26 Feb 23rd–March 1st, 2023 phoenixnewtimes.com phoenix new Times | music | cafe | film | culTuRe | NighT+Day | feaTuRe | NeWs | OPiNiON | feeDBacK | cONTeNTs | FULL BAR! 2003 Bills of $35 or more Dine-In or Take Out Not Including Combinations Dinner Only Expires 12/31/23 Closed On Tuesdays $5 OFF 2050 N. Alma School Rd., #36 • 480.857.4188 Food for Thought A first taste of chef Gio Osso’s newest Scottsdale restaurant. BY GERI KOEPPEL G io Osso is celebrated as one of the Valley’s top fine dining chefs thanks to his flagship restaurant, Virtù Honest Craft in Scottsdale. His less formal spin-off just up the street, Pizzeria Virtù, has been a hit as well, serving wood- fired pizza, pasta, and arguably the Valley’s best burrata dish. Now, he’s scored a hat trick with his latest concept, Piccolo Virtù, which opened in December 2022. This latest restaurant is meant to be a kind of middle sister to the first two. While Virtù Honest Craft offers a three-course prix fixe menu with optional supplements and the pizzeria has a more casual and approachable air, Piccolo Virtù beckons to people who’d like to share a few à la carte plates but still be wowed. That said, the dishes range from dainty crudo appetizers to an entire suckling pig. An order can be configured as a light meal for two or a feast for a group, but no matter what comes out, the ingredients, flavors, and presentations are sublime. The menu changes frequently to keep things inter- esting for repeat customers as well as staff. This is literally food for thought — the dishes make diners ponder what they’re eating and truly appreciate the care that goes into them, from sourcing to execution. The restaurant is located in the heart of Old Town Scottsdale, across the street from the Rusty Spur Saloon and set back behind shops selling $10 sunglasses and hats. However, it’s tucked away from the tour- ists-and-clubs chaos, with a serene, expan- sive patio featuring black metal chairs and white manufactured stone tabletops. While the patio seats 44, the indoor dining room holds only 24 seats and eight barstools, along with a totally open kitchen. On a recent visit, dinner included a salad, appetizers, and a couple of pasta dishes. The 55-ounce Bistecca Fiorentina ($295), the whole Branzino ($135), or Costoletta (veal chop, $62) were a little beyond our budget, but for anyone plan- ning a splurge meal, this would be the place to go, based on these first tastes. The adventure began with a Branzino ($23) crudo in a warm sesame oil broth topped with crispy shallots. The delicate fish was enveloped by the slightly nutty bath and accented by a gentle oniony crunch. The crispy, airy homemade focaccia was the perfect vessel to soak up the sauce so that none went to waste. Also presented with the Branzino was the Vitello ($25), paper-thin slices of veal carpaccio with caper berries and tonnato — a popular Italian-style mayonnaise made with tuna. While the veal could’ve been a tad more rare, this was an admirable example of this traditional dish due to the marriage of silky meat bathed in creamy tonnato with a subtle kiss of fish. The sour- ness of the capers added a welcome dimen- sion without being overpowering. Next up was the Radicchio ($21), sturdy purplish leaves lined with sections of petite arance, a type of sweet orange, pecorino, and a smattering of mudicca or bread crumbs. The cheese’s earthy notes and slight saltiness danced well with the bitter- ness of the radicchio. The tang of the oranges offered citrusy notes and the bread crumbs provided texture, echoing the crunch of the leaves. Both pastas were luscious, but the better of the two we tried was Carbonara ’22, Osso’s take on spaghetti Piccolo Virtù’s Vitello with tonnato sauce. Geri Koeppel | CHOW BELLA | t Café >> p 28
