25 December 5-11, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | Month XX–Month XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | ▼ CORAL GABLES THE GABLES GETS A NEW ALL-DAY CAFÉ Behind a pink metal door on an unassuming stretch of S. Le Jeune Road, a charming new café has quietly taken root. Tina in the Gables is the latest project from the same team be- hind Miami Slice and La Latina — two Miami food spots known for drawing long lines and loyal fans. Chef and co-owner Alberto J. Zanetti, known for his creative takes on New York- style pizza and Venezuelan arepas, brings his signature style to this more intimate concept. Tina feels like stepping into someone’s living room, with its minimalist vibe and sweet little touches like fresh flowers and a wall of hooks for hanging your bag. The Venezuelan influence shows up subtly but meaningfully. A bowl of “Toronto” chocolates greets you at the entrance, and the menu nods to La Latina’s famed arepas with elevated versions like the “Coral Queen,” stuffed with rotisserie chicken and avocado salad. But Tina isn’t just about arepas. It’s a café-diner hybrid with a bread-cen- tric menu that ranges from hearty sand- wiches to rotisserie meats to nostalgic sweets. The soft shell crab sandwich served on a Jap- anese milk bread bun with tropical mango pico de Gallo already feels like an instant clas- sic. Brunch purists might go for the sunny- side duck, featuring duck eggs with smoked duck breast “bacon,” pâté, and country loaf. Lunch gets heartier with the rotisserie section: Think Picanha, a slow-roasted Angus steak served with a watercress salad or half a roasted organic chicken with greens. On the sweeter side, there’s French toast made with thick brioche, a square of salted butter, and a maple syrup pool. Or tap into some PB&J nostalgia with their buttered country loaf slathered in organic peanut butter and St. Dalfour jam. As for drinks, a sleek Marzocco machine pumps out espresso drinks, including the sig- nature “Gables Café Crème,” a shaken iced espresso with thick foamy milk dusted with cinnamon. Cold-pressed juices round out the beverage menu for those looking for some- thing lighter. For now, Tina operates on limited hours — Wednesday through Sunday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.— and it’s walk-in only. But judging by its lineage and early buzz, it won’t stay a low-key neighborhood secret for long. Coral Gables, consider yourself warned. Tina in the Gables. 4700 S. Le Jeune Rd.; Coral Gables; tinainthegables.com. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. MICHELLE MUSLERA ▼ WYNWOOD PASTA QUIETLY REDEFINES WYNWOOD’S DINING SCENE In a year when Miami has seen a surge of Ital- ian eateries and pasta joints opening doors in Miami, the mere mention of another might prompt eye rolls. Yet Pasta, a quietly launched spot in a less-trafficked corner of Wynwood, is flipping the script. Open for just six weeks, it’s already prov- ing to be a standout — winning people over with its focus on craft, quality, and prices. The story begins with chefs Janice Buras- chi and Juan Manuel Umbert, a Peruvian couple who own and operate Pasta. Their first iteration in Lima became a beloved insti- tution before they set their sights on Miami. You’ll find both of them in the thick of it every night — Janice finishing dishes with gener- ous showers of aged Parmigiano Reggiano, while Umbert expedites orders with calm precision. What sets Pasta apart is how much they make from scratch. We’re talking creamy stracciatella, fresh ricotta, spicy ’nduja, sour- dough bread, all the desserts, and, of course, their signature handmade pastas. Most after- noons, you’ll spot Buraschi at the front win- dow, rolling and shaping pasta dough with the kind of focus that stops people in their tracks. This level of care isn’t just rare in Mi- ami; it’s almost unheard of. Everything on the menu reflects that dedication, and it’s a big part of what makes this spot feel so special. True to its name, Pasta is all about — you guessed it — pasta. The menu centers on more than a dozen handmade noodles, com- plemented by a handful of starters and house- made desserts. Despite the premium quality of the ingredients, prices are surprisingly ap- proachable, with most main courses priced between $20 and $25, which is practically a steal in a town where pasta often ventures north of $30. The space itself reflects Wynwood’s en- ergy: high ceilings, exposed ductwork, and contemporary design softened by warm rat- tan accents. At its heart is the open kitchen, where seating along the bar offers a front-row view of the action. Watching Buraschi deftly heat a knife to slice gooey cheesecake or as- semble plates with almost telepathic coordi- nation alongside her team feels like a performance. And then there’s the food. The | TASTE TEST | ▼ Café Tina in the Gables photo Tina in the Gables is a café-diner hybrid with a bread-centric menu that ranges from hearty sandwiches to rotisserie meats to nostalgic sweets.
