noodle soup with a tomato and stock base. “She puts her heart into it,” he says. “It’s so amazing to see how they are able to put things on their menu that remind us of our childhood. It’s very powerful.” Hernadez, on the other hand, is “a different beast,” Andrade notes. When he’s cooking, Hernandez often can be found dancing and singing along to music. Putting this playfulness in the kitchen aside, Andrade and Centeno both highlight Hernandez’s business acumen and honest advice that he offers as a friend and as a business partner. “They’re truly a great team,” Andrade says of Hernandez and Holguin. That teamwork is evident on Cocina Chiwas’ menu, which includes dishes such as Costilla de res, a wood-fired beef short rib; Chile Relleno; and Arroz con Camaron — a nod to fried rice with Baja shrimp and salsa macha. Fans of the former Roland’s Cafe will see some familiar dishes, including open-faced quesadillas crisped in the oven, and mussels with house-made chorizo and Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes that are infused with smoke in the oven and served with a crostini of Proof bread. “We try to use every aspect of the grill,” Hernandez says. “It all has some type of smoke, some type of char to it.” ‘We’re Serving Food We Love’ Cocina Chiwas currently serves dinner and drinks with a focus on wine, but Hernandez and Holguin plan to add lunch and will expand the menu as they go. To see Cocina Chiwas come to life feels like a full-circle moment for the pair. “We’re here, and we still can’t believe we’re here,” Holguin says. “We’re serving food we love.” Andrade says the team shouldn’t be underestimated, noting that Tacos Chiwas, Espiritu, and Bacanora are often alongside each other on best restaurant lists. “That’s three restaurants that they own. Six months from now, there’s going to be a fourth one,” he says, predicting that Cocina Chiwas soon will join those ranks. The opening of Cocina Chiwas has Hernandez reflecting on what the couple has built. He thinks back to their first taqueria, which they hoped would attract enough customers to fill 30 seats. They’ve filled those and countless more since then. “I feel like we have a very complete port- folio,” he says. While their plate is looking full right now, when asked if the Valley can expect more restaurants or collaborations from them in the future, Hernandez shrugs: “Life is weird. You never know.” Cocina Chiwas 2001 East Apache Boulevard, Tempe 480-916-3690 cocinachiwasaz.com Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Dynamic from p 19 Holguin and Hernandez at their original McDowell Road location. Jacob Tyler Dunn
