28 Feb 23rd–March 1st, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | music | cafe | film | culTuRe | NighT+Day | feaTuRe | NeWs | OPiNiON | feeDBacK | cONTeNTs | carbonara ($34). The square chitarra noodles are made with grano arso, or burnt wheat flour, which creates a visually exciting black color.The dish is further jazzed up with candied pancetta, garlic mudicca, and a dollop of uni, or the edible portion of spiky sea urchin. A study in balance, this pasta emerged as the favorite dish of the night, thanks to its blend of textures and complementary flavors. The noodles offered nearly imper- ceptible smoky, nutty notes, ideally matched by sweet yet smoky pops of diced pancetta. The uni literally melts on the tongue, bringing a whiff of ocean brine and a buttery element. The server really sold the Vodka ($32) pasta dish, explaining that the tangy, retro-style tomato cream sauce is a hot ticket in the culinary world these days, and she’s confident Osso’s is the best. It definitely could be, due to the complexity and richness of the sauce delivered on the ideal vessel of paccheri, a tube-shaped pasta, but it wasn’t as thrilling as the carbonara. And it was topped with slices of prosciutto that gummed up into a heap in the sauce. Despite detailsthis new restaurant will no doubt work through, this was a magical meal that showcased imagination, quality, and craft. The drinks list was typically thoughtful, like Osso’s other locations, and heavy on Italian wines and spirits. The servers were knowledgeable, patient, and seamless; it’s obvious the chef knows how to attract the best of the best, from the front of the house to the back. No matter whether you want to drop in simply for a plate of Osso’s famous octopus and a glass of wine or indulge in a multi- plate romp that’ll whisk you away to the Old World countryside for an evening, Piccolo Virtù will deliver something spectacular. Piccolo Virtu 7240 East Main Street, Scottsdale piccolovirtu.com Tour de Flat New Belgium cans Tempe bike and beer party. BY SARA CROCKER A fter 15 pedal-powered parades and beer fests in Tempe, New Belgium Brewing Co. has canceled Tour de Fat in the desert. Instead, the brewery known for Voodoo Ranger IPA will focus its Tour de Fat events in Fort Collins, Colorado, and Asheville, North Carolina, where its brewing operations are located. The event, part bike parade featuring thousands of costumed cyclists, part party with live music and plenty of beer, supports nonprofit organizations that focus on making communities bikeable. In lieu of this year’s event, which had been slated for April 8, New Belgium says it will donate $10,000 to its Tempe nonprofit part- ners, Tempe Bicycle Action Group, Bike Saviours, and Central Arizona Mountain Bike Patrol, and “remain[s] committed to assisting them through our grant process,” according to a release announcing the end of the event. New Belgium estimates it has raised more than $5 million supporting local bike nonprofits in the 23 years of Tour de Fat. Locally, New Belgium estimates it has provided more than $850,000 over its 15 years to Tempe bike-related nonprofits, according to John Yeast, the brewery’s event and experiential marketing coordinator. Learning of the cancellation was disap- pointing, but expected, Central Arizona Mountain Bike Patrol President Daniel Ryan says via email. Tempe was the first city to host a Tour de Fat post-pandemic, with the event returning in 2022 after being paused for 2020 and 2021. It was the sole city on the tour outside of Fort Collins and Asheville that year and in 2019, down from 33 cities in 2017. Ryan teased that the Tempe bike partners will be putting their heads together “to create something new and fun in 2024.” According to Tempe spokesperson TaiAnna Yee, the city of Tempe “love[s] any and all events where we celebrate biking, so we are sad to see it go. It raises awareness of bicycling, it makes Tempe a destination.” But, Yee also notes that Tempe has a strong biking culture — one that the city and those nonprofit partners will continue to promote, including the Tour de Tempe event on April 2. While it won’t feature any beer, the free morning event will encourage folks to get out and ride. As far as events from New Belgium, “nothing can quite replace Tour de Fat,” Yeast says. “But at this time, we don’t have any other event planned to replace Tour de Fat in the Phoenix metro area.” Thought from p 26 Chef Gio Osso recently opened his third restaurant in Scottsdale. Heather Gill Photography
