34 September 19-25, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | The Secret’s Out Epic Japanese-inspired tasting menus in Coral Gables — Who Knew!? BY MICHELLE MUSLERA W hat began as a six-seat, back-of-the-house pop- up at Little River’s for- mer Hachidori Ramen has now evolved into a full-fledged restaurant in Coral Gables — and it’s Coral Gables’ best-kept secret. Still intimate, but now with 30 seats, Kojin 2.0 is the latest venture from husband-and- wife team Pedro and Katherine Mederos. The original Kojin was meant to last only three months but lingered for two years, earning a Michelin recommendation along the way. It was even named New Times’ Best- Kept Secret (Dining Division) in 2022. Now, in the former Lion and the Rambler space (once home to Eating House), Kojin 2.0 offers the same high standards with more room to breathe — and eat some really delicious food. Pedro Mederos, born in Cuba and raised in Miami, honed his craft at the Culinary Insti- tute of America and worked in top-tier res- taurants, including the Michelin three-starred SingleThread in California, be- fore returning to his roots. “Kojin 2.0 is a punk rock experience in a jazz bar,” Mederos says, describing the restaurant’s blend of high-quality cooking with an anything-goes attitude. The name itself nods to Kojin, the Japanese god of fire, hearth, and the kitchen, as a tribute to the chefs who’ve influenced him along the way. Though Japanese influences are clear, don’t expect sushi or ramen here. Mederos wanted to avoid being boxed into a traditional Japanese category. Instead, the menu honors Japanese cuisine through its re- spect for seasonality and the careful handling of ingredients. “It’s Japanese, but with Amer- ican influences,” he explains, noting the flexi- bility to have fun with flavors while keeping presentation meticulous. One example is the now-famous caesar salad, which Mederos calls his “Flanigan’s Caesar” after spending a couple of months in Tokyo. Growing up in Miami, he frequented Flanigan’s in Coconut Grove and decided to take that memory and give it a Japanese twist. His version is brinier, topped with trout roe, shredded nori, and a generous amount of dressing. The menu is full of such twists, but don’t get too attached. The dishes are seasonal, changing not just by the season but some- times even by the day. Slow-braised short rib on Thursday could be swapped for Neiman Ranch strip loin on Saturday, though the bright, lemongrass-infused demi-glace sauce that accompanies it stays the same. The space itself feels both lively and re- laxed, with minimalist decor and brightly col- ored floral prints. The intimate seating, combined with a small but attentive front-of- house team, creates a warm, welcoming envi ronment, and with a lunch service that offers a more casual Izakaya-style experience — perfect for a quick yaki soba and a beer — Ko- jin 2.0 manages to strike a balance between playful and serious. The restaurant’s expanded seating means more diners can enjoy the show, with many of the tables offering views of the open kitchen. or the true food enthusiast, there are still two coveted seats at the chef’s counter, where you can watch Mederos work up close. “The food is always evolving,” Mederos says. The summer menu is set to transition into fall at the end of September, but for now, standouts include the caesar salad and the maitake risotto — a dish of pure umami with feathery mushrooms and Parmesan foam complemented by tart notes of apricot. here’s also a series of tasting menus for those who want to go all in, with three tiers: the “Com- mis” (six courses for $85), the “Sous” (12 courses for $145), and the “Executive,” which includes exclusive access to the chef’s counter seats, wine, and sake pairings. A thoughtfully curated wine list offers selections from both the old and new world, available by the glass or bottle, alongside a tight menu of beer and sake. Dessert is where Katherine Mederos shines. Her light and refreshing Key lime ice cream sandwich, nestled between two graham crackers and topped with torched meringue and coconut, is a light and refreshing end to a meal. For those with a bit more appetite left, there’s a deceptively simple chocolate tarte with miso and dulce de leche or the indulgent doughnut and foie. Ultimately, Kojin 2.0 isn’t just a restaurant; it’s an evolving experience as inventive as its chef. It’s a place where you can expect the un- expected, knowing that whatever comes out of the kitchen will honor the seasons and sur- prise you. f the original Kojin felt like a hid- den gem, Kojin 2.0 is ready to take center stage. Kojin 2.0. 804 Ponce de Leon, Coral Gables; 786-747-1404. Tuesday through Saturday noon to 4 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m. [email protected] ▼ Café Kojin 2.0 photos Once a pop-up in the back of a ramen shop, Kojin 2.0 has emerged into the spotlight, turning heads and generating buzz in Coral Gables. Pedro Mederos
