29 March 16th–March 22nd, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | cONTeNTs | feeDBacK | OPiNiON | NeWs | feaTuRe | NighT+Day | culTuRe | film | cafe | music | The Controne Chickpea Hummus ($9) with flatbread was a shocker. Who knew hummus could be this exciting? It blows away other incarnations out there thanks to silky, nutty pureed chickpeas from the Campania region of Italy, and chermoula, a blend of North African herbs and spices. Even the flatbread triangles are worth shouting about, because they’re warm, golden brown, and sprinkled with za’atar — a mixture of spices and toasted sesame seeds that echo the nutty notes of the chickpeas. Another favorite was the Baby Romaine salad ($10) with a delicate vinai- grette made with pureed pumpkin seeds and anchovies from Cetara, Italy. The dressing was applied as a whisper, letting the farm-fresh flavor of the crisp lettuce, diced red pepper, and sweet cherry toma- toes shine through. Finely grated Parmigiano, aged 24 months, and optional strips of anchovies ($2) added a salty burst that also didn’t overpower. It’s Urciuoli’s take on a Caesar salad, only cleaner and better due to the additional vegetables and feather-light dressing. A slab of bread on the side brushed with olive oil and kissed by the grill had a pleasant crunch and heady char that made this dish a meal in itself. The Island Trollers Tuna ($15) has promise, thanks to fragrant, high-quality canned albacore on giant hunks of chewy, sour ciabatta, but the texture of the toppings, particularly the braised escarole, was a bit slimy. The side salad of leafy greens, crunchy carrots, and cucumbers — again, dressed with a light touch — deliv- ered bright, fresh notes. Unfortunately, the Rice Bowl ($13) wasn’t as flavorful as the Mediterranean dishes, despite the cornucopia of goodies involved. It included Koshihikari rice (a grain developed in Japan after World War II), farro, roasted vegetables, mushrooms, Controne beans, pumpkin seeds, ginger pickled cucumber, nori, and togarashi, but it came off as one-dimensional. The compact Antipastino ($15) plate delivered decent starters like tender Castelvetrano olives, spicy almonds, slightly funky Pecorino Toscano cheese, chewy salametto, and house bread with tons of nooks and crannies. Not everything worked — the hot pepper jam tasted too much like Sriracha and the crackers were dry and crumbly — but the rest begs to be paired with a glass of wine. Speaking of vino, Source’s list boasts an international array of natural selections with most glasses at $10 and most bottles in the $20s. Selections come from Arizona and California along with Italy, France, Greece, Mexico, and Slovenia. Wines can also be purchased to go, and one corner of the space is devoted to a few shelves with bottles along with imported provisions such as dry pasta and special olive oils. All beers, meanwhile, are from local darling Wren House Brewing Co. The ambiance is minimalist chic yet bright and cheery, with black counters, white subway tiles, and wood-look furni- ture. For now, the patio is the place to be, because the interior only seats 15 with just a few two-tops and counter stools. Urciuoli says it’s still a work in progress; he plans to enclose the patio in the summer and add more plants for ambiance. The bulk of the business so far has been locals who walk and bike to grab a light meal or take home a loaf of bread, he says. But Source is worth a trip to see what might be coming next, if all goes well and the idea expands. It’d be great to have a Source in every neighborhood for lighter, healthier, better-sourced options — espe- cially from one of the best chefs in town. Source 3150 East Ray Road, #104, Gilbert eatatsource.com Source from p 27 Above: The patio at Source. Below: Chermoula and za’atar add zip to Source’s Controne chickpea hummus. Geri Koeppel Geri Koeppel
