“Absolutely not. Not in any way, shape or form,” Anderson says. “We don’t change what we do. To us, every guest that sits down is an inspector.” When Christopher Gross, chef at Christopher’s at Wrigley Mansion, worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris in the 1980s, inspectors made outrageous requests that tipped their hand. For example, if quail was on the menu, they’d ask to see the bird with proof of the farm and its tag. Times have changed. While the 1995 James Beard Award winner isn’t sure whether his restaurant has been visited, Gross admits to Googling possible clues. “So you’re looking at every single diner,” he says. Taking photos and notes — despite the ubiquity of social media food posts — are potential signs. Gross says he jokes with customers: “If you want extra bites or glasses of wine, come in with a notepad on your knee and take a few pictures.” Not long ago, one diner fit this criteria, claiming he was in town for a nearby convention. As the guest proved chatty, Gross eliminated him as a suspect. “That is not the M.O. of an inspector,” says Gross. “Maybe all of this is (like) playing telephone.” EXCITEMENT AND FEAR Gross says since the announcement was made, his team has doubled down on their pursuit of excellence. “You try to do your best, always. But it pushes you. Have I missed something?” Gross says. “You’re looking closer and think, ‘Yeah, I could do better on that.’ But we do that for every single guest.” Gross thinks Michelin wants to reward more than great food. He hopes his restau- rant stands out for its retractable roof, purse stands at the tables and the glass bathrooms with stunning views. After the announcement, Reddy and the Feringhee staff held a meeting specifically about Michelin to ensure daily operations were at the top of their game. “There is no room for any mistakes,” Reddy says. “We know the standards of the Michelin star, and those are the standards of our hospitality group.” At Indibar, chef Nigel Lobo hopes his restaurant will get its shot. The prospect of a star has invigorated his whole team, he says. “But at the end of the day, the restau- rant wins a Michelin star and not a chef,” he says. “To be proud of what we put on the plate is the most important part.” Stulak says the wait has been a roller coaster, with suspense growing as riders make the slow climb to the pinnacle. This is where the true rush happens, before the inevitable plunge when Michelin hands out the honors. “The anticipation of knowing or not knowing, that is arguably the greatest driver,” Stulak says. “If you win the star, then fantastic. If not, while heartbreaking, that gives us an idea to see what we’re up against for the following year.” DEFLECTING THE SPOTLIGHT Charleen Badman, chef and co-owner of FnB and 2019 James Beard Award winner, never assumed her Old Town Scottsdale eatery had the kind of pomp and flair needed to be in star territory. Badman has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants abroad, and in her own restaurant, she strives to showcase the best ingredients Arizona has to offer. That continues to be her focus, rather than seeking accolades, she says. “A lot of people put a lot of faith in us when they walk through those doors,” she says. “I want to give them the best experi- ence possible, so nothing’s changed. I’m not going to do something different. It’s already hard enough to do our work — this doesn’t need to be any harder.” After Michelin’s announcement, Hana’s Hashimoto saw social media reels from chefs questioning the pay-to-play element. The decision to include Arizona was partly fueled by the Arizona Office of Tourism paying Michelin $200,000. Restaurants don’t pay to be considered. After 19 years running her family restaurant, Hashimoto focuses on the customers. They helped her restaurant through the pandemic, they celebrate anniversaries and birthdays at the restau- rant. Many in the Japanese community tell her the dishes remind them of what their parents or grandparents used to make. “That star on the wall, it is what it is,” Hashimoto says. “But the community around you is who makes you what you are. They’re the ones who allow you to live your dream. My food isn’t always pretty, and they may not be plated perfectly. But it feels like home, it feels warm. I don’t want to change that about Hana.” In 2015, Martha Stewart was in town for the Phoenix Open and was craving tempura. Award-winning chefs Chris Bianco and Silvana Salcido Esparza pointed Stewart to Hana. “That’s how she ended up here,” Hashimoto says. “Not the Michelin Guide.” ‘WORKING FOR THE STAR’ Because the star goes to the restaurant, everyone connected to it stands to benefit. Oppold thinks about the impact a star would have on his team. “It brightens their futures for whatever they try to do later on,” Oppold says. “It’s very beneficial for Arizona, especially if they are finding these spots that never got a James Beard recognition.” Gross experienced this firsthand. Doors opened to him as a youngster in the industry thanks to having Michelin restau- rants on his resume. He joked with his staff after the December announcement. “Be on your toes — Michelin could come in at any time,” Gross told his team. “But don’t think of the restaurant: Think of yourself. If we get a star, you could quit and have a better-paying job the next day.” He explains that winning a star is a great accomplishment that comes with a price. Unlike James Beard Awards, Michelin stars can be renewed year after year, or they can be lost. This pushes winners to take steps to maintain stars: hiring more people, changing the dinnerware, studying every plate to see if the thin green trim is even or if it needs to be painted over. Chefs begin second- and third-guessing minutiae. “If you win, then the fear of losing it creeps in,” Gross says. “There’s the pres- sure to keep it up. Then, you’re working for the star.” IMPACT ON ARIZONA DINING Chefs who miss out on the first guide may be wondering this fall what they could’ve done better. But for now, they’re united in the belief that the guide’s arrival will boost the state’s dining. Kai’s Anderson points to culinary hubs like New York, Washington, D.C., and Chicago — the company Phoenix wants to keep. “The impact will be massive and create a more thriving restaurant scene,” Anderson says. “It’ll make for a healthy drive and competitive nature, which all chefs want in order to get to the next level.” Kai Chef de Cuisine Drew Anderson puts the finishing touches on one of his dishes. (Jill McNamara Photography) James Beard Award-winning Charleen Badman is a champion of using local produce. (Chris Malloy) Christopher Gross, a James Beard Award- winning chef, helms his namesake restaurant at Wrigley Mansion. (Jacob Tyler Dunn) Chef Nigel Lobo of Indibar. (Isaac Torres) Lori Hashimoto is the chef and owner of Hana Japanese Eatery. (Hana Japanese Eatery) >> p 16
