19 March 23rd–March 29th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | meat-stuffed quesadilla, and carne asada. Bacanora has garnered intense buzz, earning a James Beard nomination for Best New Restaurant in 2022 and a nod to Andrade and Roberto Centeno for Best Chef, Southwest this year. “Every day, they left an impact on me,” Andrade says of Hernandez and Holguin. “I always have a high standard of my food, of everything I do, and they hold them- selves to the same.” Holguin agrees, saying it was something she noticed about Andrade when they first worked together at House Brasserie. “[We] feel the same way,” she says. “We wanted to bring that to Phoenix, to Arizona, to showcase our culture, to show- case Mexican food.” The couple likewise encouraged and partnered with Centeno, Andrade’s cousin, and Andrade to open Espiritu, a vibe-heavy cocktail bar and seafood-driven restaurant in downtown Mesa, one door down from the third Tacos Chiwas. The idea for Espiritu came after Centeno, Hernandez, and Holguin visited San Francisco and stopped at a small shotgun-style spot. When Hernandez saw a similar layout at the building in Mesa, he told Centeno they could make a restaurant happen there. After putting their heads together, they built the place out in six weeks, Centeno recalls. “Armando is an extremely goal-driven person,” Centeno says, “You will rarely see [him] say something and not make it happen.” It’s an attitude Hernandez and Holguin share. “We grew up with this immigrant mentality, where we come in very much about working hard and figuring things out,” Hernandez says. Or, as Centeno puts it, “It’s confidence.” A Team Effort That confidence has manifested in the latest venture from Hernandez and Holguin — Cocina Chiwas. The idea for the restaurant had been percolating for years. During the throes of the pandemic, they began planning in earnest. In a time that was filled with so much loss and uncer- tainty, it gave them a chance to create something positive and build anticipation for the future, Hernandez says. “[Cocina Chiwas is] very much about showing who we are, showing that Mexican food is complex,” Hernandez says. “It’s an opportunity for Nadia and myself to get back into the kitchen to focus all the energy and everything we’ve been doing for the last seven years.” When the Culdesac team, who are regular diners at Tacos Chiwas, approached the couple, Hernandez was intrigued by the opportunity to be part of the development. Culdesac bills itself as a “five-minute city” experience, walkable to a coworking space, coffee — and Cocina Chiwas. “I like the ethos of what they’re doing,” Hernandez says. “I drive everywhere, so density in an area like this is really cool. I love being part of unique things in general, and this area seemed to be that.” Finding the right community for their restaurants has always been important to the couple. “We very much like to ingrain ourselves with community,” Hernandez said. The new restaurant is airy, bright, and modern. Natural elements including woven baskets and hanging plants provide warmth, as do the walnut-stained tables and booths. Cactus-green tiles on the bar and a wine wall are eye-catching. The wood-fired grill sits next to a wood-fired oven in an open kitchen, where diners can watch the chefs work. The menu shows “where we come from but also where we’re going,” Hernandez says. Elements from the couple’s Chihuahaun heritage, from the burning pecan and mesquite wood to the The couple with Phoenix restaurant legend Chris Bianco. Dynamic from p 17 >> p 20 Chris Malloy
