26 March 2nd–March 8th, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | music | cafe | film | culTuRe | NighT+Day | feaTuRe | NeWs | OPiNiON | feeDBacK | cONTeNTs | Going Green This Phoenix vegan restaurant serves classic comfort food minus the meat. BY RUDRI PATEL A s soon as you walk into the Tempe location of Green New American Vegetarian, you’re hit with a fun and whimsical vibe. There’s a buzz among patrons standing in line surveying the menu and an entire wall filled with colorful car doors, a rainbow menagerie that automatically screams that this restaurant is something different. And it’s different in a good way. For 18 years, Green New American Vegetarian has served vegan and vegetarian comfort food. While plant-based food may more commonly be associated with health food than comfort, owner Damon Brasch recognized there was a need for good vegan eats when he moved from the midwest to Phoenix. The concept of the restaurant almost started by accident. “A lot of my friends were playing in bands and were vegan and none of them had really anything to eat,” he says. “I would set up shop in my friend’s house and cook for various bands that were rolling through town.” And then in 2005, he decided to launch his own restaurant. The aim was to satisfy everyone, including those who prefer meat, Brasch says. He admits his father-in- law is a meat and potato guy, but loves the food at Green. “You know, frequently, meat lovers enjoy the food. That’s the biggest compli- ment we could ever get. And that’s defi- nitely what we set out to do,” Brasch says. However, it hasn’t always been easy to convince meat-eaters to give his food a shot, Brasch says. One year during the Arizona Culinary Festival, Brasch interacted with a Northern Arizonan cattle owner, dressed in a cowboy hat and a belt buckle. He stopped and looked at the vegan buffalo wings and immediately said, “What the hell is this?” When he was told that the wings were vegan, the cowboy responded, “I’ve raised cattle for a living. I am not eating anything vegan.” He ultimately tried the wings and Brasch recalls seeing this meat-loving man’s face change. After a few bites, he remarked, “that is pretty damn good.” At that moment, Brasch knew he had something special in Green and its mission. In 2011, Brasch opened his second location in Phoenix when he realized “there were people who were clamoring for it and really wanting this concept on a different side of town.” The menu at both locations features buffalo wings, of course, served with a homemade ranch sauce. Biting into the wing, the consistency and texture are satis- fying and the sauce has a tangy, spicy kick. Snack on the wings as an appetizer, or bulk up the meal with a side of fries. Green’s fries are hot, thin, and crispy. They make a natural pairing with one of Green’s burgers, made any way you want. A fan favorite is the Big Wac. It consists of two “meat” patties with lettuce, cheese, tomatoes, pickles, Green’s special sauce, and a sesame bun. Other options include the Chicago Cheesesteak made with seitan steak. Similarly, there is a chicken equivalent in the Secret BBQ Sammie that features a special barbecue sauce and caramelized onions. These entrees are enjoyable, not only because you don’t miss the meat, but because the sauces that Green uses aren’t found anywhere else. Brasch credits the many different varia- tions of his dishes to his staff. Recently, he has delegated duties to his executive chef, Alex Chevalier, and to his staff, who he says, “come up with the most unique craft cocktails.” “For many years, it was mostly my wife, Katherine, and I, but now as we get older, the younger crew is definitely carrying that torch and they’re doing an amazing job at it,” he says. The pandemic did slow business Breakfast and brunch options are also on tap at Green New American Vegetarian. >> p 28 Emily Thomas
