26 Feb 1st–Feb 7th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | SUSHI NAKANO 4025 E. Chandler Blvd. This is what every neighborhood sushi restaurant should be, but precious few are. Leo Nakano was long a familiar face at Scottsdale’s Hiro Sushi, where he learned the craft from his father. But in 2018, the younger Nakano set out on his own, opening this tiny, unassuming joint in an Ahwatukee strip mall that slings some of the finest Edo-style sushi in town at a price point that’s an absolute steal for the quality. For a modest price bump over the mediocre Phoenix standard, Nakano offers a compact list of sashimi that’s meticulously sourced and cut, and nigiri that sagely highlights the quality of the rice, rather than treating it as a dull vehicle for the fish. Those who prefer American-style sushi will appreciate Nakano’s maki. But better yet, if you’re seeking something creative, catch him on a quiet night and ask for some of his signature nigiri, such as salmon with a thin sliver of pickled kombu or kuro-dai briefly cold-smoked before serving. TACOS VEGANOS 3301 E. Indian School Road If you typically avoid meat and other animal products, and you’ve lived in the Valley for any length of time, you’ve probably heard of Tacos Veganos. This spot often is recommended as a must-try for vegetarian and vegan diners. But carnivores won’t miss anything either. This Arcadia-area restaurant serves flavor-packed tacos, burritos and combo plates that are every bit as delicious as their meat-filled inspirations. Try the jackfruit quesabirria tacos topped with plant-based mozzarella for a veggie twist on a classically rich and greasy dish. This option has all of the flavor without any of the heartburn. We’re also fans of the hearty Arizona Burrito, which comes stuffed with rice, beans, “meat” of choice and french fries. Make sure to wash it all down with an agua fresca, or share a bucket of Modelos. THAILY’S 444 E. Chandler Blvd., Chandler It might be the size of a walk-in closet, but the unusual mix of Cambodian and Arabic cuisine at Thaily’s punches far above its square footage. Run since 2021 by wife and husband Thai and Lee Kambar (Thai-Lee’s … get it?), Thaily’s two signature cuisines tend to cross-pollinate less than they cohabitate, with Thai’s Cambodian fare comprising the lion’s share of the menu. Puffy fresh pita stuffed with lemongrass beef skewers makes for a fine sandwich, but digging into a dish such as salaw machu — a sour, fragrant Cambodian soup loaded with eggplant — is a wide-eyed moment for any food lover. Curried chicken, whether in the form of blistered, charred thighs or a rich coconut stew, is always an excellent choice. Salads, meaty and otherwise, are beauti- fully balanced and blistering hot. And the prahok ktiss — a funky Cambodian ground pork dip flavored with kroeung, makrut lime and fermented fish — is an absolute must, studded with diminutive pea-sized eggplant and served with a platter of fresh crudités for dipping and munching. TUMI 2.0 1245 W. Guadalupe Road, Mesa Oscar Graham has opened (and closed) more Peruvian restaurants in Phoenix than anyone else. But while he tends to pack up and move around town every few years, his menu remains a glowing introduction to one of the world’s most varied and vibrant natural fusion cuisines. Tumi 2.0 — Graham’s swan song, he says — brings him back to where it all began, to the space in Mesa that once housed Contigo Peru. There are Japanese- influenced ceviches, such as his signature “Orgia de Mariscos,” a school of raw fish swimming in citrus and pisco. Chaufa — Chinese-Peruvian influences — show up in dishes such as the stir-fried batons of steak in lomo saltado, or mounds of fried rice. Italian pokes its nose into tallarines verdes, dressed with pesto and nuts, or aji de gallina, a rich Peruvian chicken stew made with nuts, yellow chiles and Parmesan cheese. And few can spit-roast a chicken like Peru does. Graham’s is succulent and deftly seasoned, served with fried yuca and house hot sauces. Top 100 Restaurants from p 24 Tacos Veganos (Photo by Dominic Armato)
