11 September 28 - OctOber 4, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | Make Yourself at Home Zaika went from at-home dinner parties to one of Miami’s best Indian restaurants. BY MICHELLE MUSLERA E ight years ago, three roommates who shared a deep love for the dishes of their native India de- cided to pursue a passion project. That dream would take them from weekend gatherings and casual dinner parties to the creation of Zaika, which today stands as one of Miami’s most esteemed In- dian restaurants. Drawing inspiration from their shared ex- perience working at the prestigious Taj Ma- hal Hotel Group — a chain of luxury resorts spanning world-renowned landmarks — friends and business partners Manoj Patel, Avanish Shrivastava, and Shivashankar Mala- banti tell New Times they found their true calling as restaurateurs. The establishment that got its start as a humble ode to their home country has since grown into a beloved neighborhood spot in North Miami. “Back then, we were all working in the hospitality industry in Miami,” says Patel. “We started hosting dinner parties at our house for fun, cooking our favorite dishes from back home. When friends started asking for more frequent events, even offering to pay for them and bring guests along, we realized we had something special on our hands.” Together, the trio opened Zaika, a modest venture that quickly became known as a neighborhood gem for its straightforward take on regional Indian fare. Now, eight years later, the thriving 90-seat restaurant has since expanded to include a second location in Weston, with plans for a new establishment in Key Largo in early 2024. Step inside the original North Miami res- taurant, however, and you’ll feel right at home. The simple, earth-hued interior pro- vides a relaxed backdrop for enjoying a satiat- ing meal where each dish takes center stage. The menu has a predominant emphasis on Northern Indian fare, renowned for its bold spices and rich, butter-laden fare. But dishes also venture into the subtler flavors of India’s southern staples, notable for their use of co- conut and curry leaves. “Zaika means ‘a sense of taste,’ and that’s exactly what we aimed to capture with our menu,” adds Patel. Meals here can begin only one way: with the housemade garlic naan. It arrives from the kitchen piping hot, thin, smokey flatbread topped with zesty cilantro that is best when used to ladle saucy dishes from plate to mouth. Take the Zaika malabar chicken, juicy morsels of meat served in a luscious coconut sauce adorned with curry leaves, red chili, and mustard grains. The more deeply- flavored lamb roganjosh, slow-cooked in a tomato base infused with ginger, is just as good. Likewise, for the yellow lentil dal, a richly textured stew topped with a paste of butter, garlic, and spices. The tandoori clay oven, integral to Indian cuisine, works its magic on an array of heavily spiced, yogurt-marinated proteins, all cooked on a skewer until charred and served sizzling at the table. Standouts include the tangy pan- eer skewer, cubes of homemade cow’s cheese interlaced with green peppers, as well as the juicy and tender lamb seekh kebab. For a sweet finale, diners should not miss Zaika’s take on the traditional gulab jamun, a duo of delicate doughnut spheres steeped in rose water syrup and crowned with a single slice of almond. The sweet treats arrive piping hot, their interiors beautifully absorbing the syrup, resulting in a soft, tender texture that’s irresistible no matter how full you might be. There is no saying no to just one more bite. Reflecting on the success of the restaurant, Patel attributes it to the unwavering commit- ment of the proprietors, grounded in consis- tency and fueled by their genuine passion for the arts of gastronomy and hospitality. “We’re really strict about keeping our reci- pes and preparation methods authentic, paying attention to every little detail,” sums up Patel. “It all comes from our love for the food, and the experience we want to create for our guests.” Zaika. 2176 NE 123rd St., North Miami; 786- 409-5187; zaikamiami.com. Tuesday through Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. ▼ Cafe Photo by Michelle Muslera Zaika’s malabari chicken in coconut sauce and lamb roganjosh in a tomato base infused with ginger. Call It a Comeback Beloved Miracle Mile restaurant Ortanique returns for a limited time. BY NICOLE DANNA I f you miss the Mediterranean mussels cooked in Red Stripe beer, coconut-curry bouilla- baisse, or jerk-spiced double pork chop from longtime favorite — and now shuttered — Orta- nique, a new limited-time pop-up will let you sa- vor its food one last time. This week, Ortanique chef/co-owner Cindy Hutson and her longtime partner, Delius Shirley, announced they’ll be getting back to business with a limited-time revival of their iconic Coral Gables restaurant Ortanique on the Mile. Slated to launch later this month, the pop-up will take over the former QP Tapas space inside MKT Kitchen in Coral Gables, with reservations avail- able on a first-come, first-serve basis. It’s been more than 30 years since the couple first made headlines for Hutson’s unique cooking style at Norma’s on the Beach, the restaurant she and Shirley opened in 1994 off Lincoln Road. The tiny establishment was known for its Jamaican and Caribbean-inspired fare, with Shirley at the front of the house and Hutson helming the kitchen. When the couple opened Ortanique in Coral Gables, a larger kitchen and more staff allowed Hutson to expand the menu, combining a love for various cuisines inspired by the duo’s travels and infusing it with her unique flare. The establish- ment closed in July 2021 due to the pandemic. “Since we closed, our fans — especially our die-hard regulars — kept asking us if there would ever be a chance for them to have a favorite dish or get a little bit of that Ortanique magic,” shares Hutson. “After much work, that time is now.” When the couple opened their Coral Gables restaurant, they wanted a name that reflected the ethos behind the menu. Hutson says she chose the word “ortanique” — the name for the hybrid cross between a Seville orange and the wild Jamaican unique. “They’re juicy, sweet, and tangy,” Hutson ex- plains. “It’s the essence of a grafted fruit that takes all these different flavors and turns it into one amazing flavor experience.” It’s the same way Hutson describes her cook- ing at the restaurant of the same name: a mesh- ing of ethnic cuisines into a singularly exceptional dining experience. “My theory on the menu was to be ethnically and seasonally driven. It meant there was always something people could relate to on the menu, no matter where they were from,” explains Hutson. When the two-month-long pop-up opens later this month, expect to find many of Hutson’s best-known “neighborhood favorites” — Orta- nique classics like those beer-infused mussels, a West Indian-inspired Cornish game hen, braised short rib with Ca- ribbean butter beans and truffle gnocchi, or but- terflied yellowtail snapper escovitch with malanga mash and scotch bonnet pickled veggies. Expect the pop-up menu to change fre- quently, says Hutson, each night offering a differ- ent series of Ortanique hits. Dinner service will follow a three-course format, beginning with an amuse-bouche followed by a selection of appe- tizers, entrées, and desserts. Just like at Ortanique, expect the chef to cre- ate various one-off specials, be it a soup, salad, meat, or seafood dish. A carefully curated cock- tail menu will be available, including Ortanique’s famous mojito, as well as select beers and wines. When asked if there are plans to reopen Orta- nique, Hutson — currently a consulting chef for Cerveceria La Tropical and the Miami Cancer In- stitute — was ambivalent. “This limited-engagement pop-up is more a tribute than a formal relaunch. As much as I miss the relationships and making people happy with our food and hospitality, I don’t know if I’m ready to do that just yet,” says Hut- son. “But who knows? Maybe I will. Let’s see how this pop-up goes.” The Ortanique pop-up launches on Thursday, September 28, and will be available on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings until Saturday, De- cember 16. Guests can choose from two seatings per night, each limited to 40 guests with a two- hour time limit. The first seating can be reserved between 6 and 6:30 p.m., the second between 8:15 and 8:45 p.m. Each seating features a prix- fixe menu priced at $98 per person (including tax but excluding bar and gratuity). Ortanique Pop-Up. Thursday through Satur- day from September 28 through December 16, at 1831 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables; 305-458- 8422; instagram.com/ortaniqueonthemile. [email protected] “FANS KEPT ASKING US IF THERE WOULD EVER BE A CHANCE FOR THEM TO HAVE A FAVORITE DISH.”
