20 Jan 18th–Jan 24th, 2024 phoenixnewtimes.com PHOENIX NEW TIMES | NEWS | FEATURE | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS & CULTURE | MUSIC | CONCERTS | CANNABIS | Brewery to Bar New neighborhood bar from O.H.S.O. to open in former Helton taproom. BY SARA CROCKER J ust a few months after Helton Brewing Co. was acquired by O.H.S.O. Brewery + Distillery, a new neighborhood bar and restaurant is moving in. The Starving Artist – a tavern with an emphasis on cocktails and the distilling side of O.H.S.O. – is set to open at the end of January, according to owner Jon Lane. With O.H.S.O.’s flagship restaurant and brewery just a few miles down Indian School Road, it was important to Lane to create a new experience. “We thought it’d be very confusing for guests, so we wanted to create a neigh- borhood bar,” Lane explains about how The Starving Artist came to be. “We really have never focused on our spirits … we wanted to have a more focal point on the bar, meaning a cocktail bar.” But, Lane says the aim is for The Starving Artist to be approachable, from the items served to their price point. “I go to neighborhood bars because I can go in there with a $20 bill, have a drink, have a snack,” he says. “We want to make sure that’s attainable for our neighborhood, that they’re able to stop by whenever they want and it not be a burden on their wallet.” What’s the vibe? The previously spartan Helton taproom will be transformed with quirkily repur- posed art (think thrifted pieces with updated, graffiti-like additions painted atop) created by Beth Jagielko, an artist who has previously painted murals at other O.H.S.O. locations. “The art is going to be really cool and funky,” Lane says. Customers can keep themselves entertained with darts, pool, video games and TVs to watch the game. There will also be a unique bartop with retro games like Wooly Willy embedded in it. Lane hopes the spot can fill a variety of diners’ needs, perfect for those grab- bing slices with their kids or a night out with friends to share small plates and a bottle of wine or cocktails. What’s on the menu? Lane describes the menu as “a little eclectic, from all over,” with a mix of snacks, sandwiches, salads and pizzas. O.H.S.O. recently hired Bruce Briere, who formerly worked at restaurants like North Italia and The Windsor, as the company’s culinary director, and he’s helming this menu. Although the food and drinks are still being finalized, Lane says some bites guests can expect are small plates of dolmas, garlic shrimp or whipped ricotta with chiltepin. Shareable items will include Korean beef nachos, cheese crisps and Southwest-style chicken dip. Available by the slice or a full pie, pizzas range from classics like cheese and pepperoni to those inspired by Vietnamese ingredients and tamales. Lane says the bar menu will include about 20 cocktails, along with roughly 20 beers on tap and a selection of wines. The mixed drinks will lean classic, but the team, led by bar manager Fiona Davison, will be able to put their own spin on things. Sips may include a yuzu sour, gin rickey and a maple old fashioned. As part of the acquisition of Helton, O.H.S.O. took over the building, brewing equipment and recipes of the former brewery. The move positions O.H.S.O. to become one of the largest independent brewers in the state. The brewhouse will continue to be used for producing O.H.S.O.’s craft beer. But, that’s not the primary focus for the bar and restaurant that sits in front of the brewery. The Starving Artist will serve familiar drinks, such as Miller High Life and High Noon hard seltzers, in addition to tipples that the brewer and distiller makes. While the O.H.S.O. team is at work putting together the final details and touches, Lane says he’s looking forward to debuting the new concept later this month. “It’s a comfortable bar you can come in any day,” he says. The Starving Artist Opening at the end of January 2144 E. Indian School Road Bar Bites Bar Cena brings rich Mediterranean flavors to north Scottsdale. BY NATASHA YEE N estled next to the acclaimed Hush Public House, tinted windows and a nondescript door lead to a dimly lit lounge with suede and leather seating, wooden tables and a bar with dark floral wallpaper. Ruggiero debuted Hush Public House in 2019 to rave reviews — the New Times named it the “Best New Restaurant” that year. He next opened Vanilla Gorilla, a craft beer bar, next door in late 2021, then Fire at Will, an upscale neighborhood eatery at Tatum and Shea boulevards, in November 2022. But Vanilla Gorilla poured its final pints in June 2023, making way for the most recent addition to Ruggiero’s Cast Iron Concepts group. Bar Cena came along in November 2023. Sprinkled with holiday decor, the space was subtly busy on a Thursday night in mid-December. One couple sat at the bar while a family occupied a table and two friends chatted over wine and small plates. The cocktail list runs the gamut from gin to tequila to vodka, and mocktails are also on the menu. What to imbibe in? The Nitro Espresso Martini and Ace High with Japanese whiskey, caught our eye. As did the Antidote, table side absinthe service, but it would have to wait for a wilder night. We went with the Dreamy Draw, made with a choice of mezcal or tequila, plus white rum, bell pepper, egg white, mango and grapefruit. The mezcal lent smoke while the grapefruit and mango added sweetness and the egg white, a playful foam. Two tiny peppers, good for nibbling between bites, garnished the drink. On the food menu, Bar Cena’s French, Spanish and Italian-inspired cuisine is different from that of its neighbor. The two spaces have separate kitchens that share some functionality, the server explained. A popover, Bar Cena’s take on bread and butter, is a great way to kick off the dining experience. Golden brown on the outside with a flaky and hollow interior, the best part was the accompanying cacio e pepe butter. Whole peppercorns mingled with the cheesy butter for little bursts of flavor among the richness. Next came the mussels escabeche, a classic Spanish dish. The mussels sat in a heap of pickled carrots, onions and jala- peños alongside mustard aioli. Both tangy and spicy, the dish showcased its flavors impeccably while the accompanying grilled Noble bread gave it a crunch. The tartare, also served with Noble bread, arrived just as the mussels dwin- dled. Beef fat aioli gave it a heft while capers lent zing. We spooned it onto the crusty bread and enjoyed. But the star of the night had yet to arrive. The duck confit landed on the table in all of its glory: one crispy leg served over baby arugula, carrots and delicate beluga lentils surrounded by verjus, an acidic juice made with unripened grapes. The meat was salty, savory and so tender it fell apart. We wished for platefuls of the deli- cacy but shared the lone duck leg reluc- tantly, relishing every last bite. At the end, a bit of sweetness was in order. The Billionaire’s Shortbread, small buttery cookies with gooey caramel and chocolate ganache, resembled an elevated, slightly salty Twix. The meal was moderately filling, though a few more dishes would satiate the seriously hungry. But one thing is for sure: we will be back for the duck confit, and maybe some absinthe to boot. Bar Cena 14202 N. Scottsdale Road, #165, Scottsdale barcenascottsdale.com The Starving Artist will replace the restaurant and taproom space that formerly housed Helton Brewing Co. (Photo by Chris Malloy) Bar Cena’s version of a bread course includes a popover with cacio e pepe butter (right). We started with that and the mussels escabeche (left). (Photo by Natasha Yee) ▼ Food & Drink