24 September 21-27, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | stays like charbroiled oysters, chargrilled prawns, and vegan paella. 104 NE Second Ave., Miami; 786-717-6711; niukitchen.com Nossa Omakase Under certain circumstances, entrusting a $375 multicourse dinner to a complete stranger represents good value. Such is the case at Sebastian Labno and Astrid Ramirez’s Nossa Omakase in Miami Beach, a reserva- tion-only restaurant — the name borrows the Portuguese word for wow — that marries Japanese tradition with Magic City culture and its attendant Latin influences. Even if you don’t opt for omakase, any evening at Nossa begins with a welcome cocktail in the space’s dimly illuminated lounge before you’re ush- ered to the main dining room, whose focal point is a plush circular sushi bar where ev- ery seat is the best in the house. Here, Labno holds the spotlight, offering a theatrical thrill as he finishes plates before your eyes. The menu changes frequently, but you’ll always find a favorite in the “Shokupan Sando,” a rich, golden-yellow Japanese jidori egg yolk between two slices of Japanese milk bread topped with fresh-shaved truffles and a dol- lop of caviar. No wonder the Michelin Guide’s ’22 debut included a star for Nossa. Wow! 1600 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-539- 9711; www.nossaomakase.com Off Site Taquiza’s Steve Santana and beer maven Adam Darnell (formerly of Boxelder) have opened a restaurant that’s utterly unpreten- tious. Off Site has no celebrity name tied to it, no velvet rope, and only one goal: to serve the best comfort food (and beer) in Miami. The sole item on the menu when the place opened in 2021 was a perfectly turned-out fried chicken sandwich made with thigh meat and served on a bun with lettuce and mayo — that and the partners’ “Super Good” lager. The menu has expanded (slightly) to include burgers, housemade hot dogs, smoked chicken wings, and a smattering of specials. If you live nearby, you’re lucky enough to call this Little River gem your neighborhood hangout. It’s the perfect place to grab a bite with friends or salve body and soul after a bad day — a fried chicken sandwich and a beer here is the edible equivalent of a hug. 8250 NE Second Ave., Miami; 786-360-4237; off- site.miami Old Greg’s Pizza During the pandemic, Greg Tetzner and Jackie Richie started making pizzas from home. Their little project turned into a legit- imate business after many restaurant-indus- try peeps stamped their approval. No longer a side hustle, Old Greg’s has its own Design District shop, with Tetzner baking as many pies as he and his team can handle. What makes these pies superior is the square sour- dough crust, crunchy on the outside but light on the inside. The specialty pizza se- lection includes the “corn on corn on corn,” with creamed corn, mozzarella, and Parme- san cheese, polenta, chili corn crisps, and chives. Old Greg’s also offers round pies, hoagies, chicken wings, and a smattering of specials. It’s all excellent — just make sure you remember to order whatever you thought you wanted when you came in. 3620 NE Second Ave., Miami; 866-653-4734; www.oldgregspizza.com Orno Niven Patel opened Orno at the Thesis Hotel in Coral Gables in late 2021. The space is an ideal setting for his culinary artistry, from the stunning dining room filled with greenery and accented by pale pinks and gold tones to the large, green-tiled wood-burning oven that serves as the focal point of the open kitchen. Here, Patel and executive chef Josh Elliott prepare quality meats and sustainable seafood. For Patel, the restaurant is a return to his fine-dining roots and a chance to show- case the vegetables he grows at his farm, Ran- cho Patel. 1350 S. Dixie Highway, Coral Gables; 305-667-5611; thesishotelmiami. com/taste/orno Phuc Yea Phuc Yea is a grand 110-seater filled with the sounds of ’90s hip-hop and the scent of Viet- nam’s ubiquitous fish sauce. That irresistible combo earned Cesar Zapata and Ani Mein- hold’s Upper East Side mainstay a Michelin Bib Gourmand designation in 2022. Try the green papaya salad, in which chilies, garlic, dried shrimp and squid, and Vietnamese co- riander are pulverized into a potent paste that’s tossed with toothsome papaya threads, carrots, and sweet cherry tomatoes, then crowned with banana blossom ribbons, shal- lots, and herbs. The P.Y. noodles — tossed with garlic butter, oyster sauce, and Parme- san cheese — are soulful comfort food, as is a pho made with rich broth. On Sundays, in- dulge in Phuc Yea’s spirited brunch. 7100 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-602-3710; www. phucyea.com Pinch Kitchen + Bar Pinch Kitchen owners Rene Reyes and John Gallo met while working at Casa Tua. They spent years together at various Pubbelly op- erations before realizing their shared dream and opening a cozy spot just north of the MiMo District in 2015. Pinch Kitchen + Bar offers elevated versions of standard fare: bar- becue pork belly, croquetas, a crisp salad. The proof is in the quality of the ingredients and the care that goes into each dish. Take, for ex- ample, the Pinch burger, an eight-ounce patty made from a custom blend of ground beef, topped with caramelized onions and Swiss: a simple creation, prepared to perfection, and one of the best burgers to be found in all of Miami. The selection of local craft beers and thoughtfully curated wines evidenced a simi- lar level of attention. 8601 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-631-2018; pinchmiami.com Planta South Beach Miami isn’t known as a paradise for vegans, but Planta — a plant-based establishment with a fine-dining ambiance and bespoke cocktail program to match — is the proverbial exception that proves the rule. Better still, it’s sure to please vegans and omnivores alike. Begin with ahi watermelon nigiri, a presenta-
