24 September 19-25, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | September 19-25, 2024 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Nossa Omakase 1600 COLLINS AVE., MIAMI BEACH 305-539-9711 NOSSAOMAKASE.COM Under certain circumstances, entrusting a $375 multicourse dinner to a complete stranger represents good value. Such is the case at Sebastian Labno and Astrid Ramirez’s Nossa Omakase in Miami Beach, a reserva- tion-only restaurant — the name borrows the Portuguese word for wow — that marries Jap- anese tradition with Magic City culture and its attendant Latin influences. An omakase eve- ning at Nossa begins with a welcome cocktail in the space’s dimly illuminated lounge before you’re ushered to the main dining room, whose focal point is a plush circular sushi bar where every seat is the best in the house. Here, Labno holds the spotlight, offering a theatrical thrill as he finishes plates before your eyes. The menu changes frequently, but you’ll al- ways find a favorite in the “Shokupan Sando,” a rich, golden-yellow Japanese jidori egg yolk between two slices of Japanese milk bread topped with fresh-shaved truffles and a dollop of caviar. No wonder the Michelin Guide’s ‘22 debut included a star for Nossa. Wow! Off Site 8250 NE SECOND AVE., MIAMI 786-360-4237 OFFSITE.MIAMI Taquiza’s Steve Santana and beer maven Adam Darnell (formerly of Boxelder) have opened a restaurant that’s utterly unpreten- tious. Off Site has no celebrity name tied to it, no velvet rope, and only one goal: to serve the best comfort food (and beer) in Miami. The sole item on the menu when the place opened in 2021 was a perfectly turned-out fried chicken sandwich made with thigh meat and served on a bun with lettuce and mayo — that and the partners’ “Super Good” lager. The menu has expanded (slightly) to include burgers, housemade hot dogs, smoked chicken wings, and a smattering of specials. If you live nearby, you’re lucky enough to call this Little River gem your neighborhood hangout. It’s the perfect place to grab a bite with friends or salve body and soul after a bad day — a fried chicken sandwich and a beer here is the edible equivalent of a hug. Old Lisbon Restaurant 1698 CORAL WAY, MIAMI 305-854-0039 OLDLISBONRESTAURANTS.COM/ Old Lisbon opened its doors in January 1991 with an open-kitchen concept and authentic Portuguese cuisine, and it’s been a staple neighborhood restaurant on Coral Way ever since. An open kitchen accents the modern yet rustic dining room, and dishes such as carne de porco a alentejana give diners a chance to taste the unexpected flavors of Por- tugal so often eclipsed by neighboring Spain. With a wine cellar that features Old World selections, as well as Portuguese beers and exceptional service from the knowledgeable staff, Old Lisbon is here to stay. (Also in South Miami, and, most recently, in Aventura.) Old’s Havana Cuban Bar & Cocina 1442 SW EIGHTH ST., MIAMI 786-518-2196 OLDSHAVANA.COM Old’s Havana Cuban Bar & Cocina is located on Calle Ocho of Little Havana and has been a staple for tourists and locals alike. From vin- tage Cuban decor and Cuban music, Old’s Ha- vana’s authentic Cuban cuisine speaks for itself with the flavors of years of tradition. Plus, it takes a lot of confidence for a bar sta- tioned on Little Havana’s historic Calle Ocho to proclaim itself a “Casa del Mojito.” At Old’s Havana Cuban Bar and Cocina, that chutzpah is justified. The quintessential Cuban highball would be nothing without its freshly muddled mint and high-quality rum, and that’s what Old’s Havana is more than prepared to offer its patrons each day from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. (midnight on weekends). If you’re in the mood for the authentic old-school flavor, con- sider asking that your mojito be prepared with an aged rum. Old’s Havana stocks 29 options of aged rum at the bar. Or, if you’re the sort who likes to go rogue, you can try your luck with one of five flavored mojitos, which range from raspberry to coconut to passionfruit. Omakai Sushi 2107 NW SECOND AVE., MIAMI 786-579-9995 OMAKAISUSHI.COM The Magic City is showing an impressive penchant for sushi, attracting world-re- nowned chefs and a growing number of elite omakase experiences. In Miami, a standout is Omakai, founded by four friends who la- mented the area’s dearth of reasonably priced sushi. To offer a more affordable omakase ex- perience, guests can choose three multi- course options that begin with seasonal-themed appetizers and sashimi, fol- lowed by an assortment of sushi and hand rolls. We suggest guests go with the “Oma Deluxe” ($40) — a ten-course progression that goes down even better when paired with one of the restaurant’s four seasonal sake flights. A vestige of those pandemic days, there’s even the brand’s own “Homeakase” offering, a specialty to-go menu box that brings the Omakai chef-curated experience to you. Pascal’s on Ponce 2611 PONCE DE LEON BLVD., CORAL GABLES 305-444-2024 PASCALMIAMI.COM This modest, 16-table room hasn’t changed much since celebrated chef Pascal Oudin first opened its doors in 2000. The space is well- lit and conspicuously clean — the walls freshly painted, linens neatly pressed, and nosegays of unblemished roses upon each table. The contem- porary French cuisine is equally beautiful, with high- lights like porcini mushroom and foie gras soup and a twice- baked upside-down Gruyère cheese soufflé. The crisp mou- lard duck confit with wilted spinach, and pommes Sarlada- ise is divine, as are all of the en- trées. Main courses on this small menu are likewise marked by meticu- lous preparation and robust flavors. Pascal’s is a Miami staple, and hopefully will be for years to come. Phuc Yea 7100 BISCAYNE BLVD., MIAMI 305-602-3710 PHUCYEA.COM Phuc Yea is a grand 110-seater filled with the sounds of ‘90s hip-hop and the scent of Viet- nam’s ubiquitous fish sauce. That irresistible combo earned Cesar Zapata and Ani Mein- hold’s Upper East Side mainstay a Michelin Bib Gourmand designation in 2022. Try the green papaya salad, in which chilies, garlic, dried shrimp and squid, and Vietnamese co- riander are pulverized into a potent paste that’s tossed with toothsome papaya threads, carrots, and sweet cherry tomatoes, then crowned with banana blossom ribbons, shal- lots, and herbs. The P.Y. noodles — tossed with garlic butter, oyster sauce, and Parme- san cheese — are soulful comfort food, as is a pho made with rich broth. On Sundays, in- dulge in Phuc Yea’s spirited brunch. Prime 112 112 OCEAN DR., MIAMI BEACH 305-532-8112 MYLESRESTAURANTGROUP.COM/ PRIME-112/ There’s much more than beef at this inven- tive New American steakhouse. Guests can also dine happily on creative entrées featur- ing poultry or on cold-water oysters and other pristine raw-bar selections. That said, the USDA Prime dry-aged steaks are superb, and so are the à la carte sides. They include upgraded versions of steakhouse classics — vibrant-green creamed spinach with crisp shallots, cornmeal-crusted onion rings, and the like — plus unique creations such as sweet potato and vanilla bean mash. Reserv- ing weeks in advance is wisest. Insider tip: Not only are the portions Instagram-worthy, but Prime 112 is also a hot spot for celebrity sightings. On any given night, Ferraris and Lamborghinis pull up to valet, and their doors open gracefully to reveal stars such as Miami Heat players and the Kardashians. Red Rooster Overtown 920 NW SECOND AVE., MIAMI 305-640-9880 REDROOSTEROVERTOWN.COM As the decade turned, celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson imported his Harlem Red Rooster to Overtown. Situated on the former site of Clyde Killens’ pool hall, where Black stars from Aretha Franklin to Sam Cooke to Muhammad Ali used to mingle, the restau- rant offers dishes that encom- pass influences from Africa, the Southern U.S., the Carib- bean, and beyond, earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2022. Red Rooster ups the ante with a weekend brunch, live music, and a beautiful bar; fam- ilies can check out the Cream- ery for a cornbread-flavored ice cream cone or order a plate of fried “yardbird” and biscuits with hot honey and jalapeño honey butter. Bonus: The Pool Hall upstairs has been lov- ingly recreated as a lounge with a retro vibe. Rusty Pelican 3201 RICKENBACKER CSWY., KEY BISCAYNE 305-361-3818 THERUSTYPELICAN.COM Savory seafood and stunning views of Biscayne Bay from every seat in the house (and out): That’s what makes the Rusty Pelican, a Key Biscayne landmark, which opened in the 1970s just off the Rickenbacker Causeway, a perennial favorite. It’s the perfect spot to celebrate all manner of milestones, be they birthdays and engagements or graduation dinners. Enduring signature items include the “Rusty Pelican Board for Two” (fried snapper, lobster and shrimp risotto, and New York strip steak), a surf and turf of filet mignon and butter-poached lobster, and the “Steak Progressive” (four different cuts of steak with roasted garlic confit and red wine shallots). The restaurant offers a lavish Sunday brunch TOP 100 RESTAURANTS Old Lisbon Restaurant Old Lisbon Restaurant photo
