9 September 19-25, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | September 19-25, 2024 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | Abbalé Telavivian Kitchen 864 COMMERCE ST., MIAMI BEACH 305-587-4242 ABBALETLV.COM Abbalé Telavivian Kitchen, a partnership be- tween chef Samuel “Sam” Gorenstein and Omer Horev, founder of Pura Vida Miami, might just be the most charming restaurant in Miami Beach. The eatery, inside a small house complete with a porch lined with flowing plants and cozy cushions, offers a plethora of bright fare. Start with a few mezze before mov- ing on to more substantial fare like grilled lamb chops or a whole branzino. Gorenstein drew his inspiration from the cafés of Tel Aviv, a city he says is like Miami in style and climate. Ab- balé is intimate, inviting, and altogether an ex- tremely pleasant way to pass the time grazing on shareable plates while sip- ping a glass of wine (or two). Apocalypse BBQ 9980 SW 104TH ST., MIAMI APOCALYPSEBBQ.COM A business that began on a We- ber Smokey Mountain has grown into one of the area’s best barbecue restaurants. In 2022, Jeff Budnechky chan- neled his pandemic side hustle into a stand- alone location. Outside the restaurant, a small array of smokers billow aromas of pork and beef that betray Budnechky’s Brazilian-Argen- tinian roots and his wife’s Cuban heritage. Ar- rive early and you might snag an order of the brisket bacon: seasoned and smoked pork belly sliced thick and tossed on the flattop be- fore serving. If you manage to resist ordering the St. Louis-cut ribs at first, you might change your mind after seeing platters emerge from the kitchen, slow-cooked and practically beg- ging to be lacquered with Budnechky’s colada- infused “oro negro” sauce. Cafecito-rubbed, Texas-style brisket or pulled pork shoulder pair nicely with the chef’s Carolina-inspired mustard sauce (not to mention classic sides like a pepper-flecked mac & cheese, sweet coleslaw, and honey-doused cornbread). Fur- ther upping the ante: a ten-seat bar offering tropical and classic cocktails. Try a shaken piña colada made with fresh juices or the berry-infused, housemade sangria. Arbetter’s Hot Dogs 8747 SW 40TH ST., MIAMI 305-207-0555 ARBETTERS.COM It’s not necessarily the hot dogs themselves that are better at Arbetter’s. Rather, these all- beef or pork-and-beef franks are ideal blank canvases for the three garnish combinations that solidified Arbetter’s reputation when this family-run institution opened more than a half-century ago. The basic onion/relish dog is nicely tangy, and the sauerkraut/mustard dog, loaded with beautifully buttery, cooked-all-day-tender kraut, is even better. Along with the rich and flavorful but not overly hot all-meat chili topping from an old Arbetter family recipe, a garnish of diced raw onion adds that reas- suring subliminal message that you’re consuming a healthful greenish vegetable that certainly counteracts the menu’s cholesterol count — so, hey, have another. For a taste of the 305, try a “Miami” dog with mustard, onion, cheese, tomato, and potato sticks. Or throw caution to the wind and order the “Zelda”: a hot dog with “everything” on it. Ariete 3540 MAIN HIGHWAY, COCONUT GROVE 305-640-5862 ARIETECOCONUTGROVE.COM Chef Michael Beltran’s Ariete adds an air of refinement to Coconut Grove not seen since the days when industrialist James Deering caroused its shores. Ariete serves dishes like foie gras with smoked plantains, but there’s something more than fancy amid the elegance offered by Beltran, who trained under chefs Norman Van Aken and Michael Schwartz. The Little Havana native twists bits of Cuba and France into every dish, just the way his grandparents taught him. In 2022, Beltran’s culinary craftsmanship earned Ariete a Michelin star. Awash Ethiopian Restaurant 19934 NW SECOND AVE., MIAMI GARDENS 305-770-5100 AWASHETHIOPIAN.COM At Awash, owners Eka and Fouad Wassel want to take you to an authentic Ethiopian- style home kitchen called a gojo bait. Try the doro wot, a rich chicken dish with a depth of flavor similar to the moles of Mexico. The Awash River, from which this restaurant and many other Ethiopian eateries across the na- tion take their names, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The valley surrounding it was where researchers in 1974 found 52 fossilized bone fragments of the famed early hominid Lucy. Carbon dating put the partial skeleton’s age at more than 3 million years, a fact almost every Ethiopian knows. But it’s also one that brings home the history of this part of the world and the fact that much of human cul- ture was born here. You might be tempted to visit only at night, but be sure to pop in during the daylight hours for a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony, the same one that’s repeated up to three times a day in the Horn of Africa. Green coffee beans are pan-roasted, hand- ground, and then slowly brewed over hot coals. The point is to slow you to a stop in or- der to connect with the coffee and those with whom you’re sharing it. Bachour 2020 SALZEDO ST., CORAL GABLES 305-203-0552 ANTONIOBACHOUR.COM Bachour, the namesake restaurant and bakery from Antonio Bachour, is an oasis of the Ins- tagram-worthy pastries that made the Puerto Rican pastry chef a national sensation. The clean, industrial setting is the perfect back- drop for the brightly hued pastries, cakes, and other confections. Open for breakfast, lunch, brunch, and dinner, Bachour’s all-day menu of salads, sandwiches, and hearty entrées earned the restaurant a Michelin Bib Gour- mand designation in 2022. A meal can range from an egg sandwich or eggs Benedict to heartier fare, including a steak sandwich, lomo risotto, and fettuccine in a housemade pomodoro sauce. Be sure to grab a box of bonbons or macarons to take home. Since opening in Coral Gables in 2019, Bachour has added a location in Doral. Blue Collar 6789 BISCAYNE BLVD., MIAMI 305-756-0366 BLUECOLLARMIAMI.COM Now in classed-up digs across Biscayne Bou- levard from the original site, Danny Serfer’s Blue Collar still takes its cues from the classic American diner. The MiMo District stalwart offers daily specials and elevated comfort foods. Start with a gutsy New Orleans-style dish of shrimp and grits with bacon and Worcestershire-based barbecue sauce, or Ha- nukkah latkes (served year-round). Don’t miss the veggie plate, shich allows you to build your own customized entrée. Order a thermos of Panther coffee and a cheeseburger or the pasta of the day and make yourself as comfy as you’d be in your mom’s kitchen. Pro tip: Ser- fer’s also the chef behind another of our faves, Mignonette, an oyster bar and all-around sea- food gem just north of downtown. Boia De 5205 NE SECOND AVE., MIAMI 786-209-6310 BOIADERESTAURANT.COM This hip Little Haiti spot run by chefs Luci- ana Giangrandi and Alex Meyer offers an ever-changing lineup of pastas designed to comfort and enchant. Look for pappardelle “Alla Lepre” — unctuous shreds of braised rabbit tangled with wide ribbons of pasta. It’s TOP 100 RESTAURANTS Apocalypse BBQ Photo by Nicole Danna M iami continues to elbow its way into the U.S. culinary conversation, cementing its status as a foodie paradise, and frankly we’re totally here for it. In this vibrant city, you can chow down on authentic Cuban frijoles negros without flying to Havana, dive into Greek salads and meze that give the Mediterranean a run for its money, and savor a juicy Argentinian churrasco or a zesty pad Thai — all in the space of one bustling block! All of which makes narrowing the field to 100 restaurants a daunting challenge. Still, we’ve done our best to spotlight the full range of dining experiences the Magic City offers as well as the delightful diversity of a vast dining landscape. From charming, family-owned treasures in Kendall to popular dining spots in Miami Shores, you’ll find a rainbow of flavors and neighborhoods. Whether you’re in the mood for bold Latin dishes, fresh seafood, or cutting- edge Japanese fusion, Miami’s got you covered. We’ve presented our picks in alphabetical order, the better to let each restaurant shine on its own. By all means dive in and explore the culinary magic of Miami — and let us know which of your favorites we hit (and the inevitable ones we omitted). We’re grateful to have you along on this delicious adventure. Bon appétit! — Nicole Lopez-Alvar
