20 Feb 1st–Feb 7th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | the kind of developed flavor, blistered char and resilient chew that you only get from pizzaioli who are focused on the bread. But Fabio on Fire is as much a neighborhood trattoria as it is a pizzeria. Simple antipasti shine, particularly Ceschetti’s silky, fragrant house-made porchetta. His gnocchi are delicate and light and oft paired with rich, cheese-heavy sauces. And his fresh paste ripiene — such as veal- stuffed tortellaci in bright tomato sauce — or lasagne layered with besciamella and a thick, rich ragu are every bit as excellent as his pizzas. HAI NOON 7017 E. McDowell Road, Scottsdale James Beard Award-winning chef Nobuo Fukuda has made a triumphant return with Hai Noon. He left downtown Phoenix for Scottsdale and opened his latest restaurant inside the renovated hotel Sonder The Mariposa. The dining room and bar have a vintage charm with turquoise horseshoe-shaped booths, warm woods, exposed stone and macrame- wrapped lights. The taut but shareable menu leans into seafood, such as the tuna, seared and served with a punchy beetroot puree and pinot noir reduction, or the sea bream, which is cured, letting its brine and sweetness shine through. The land-based dishes are just as bright. The coconut curry lamb chops are bold and tender. The mushrooms, done in parchment with sake, soy, garlic butter and trottole pasta, are packed with umami. The cocktails likewise wow. The Honey Dew Me Rumchata, a rum-based drink, is playful and packed with melon flavor thanks to honeydew syrup and frozen melon balls. HAPA FOOD CO. 5235 E. Southern Ave., Mesa Considering the plate lunch’s popularity, you’d think the local Hawaiian scene wouldn’t be so overrun with chains. Standout independents in Phoenix are few, and Hapa Food Co. is a tremendous recent addition. Wildly popular, the menu at Hapa is short, and the lines are long. Load up your plate with popular favorites such as sweet, smoky kalbi that’s heavy with char, pitch-perfect ahi poke seasoned just right or fried chunks of chicken smothered in a sweet, garlicky sauce that’s the best kind of over-the-top. Stalking Hapa’s Instagram page for daily specials is a pro move. And be sure to save space for dessert. Plump malasadas, fried to order, are stuffed with thick vanilla custard or a sultry purple ube cream, and occasional specials such as long johns or coconut snow puffies make Hapa Food Company one of Phoenix’s standout purveyors of fried dough. HAPPY BAOS 66 S. Dobson Road, #112, Mesa Restaurants come and go from the food court inside Mekong Plaza in Mesa. But Happy Baos, a little eatery with its own space just off the main dining area, is a mainstay. This spot, as the name suggests, specializes in bao and dumplings. We’re partial to the satisfyingly chewy handmade dumplings, and you can try them all with the 20-piece dumpling combo that features five of each of the different fillings. This spot also offers plump steamed buns and soup-filled xiao long bao. Outside of the steamed and fried parcels, don’t miss the Dan Dan Noodles topped with crunchy peanuts or the fresh and savory cucumber salad. THE HIDDEN HOUSE 159 W. Commonwealth Ave., Chandler The Hidden House is in many ways true to its name. The unassuming house is tucked just off of the bustle of Arizona Avenue in downtown Chandler and could easily be missed. But, step through the iron gates and into what was once a cottage — brought back to life by restaurateurs Gavin Jacobs and Jackie Hall — and you’ll find a unique American bistro. Though the house is only about 800 square feet, the restaurant is expansive thanks to an added hangar. But, when the weather’s just right, the courtyard is the spot to dine. The kitchen takes classic bistro dishes and often gives them a twist, such as the Peri Peri Lamb Backstrap. The Top 100 Restaurants from p 19 Happy Baos (Photo courtesy of Happy Baos) >> p 22
