11 September 26 - OctOber 2, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | Month XX–Month XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | Sustainability Is Sexy Two Coconut Grove restaurants are pioneering the sustainable dining space in Miami. BY RACHEL COSTA I n less than five years, Miami-based sis- ter restaurants Krüs Kitchen and Los Félix have proven their exemplary com- mitment to their customers, ethos, and sustainability practices set them apart. This steadfast and unwavering commit- ment to sustainability has earned both res- taurants a Michelin Green Star — the only restaurants in the state of Florida to receive this honor. Los Félix also achieved its Mi- chelin Star for the third consecutive year, making it one of only 12 restaurants in the United States to have both a Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star. The Michelin Green Star is awarded every year to restau- rants that uphold outstanding sustainable and eco-friendly culinary practices, including reducing waste throughout the supply chain and working directly with like-minded sup- pliers and vendors. Many of these restaurants also collaborate with farmers and growers who practice regenerative farming, ensuring they use the freshest and most seasonal in- gredients. And Krüs Kitchen and Los Félix do just that. Although these accomplishments are tre- mendous, these restaurants are quaint, invit- ing, and meticulous, with each ingredient and detail carefully shining in a way that is unpre- tentious and grounded — characteristics that are usually hard to find in Miami. With Los Félix turning three and Krüs Kitchen turning four along Main Highway in the charming heart of Coconut Grove, co- founder Josh Hackler of Grassfed Culture Hospitality and Executive Chef Sebastian Vargas spoke to New Times to reflect on the past few years, from pandemic beginnings to their latest achievements. Krüs Kitchen opened at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic as a takeout-only res- taurant serving sandwiches and healthy bowls in the heart of Coconut Grove. “We were sort of scouting Miami and starting Grassfed Culture, and with our first restaurant, there was no other neighborhood that I wanted to be in,” Hackler tells New Times. “I love the history of the Grove. It’s a historic neighborhood. A lot of families have international backgrounds here, so it’s really internationally cultured. Also, this sort of downtown vibe offset from a huge metropolis city like Miami is kind of magical.” Soon, as the pandemic wore off, the res- taurant slowly evolved into the intimate and seasonal restaurant it is today. Then, its sister restaurant, Los Félix, came into the picture. While the restaurants have different con- cepts, both have sustainability at their core. Sustainability is a term that can easily be tossed around; however, Vargas and Hackler are very serious and intentional about how they can apply this concept in their restaurants. “I think sustainability for us is really sort of at the core of what we do,” says Hackler. “In terms of how we make decisions, how we think about the products that we’re putting into the menu, the food that we’re serving, the oils and the fats that we’re using, and our waste — like the glass bottles that are being recycled and replenished in South Florida beaches. It’s also how we’re thinking about giving back to the community — supporting the community in terms of the farmers we work with and the fishermen we work with.” Vargas complements this argument with how their efforts not only make the restau- rant better but can also affect the world. This is why when choosing providers, not only do they choose local ones, but they also look at how the practices of others are sus- tainably impacting their surroundings. Being local isn’t enough. “We’re all very much aware of how climate change can affect our agricul- ture, our oceans, our mountains — our everything,” says Var- gas. “I think sustainability, for me, is how we individually are putting our little grain of rice into the bigger picture. It’s not just about sup- porting organic farms — you have to think about a little more than that. Truly, you’re supporting their practices and lifestyles to create an ecosystem. For instance, Tiny Farm is in the middle of Homestead, and it’s creat- ing a little ecosystem for better air quality for the wildlife that is so vital for all of us. I’m not just supporting the local fisherman because he’s getting local fish, but I’m supporting the fact that he’s not dragging huge nets through- out the coast of Florida and the Florida Keys or destroying coral reefs — instead, they’re taking care of the ecosystem of the ocean.” Notable partners of both restaurants in- clude Tiny Farm, Gratitude Farms, Natoora, and a micro local farmer who plants a few herbs in his backyard around the corner of the restaurants — we’re not even kidding. “A couple of years back, he just knocked on our doors,” Vargas recalls warmly. “He is just doing it all out of his backyard, and we’ve devel- oped fun little herbs and things to finish off dishes because he is doing it right with so much care and intention, using great seeds and soils.” Other sustainable efforts include the com- plete elimination of seed oils while working with companies like Zero Acre Farms and sourcing raw dairy from Amish family farms in Pennsylvania. “That is a long-term sustainability effort, Hackler says in regards to the raw dairy. “Peo- ple care — it’s not just a health food trend any- more,” says Hackler. “How can we incorporate those things into the way that restaurants ac- tually intentionally buy things and buy their ingredients? At the end of the day, they have a massive responsibility of feeding people. A great resource is Seed Oil Scout; the app is su- per fun, straight-up, and blue verified.” (Both Krüs Kitchen and Los Félix pass with flying colors on the app, by the way.) While the restaurants are highly rated and have collected respectable accolades from the Michelin Guide, its approach remains com- fortable. Perhaps that’s exactly why it works so well in the community. “None of this is done for accolades,” says Vargas. “None of this is done to make our res- ervations harder or to make it impossible to come. We are here, everything is done out of love, the coherency of our thoughts and way of life, and bridging that into our concepts.” The latest menu venture for Krüs includes more seasonal changes. Vargas recommends the crudo made with red oxalis granita, beet- root ponzu, avocado, and lemongrass oil. “It’s a fun play on temperatures, and it’s a fun play on presentation,” he explains. “It’s an awe- some interpretation of what is local and what is seasonal at the moment.” Hackler’s favorite dish on the menu at Krüs is the grilled scallops served with Eng- lish peas, pickled green almond, egg yolk emulsion, and hazelnut. Other highlights in- clude the tagliatelle made with grass-fed ox- tail, Meyer lemon, and smoked beef heart; the day’s catch with a one-week mushroom bear- naise and grilled mushroom ragu; and the smoked coconut rice with a creamy saffron custard, grilled colossal crab, and trout roe. Along with the menu, Krüs’ space and at- mosphere make for the perfect date-night gem. “I’ve seen some double dates go great here,” says Hackler about Krüs. “I love the double date dynamic. The restaurant, the menus, the style — it’s really made for shar- ing. You know, the idea that you can get a lot of things amongst a group of four to share. It’s just an awesome place to really dive into the natural wine list, cocktail list, and the menu for a double date or to bring a first date.” Sustainability is sexy, by the way. Krüs Kitchen. 3413 Main Hwy., Miami; 786- 518-3998; kruskitchen.com. Los Félix. 3413 Main Hwy., Miami; 786- 391- 1598; losfelixmiami.com. [email protected] ▼ Café Krüs Kitchen photo Josh Hackler is in the center and to his right is Sebastian Vargas with some of their partner-farmers, including Roberto Grossman of Tiny Farm. “YOU’RE SUPPORTING THEIR PRACTICES AND LIFESTYLES TO CREATE AN ECOSYSTEM.”
