27 March 16th–March 22nd, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | From the Source First Taste: Go for the dough, stay for the vino at chef Claudio Urciuoli’s new restaurant. BY GERI KOEPPEL C hef Claudio Urciuoli has earned a great deal of press since he began making his mark in the Valley in the 2000s, and for good reason. The Italian-born chef, who came to the U.S. in his twenties, is known for using high-quality ingredients and preparing them simply, but in a way that brings out their best. In essence, expert sourcing is a major component of Urciuoli’s success, so it’s fitting that his latest concept is simply called Source. It opened on December 19, 2022, in Epicenter at Agritopia in Gilbert, a hip East Valley complex that’s already welcomed places like Beer Barn, Belly Kitchen + Bar, Peixoto Coffee, and UnderTow, with more on the way. Urciuoli assembled a team that includes chef Trevor Routman, who hails from Chicago, and baker Ryne Spracale. The food and presentations — served with compostable plates and utensils — bear a resemblance to what Urciuoli previ- ously did at Pa’La, but he’s made this concept more accessible both in its menu and pricing,. Most plates fall between $10 and $15 with most bottles of wine priced under $30. Source is modeled after the European idea of a local wine bar serving well-made dishes with honest food at a reasonable cost so people can drop in regularly. And if it takes off, he and his friend and business partner, Akshat Sethi — who also created the fast-growing Thai Chili 2 Go chain — will open more outlets. Rustic breads and pizza crusts are the stars of the show here, thanks to the light and airy yet slightly chewy and subtly tangy characteristics of everything that comes out of the oven. The smell of freshly baked loaves permeates the entire space, making it a danger zone for anyone who can’t or won’t eat carbs. But industrial white flour is verboten here — only specially sourced whole grains are used, and Urciuoli plans to bring in more ancient grains like kamut, einkorn, and emmer. Despite the emphasis on bread, nothing feels heavy, thanks to a Mediterranean menu, which is constantly being tweaked. It relies on top-quality meats, olive oils, beans, nuts, McClendon Farms produce, and a touch of cheese here and there. Urciuoli says he plans to add more fish and seafood as time goes on, depending on how the market responds. One standout during a recent lunch was, unsurprisingly, a pizza. The Salsiccia ($15) was notable for its slightly charred crust, which is made with 80 percent water and allowed to stand 36 hours, making it almost impossibly crispy. It was peppered with tender, gently spicy Arcadia Meat Market Italian sausage, velvety roasted red peppers, a delicate sprinkle of mozzarella, mountain oregano, and a swipe of tangy tomato sauce. | CHOW BELLA | t Café Island Trollers Tuna sandwich boasts high-quality canned albacore on hunks of chewy ciabatta. Geri Koeppel >> p 29
