22 Feb 1st–Feb 7th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | tender cut is infused with African and Mexican flavors in the black garlic peri peri and a mole negro and is served with roasted squash and chickpeas. The Hidden House’s drinks program is as extensive as its food menu, offering the same cocktail prowess as its sibling bar, The Brickyard. HODORI 1116 S. Dobson Road, Mesa Korean food in Phoenix has gone on a helluva run over the past decade. We’ve watched a smattering of barbecue and soondubu joints explode into a variety of culinary subgenres. But through it all (plus a change of ownership), jack-of-all-trades Hodori continues to stand tall as the grand dame of our Korean restaurant scene. It’s a casual, independent joint with brusque service, zero frills and straight-up good food for all. Want something sizzly crisp? Fried mandu or a sour, blistered kimchi jun will hit the spot. Seeking a comforting soup? Go with a clean, silky ox knee soup or any of Hodori’s excellent soondubu variants. Something noodly? Slippery jap chae or cold, spicy bibim guksu. Feeling fishy? Spicy seared squid or delicious braised black cod. And if you’re feeding an army? Go with bosam, a titanic helping of pork belly wrapped in fresh cabbage, or a massive cauldron of budae jungol — “army stew” — loaded with just about everything, including ramen noodles and spam. HOLA CABRITO 4835 S. 16th St. Goopy quesabirria may rule TikTok and Instagram, but if you follow the true fans in South Phoenix, they’ll lead you to Hola Cabrito. Since 2011, Maria Lopez has been slinging the birria de chivo she learned from her mother in León, Guanajuato. Rather than the drip and the ooze, this classic style of birria is all about the goat. Seasoned and slow-roasted in banana leaves, the succulent adobo-spiked meat boasts a rich flavor and gentle gaminess that plays beautifully across multiple formats. You can get it swimming in crystal-clear consommé, ready to be perked up with crisp vegetables and herbs and a splash of smoky salsa. You can load the meat onto thick fresh-pressed tortillas to make some mean tacos. But our favorite order is the birria tatemada — scattered and pressed on the griddle along with a bit of fat ladled off the top of the consommé, lending a robust, sizzling crisp to the tender goat meat. LAS 15 SALSAS RESTAURANT OAXAQUEÑO 722 W. Hatcher Road Las 15 Salsas is a Sunnyslope gem serving exceptional Oaxacan food and delicious cocktails. Its colorful patio, complete with twinkling string lights, only adds to the appeal. Start your meal with an order of memelas, or thin corn patties topped with cheese, or a Tamal Oaxaqueño with black mole and chicken folded in a banana leaf. The moles, as the name suggests, are not to be missed, and they come in black, green, yellow, red and Estofado, or stewed, styles. The drink menu includes many cocktails made with rare agave spirits, along with aguas frescas and hot drinks, including sweet and earthy Cafe de Olla. MIMI FORNO ITALIANO 3624 W. Baseline Road, #174 If you live in Laveen, you’ve probably heard of the outstanding neighborhood spot Mimi Forno Italiano. If you live elsewhere in metro Phoenix, this eatery is so worth the trip to the southwest Valley. The small restaurant often is bustling with couples on dates, friends catching up over pizza or locals stopping by for a quick snack at the bar. We recommend sampling multiple sections of the menu. Start with an order of Arancini, or fried risotto balls that are crispy and golden on the outside and creamy and rich inside. These baseball-sized treats are studded with mozzarella cubes and meat and served with a side of spicy tomato sauce. Next, dig into the pizza selection that includes both red and white options. The Contadina is an excellent vegetarian pie topped with artichokes, zucchini, eggplant and mushrooms, or satisfy the meat lovers in your group with the Top 100 Restaurants from p 20 Las 15 Salsas (Photo by Jackie Mercandetti) >> p 24
