10 September 21-27, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | on interpreting dishes from Levantine cul- ture, found mostly in Jordan, Lebanon, Israel, Syria, and parts of southern Turkey. The orig- inal Byblos is in Toronto, and as is often the case with Miami outposts, this one offers a more extensive seafood selection than its Ca- nadian sibling. It’s equipped with a wood- burning oven, used to bake pide (Turkish flatbread) and to finish off whole fish, lamb, and chicken dishes that are rustic yet refined. 1545 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 786-864- 2990; byblosmiami.com Cafe La Trova Between Cuban cantinero Julio Cabrera’s daiquiris and chef Michelle Bernstein’s fare, there’s something uniquely Miami about Cafe La Trova. Bernstein’s comfort food is all- around tempting. She works to meet the foodie fantasies of her guests, whether they’re in search of elaborate dishes or a tra- ditional tres leches dessert. Cabrera’s can- tineros take pride in the art of drink making. Here they “throw” daiquiris, tossing the pre- cious liquid from shaker to shaker to create an arch in the air, before spontaneously burst- ing into a choreographed dance number. But as with all things Magic City, this joint isn’t fueled solely by good food and drink: At any given time of the day, expect guayabera-clad musicians or jazz trumpet players to fill the air with their vibrant tunes, all set against a stage backdropped with the weathered fa- çade of an Old Havana edifice. The Florida Michelin Guide recognized Cafe La Trova for its superior food and drink. 971 SW Eighth St., Miami; 786-615-4379; cafelatrova.com Captain Jim’s Seafood Market & Restaurant David Garcia (La Camaronera Seafood Joint) now owns this iconic North Miami seafood spot, which dates back to the 1990s. This heir to Miami seafood royalty kept the menu mostly unchanged, allowing Captain Jim’s to do what it does best: serve the fresh- est fish possible. Favorites include stone crab claws and a beautiful take on conch salad with meaty hunks of the mollusk tossed in a spicy tomato marinade and cubed red and green peppers. Fresh yellowtail snapper and hogfish can be ordered grilled, blackened, or fried. Regulars go for the “Captain’s Combo” — the catch of the day served with one side. 12950 W. Dixie High- way, North Miami; 305-892-2812; www.ins- tagram.com/captainjimsmia/ Casa Isola Osteria When Pubbelly Noodle Bar closed in Miami Beach’s Sunset Harbour neighborhood back in 2019, it left an empty space in the hearts of fans of José Mendín. Fortunately, the chef kept the lease, opening a quaint Italian bis- tro with longtime business partner Sergio Navarro and former Lucali chef Santo Agnello. The result, Casa Isola Osteria, is a charming spot that serves up red-sauce clas- sics like linguini with white clams and pap- pardelle alla bolognese with braised Wagyu. The star of the show, however, is a stellar rigatoni alla vodka. The restaurant’s décor attempts to replicate the ambiance of a tiny Italian village, so if you’ve been jonesing for some international travel, it’s a chance to get away to Italy — if only for a meal. (In 2022, Mendín opened a sister restaurant, Patio Isola, on Biscayne Boulevard in MiMo.) 1418 20th St., Miami Beach; 786-558-5787; casaisolamiami.com Chayhana Oasis A mural depicting a desert beneath a floating pair of eyes is the only sign that beckons pass- ersby into this Uzbek-style hideaway, accessi- ble only from one side of NE 163rd Street. Chayhana Oasis offers fare not only from Uz- bekistan but also the entire central Eurasian region. Translation: You can eat your way around several nations. To keep the proceed- ings simple and entertaining, the menu con- tains quirky descriptions of lesser-known dishes. Begin with the doma, tender stuffed Turkish-style grape leaves; continue with shish kebabs of lamb, chicken, beef, or shrimp. For dessert, try gnezdo, a crunchy meringue topped with diced walnuts. In stan- dard European fashion, wash it all down with a shot of top-shelf vodka. Go ahead — there’s no shortage of fresh, chewy Uzbek-style bread to soak it up. 250 Sunny Isles Blvd., Sunny Isles Beach; 305-917-1133; chay- hanaoasis.com Chefs on the Run Puerto Rican-born chef/owner Jodrick Ujaque took stints at well-known Caribbean- inspired Miami establishments before open- ing his Homestead restaurant in 2011. With influence, however, comes innovation, evi- denced by a menu that displays a tasty blend of American, Taíno, Caribbean, and even Asian influences. The eight-table dining room is simple, dark, and rustic, if a tad cramped. Start with pa’ picar — snacks like bolita de queso (deep-fried golden torpedos of stretchy cassava dough filled with Gouda and white cheddar) and alcapurria (delicate picadillo nestled in a plantain masa and fried to crisp perfection). Puerto Rican purists might pass on more unorthodox offerings like macarrones con res, a truffle and chipo- tle mac & cheese made with cotija cheese and birria-style braised beef. But they’ll surely rejoice when presented with the mo- fongo, a Boricua staple of pounded green plantain mash mixed with nibs of pork-belly chicharrón and shaped into a sphere, whose starchy texture softens when dunked into the accompanying caldo de pollo. It can be served alongside chicken, shrimp, or steak and arroz con gandules, the Caribbean is- land’s version of rice and beans. 10 E. Mowry Dr., Homestead; 305-245-0085; chefson- theruninhomestead.com Chug’s Diner Michael Beltran distinctly remembers the day he got his nickname. It was his first day as a high school freshman; Beltran walked in late to class, a chocolate milk chug in hand. Today, Chug is the name of the restaurateur’s Cuban-American diner, a successful pop-up he’s since expanded into a permanent, full- service eatery and modern-day ventanita. Where once stood a tiny grab ‘n’ go, Chug’s now shows off an airy, open design inviting morning, afternoon, or late-night dining, complete with diner-style booths and a bar with lounge-style seating. True to the diner ethos, a crave-worthy menu of Cuban-Ameri- can eats covers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. While pancakes and meatloaf are signature highlights, don’t miss out on the curated se- lection of Pastelito Papi’s famous fruit- and meat-stuffed pastelitos, or the house Cubano sandwich served on fresh-baked Cuban bread from the diner’s bakery. In 2022, Chug’s was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its ap- proachable, excellent fare. 3444 Main High- way, Miami; 786-353-2940; chugsdiner.com Clive’s Cafe Clive’s Cafe makes its mark with Jamaican fa- vorites such as curry goat, oxtail, and jerk chicken. The original Wynwood location, which had been around for nearly four de- cades, closed, but the Little Haiti digs make for a colorful haven in which to eat some of the best Jamaican fare in Miami. The chicken is cooked to diner perfection and the curry is a smooth and subtle blend. The jerk chicken with rice and beans is a favorite menu item. The mood is laid-back — right down to the small radio pumping out reggae sounds. You just may catch Clive’s fan Lenny Kravitz tak- ing in the scene. The place is great for takeout but just as nice for a pit stop at any time of day. 5890 NW Second Ave. Ste. A, Miami; 305-757-6512; clivescafe.com Coney Burger Coney Burger’s ascent from Smorgasburg pop-up in Wynwood to Calle Ocho brick-and- mortar establishment is a testament to the love that power couple Pedro (chef) and Van- essa (marketing) Lara pour into the venture. Carnivores should order the “Champ,” a be- yond-juicy Wagyu patty procured from a family-run ranch in Homestead, seared to perfection and topped with a slice of tarra- gon-seasoned, pickled green heirloom to- mato, a schmear of the chef’s egg yolk-based “happy sauce,” a tangy-sweet housemade yuzu mayo, and a sprinkling of chopped chives. The vegan “Coney” is a made-from- scratch patty that combines maitake and oys- ter mushrooms with sweet potato, black beans, carrot, and a blend of seasonings, served with vegan cheese, lettuce, tomato, vegan cilantro aioli, “Coney sauce,” and “magic” fried onions. All burgers are served on a vegan brioche bun fashioned after Japa- nese milk bread — squishy and buttery, like a brioche bao — an ideal delivery vehicle for these irresistible treats. 2298 SW Eighth St., Miami; 786-523-2722; coneyburger.com Photo by Nicole Danna Pasta at Casa Isola Osteria
