28 September 21-27, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | lat, the duo behind Hialeah’s La Fresa Fran- cesa; we have them to thank for Silverlake Bistro, as well. Drawing inspiration from their time together in Los Angeles’ Silver Lake area, the couple serves straightforward American fare with subtle French and Latin twists at this unassuming gem in the Nor- mandy Isles neighborhood of Miami Beach. The interior is done up in retro California shabby chic, from trippy wallpaper to kitschy flea market finds. The menu filled top to bot- tom with winners, including a rich gnocchi mac & cheese seared in duck fat, fried empa- nadas stuffed with chunks of flank steak, and a dish of smoky roasted heirloom carrots on a bed of creamy ricotta and honey. And then there’s the burger: two juicy, grass-fed USDA prime beef patties topped with melted sharp cheddar on a housemade brioche bun slath- ered in porcini mushroom butter. The friendly and attentive staff address their many regulars by name and extend invita- tions (regardless of satiety) to sample dessert offerings, including a dark chocolate pot de crème and a salted-butter and sugar crêpe. Pro tip: Visit on a Tuesday and avail yourself of 50 percent off the wine list. 1211 71st St., Miami Beach; 786-803-8113; www.insta- gram.com/silverlakebistromiami Stiltsville Fish Bar Culinary couple — and erstwhile Top Chef contestants Jeff McInnis (season 5) and Ja- nine Booth (season 11) — operate this Sunset Harbour fish house, which draws inspiration from the former’s early years in the Florida Panhandle, where he subsisted on simply prepared seafood paired with tropical cock- tails. The indoor-outdoor venue includes a maritime-themed dining room and bar and a menu that ranges from signature items that range from spicy Buffalo fish wings and a housemade, oak-smoked fish dip prepared with the freshest local catch to Southern fa- vorites like fish ’n’ grits and sweet-corn spoon bread. For a unique experience, guests can choose their meal directly from an ice-filled tub that showcases the day’s selection of fresh fish. Pro tip: The weeknight happy hour is popular among locals in search of deals on cocktails, rum sippers, and bar bites. 1787 Purdy Ave., Miami Beach; 786-353-0477; stiltsvillefishbar.com Stubborn Seed Jeremy Ford — the Florida-born, smooth- scalped winner of the 13th season of Bravo’s reality cooking show Top Chef in 2016 — pres- ents gorgeous dishes the likes of which Mi- ami has rarely seen. Though Ford offers an à la carte menu that’s ever-changing, the best way to experience Stubborn Seed is through its eight-course chef’s tasting menu, available weeknights before 9 p.m. for $150 per person. The restaurant’s commitment to delivering the “perfect bite” with every dish earned it a Michelin star in 2022. 101 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; 786-322-5211; stubbornseed. com Surf Club Restaurant The prices at the Surf Club are among the highest you’ll find in Miami, but then, so is the quality. Located in a completely rebuilt Mediterranean Revival-style resort in Surf- side, the restaurant stands just a few blocks from high-end Bal Harbour. Designed by Russell Pancoast, the original inn and eatery opened on New Year’s Eve 1930 and quickly earned the nickname “Millionaires’ Surf Club” for its level of exclusivity and ability to attract the rich and famous. Today the restau- rant is run by one of the biggest names in American food: Thomas Keller, who remains the first and only U.S.-born chef to hold mul- tiple three-star ratings from Michelin. Keller doesn’t take shortcuts. His beef Wellington is made from 48-hour-braised short rib in a beef mousse, layered with a spinach and black- truffle mushroom pâté and wrapped in a pa- per-thin crèpe, then bundled in thick brioche and placed in the oven for about half an hour, warming the center and producing an outer crisp. Then (and only then) it is presented on a wooden cart and sliced tableside. The folks at Michelin took note in the 2022 debut of its Florida guide, awarding the Surf Club a star. 9011 Collins Ave., Surfside; 305-768-9440; www.surfclubrestaurant.com Sushi Erika In 2018, Erika, the daughter and right hand of beloved sushi master Michio Kushi, opened her own tiny sushi spot just down the road from her dad’s old haunt, Sushi Deli, in North Bay Village — and she brought many of her late father’s classics with her. Don’t be misled by the diminutive space — Sushi Erika offers an impressive array of maki, soups, and sal- ads. The impeccably crafted rolls range from a California roll or bagel roll to battera, a pressed mackerel sushi roll. Signature rolls include the North Bay roll — made with deep- fried scallop and crab salad topped with two types of fish roe, masago, spicy mayo, and kimchi sauce. Be sure to check the board for daily specials. 1700 John F. Kennedy Cswy., North Bay Village; 786-216-7216 Takato There are scores of oceanfront restaurants on Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard, but pre- cious few are able to calibrate a vibe and menu to match their picturesque setting. Takato serves up ocean views at every table. There’s also a 26-seat sushi bar, as well as a circular bar, half of which is indoors, the other half outside, steps from the beach. Ex- ecutive chef Taek Lee’s menu artfully blends Korean and Japanese cuisines. Standouts in- clude a Wagyu gyoza starter whose rich meat filling is countered by a spicy onion ponzu. There’s also a generous dish of kimchi fried rice, presented in a heavy stone bowl still hot from the oven that warms the dish as you eat, cooking the final layer of rice to a crispy layer. The meat and seafood selections are uni- formly topnotch, including a dish of seared scallops and octopus served alongside a bowl of foam-topped bisque. 551 N. Fort Lauder- dale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-414- 5160; www.takatorestaurant.com Taquiza No one told Taquiza’s Steve Santana to un- dertake the painstaking process of turning corn to masa to produce his own tortillas. No one demanded those tortillas be filled with the slightly spicy, charred poblano strips called rajas or the tangy corn fungus known as huitlacoche. Yet after stints with Jeremiah Bullfrog and at Giorgio Rapicavo- li’s Eating House, the computer program- mer turned chef decided it had to be done. And thus, in 2014, Santana’s little walk-up counter on Collins Avenue set a new stan- dard for tacos in a city where tacos are a booming business. The South Beach stand is no more, but Taquiza on North Beach offers the same margaritas, made with care in vir- tually any flavor combination you can imag- ine. Craving yours with fresh coconut water, tamarind, and pineapple? Done! Want a strawberry-cilantro margarita? Your bar- keep will muddle the fresh ingredients. 7450 Ocean Terrace, Miami Beach; 786- 588-4755; taquizatacos.com Tran An If you’ve got 20 bucks, you can dine like roy- alty at this tiny, ’70s-inspired eatery. Tran An owner Jon Nguyen’s 18-seat restaurant offers Vietnamese comfort food: a hearty pho, a tangy papaya salad, bánh mì sandwiches, and a chicken-and-rice dish are all satisfying and affordable. The pho’s broth is rich, heaped with slices of chicken or beef, noodles, and vegetables. Vegans can get their comfort too, with a vegetable pho based on a vegan broth. There’s no liquor license, but you’re free to bring beer or grab a bottle of wine from the shop next door. Speaking of bottles, don’t leave without a bottle of Nguyen’s “Grandma” sauce, a Vietnamese fish sauce condiment that perks up everything from salad to eggs. 215 NE 82nd St., Miami; 305-423-3578; www. trananmiami.com Tropical Chinese Restaurant Nearly four decades into its existence, Tropi- cal Chinese is still going strong. The dinner menu is chock full of offerings, from the tra- ditional to the exotic. Appetizers include wok-fried, salt-and-pepper-style calamari and the fun-to-eat “rainbow pancake,” fea- turing four wraps to fill tableside with vermi- celli noodles, wood ear mushrooms, shredded carrot, cabbage, scallions, and freshly ground peanuts glazed with plum sauce. What’s more, this unassuming spot in a West Miami- Dade strip mall remains a go-to for the best dim sum in the county. More than 30 kinds of are offered, all prepared fresh on site. Pro tip: The barbecue pork buns are a must. 7991 Bird Rd., Miami; 305-262-7576; www.tropicalchi- nesemiami.com Union Kitchen & Bar Italy and Peru might seem worlds apart, but at Union Kitchen & Bar, the spirit of each is equally accessible. At their restaurant tucked away in Wilton Manors, husband-and-wife team Christie Tenaud and Roberto Colombi aim to unite the best of both cuisines with a menu that marries Colombi’s Northern Italian heritage with Tenaud’s South American sass. Inspired by their love of savoring a meal — es- pecially that special union that takes place with loved ones sharing good food and wine — the couple has created an ambiance inspired by love. As executive chef, Tenaud’s seasonally inspired menu shines with selections that change with the best of what’s available, com- plemented by Colombi’s thoughtfully curated wine list. Highlights include a bounty of local produce that makes its way into garden-in- spired salads, modern American takes on ta- cos and arepas, handmade pastas that spotlight seafood, meats, and vegetables; and decadent housemade desserts — like the drunken bourbon bread pudding with crème anglaise and bourbon-soaked golden raisins. 2309 N. Dixie Highway, Wilton Manors; 754- 216-0143; www.unionkb.com Versailles Restaurant Since opening in 1971, Versailles has become a Calle Ocho staple for locals and tourists alike. The 200-plus seat dining room is illu- minated by golden chandeliers and sur- rounded by lustrous mirrors — a nod to the Hall of Mirrors at its namesake outside Paris. But that’s about the only taste of France you’ll get at this classic Cuban eatery. The ex- tensive menu offers appetizers such as cro- Takato photo Salmon sashimi at Takato
