24 Feb 29th–March 6th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Must-Try Mole Red or black, poured over chips or smothering a burrito, this mole is outstanding. BY TIRION BOAN I n Litchfield Park, the word is out about Alebrijes Cafe & Grill. Customers routinely wait long stretches for a table at the homey restaurant, but they willingly do so, confidently knowing that the food is so worth it. Alebrijes opened in 2021 in a West Valley shopping center. From the outside, the building looks more like a dentist’s office than a restaurant. But inside, bright flags, fabrics and alebrijes, the little wooden carvings of fantastical spirit animals that the restaurant is named after, fill the space. Casual cafe tables dot the dining room and patio, and stools line the bar. On a recent Sunday at lunchtime, the crowd was a mixture of families stopping by for lunch after church in their Sunday best and football fans donning their jerseys ahead of the afternoon NFL game. Kids sipped from jars of creamy horchata while adults decided between an earthy and warming cup of Cafe de Olla, served in earthenware mugs and refilled from tea kettles, or a margarita. For those looking for something in between, try the Baileys Carajillo, a boozy coffee creation made with Liquor 43 and espresso, topped with a swirl of whipped cream. At midday, both the brunch and lunch menus are available. The former is filled with sweet options such as French toast topped with dulce de leche and plantains or a concha version with ice cream, as well as savory plates of chilaquiles and hearty breakfast burritos. The lunch menu skews savory with tacos, enchiladas, tostadas and chiles rellenos making an appearance. The food here is Oaxaca-style and packed with chiles and spices that add layers of flavor to each dish. Across the menu, many of the plates include a side of nopalito, or cactus paddle salad and are doused with mole, perhaps the most famous Oaxacan staple. Alebrijes serves two varieties of the rich sauce. The black mole is sweet and intense with a hint of licorice flavor. The red mole, only different in color to the very discerning eye, is a little more savory with a gently spicy kick. Both are thick, rich, delicious and sure to spoil your white shirt forever. We tried the black mole served over chips as part of the Chilaquiles Divorciados. The plate includes a tender ribeye steak and two eggs, both cooked to the customer’s liking, and mole-slathered chilaquiles. The steak was soft and satisfy- ingly salty, the perfect savory companion to the sweet black mole. We tried the red mole in one of the lunch items, the mole burrito. This hearty wrap is filled with rice, black beans and a choice of meats. We opted for the cecina pork which is marinated with chiles until it turns a deep orange. The whole thing was smothered in warming red mole and sprinkled with cotija cheese and pickled red onion. Definitely a job for a knife and fork, this burrito makes for messy fun any time of day. So clear your calendar, make sure you have enough time to not stress about the wait and be prepared to sink into one of the best moles in town. Alebrijes Cafe & Grill 4900 N. Litchfield Road, Bldg. B, Litchfield Park The mole, which comes in red or black versions, is used in many dishes at Alebrijes Cafe & Grill. Here, the red smothers a hearty burrito. (Photo by Tirion Boan) ▼ Food & Drink
