14 September 14-20, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | ▼ CORAL GABLES THOMAS KELLER OPENS CLASSIC FRENCH BISTRO Bouchon, the French bistro from chef Thomas Keller, unveiled its Coral Gables out- post last week. The restaurant opened on September 9 in the historic La Palma building. Designed by architect H. George Fink and built in 1924, it was formerly home to the Cla-Reina Hotel before becoming the mixed-use space it is to- day. The structure is considered a perfect ex- ample of the city’s Mediterranean Revival style and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Keller tells New Times he was intent on bringing his iconic establishment — first opened in California in 1998 followed by a second at the Venetian in Las Vegas — to the area’s historic neighborhood. Provenance is important to the MenuMas- ters Hall of Fame chef best known for his takeover of the French Laundry in Yountville, also a historic property dating back to the 1800s. It’s a theme he continued in 2004 when he opened Per Se at the Deutsche Bank Center at Columbus Circle, as well as his first Florida establishment, the Surf Club, located within the Miami club of the same name, which opened in 1930. Even his next en- deavor — opening a yet unnamed restaurant in the former Ta-boo space in Palm Beach — will be a revival of a storied property. “My great torch is to find locations that have meaning behind them,” says Keller. “We chose the La Palma building because of the history it represents. I envision families bringing their children for a meal on a Sunday afternoon, couples coming for a date night, or people coming to celebrate monumental mo- ments. Coral Gables is a beautiful community, and we want Bouchon to be like the hub. For us, that’s really what a place like Bouchon is all about.” For those unfamiliar with Bouchon, ex- pect Keller’s presentation of a classic French bistro where longtime dishes remain stalwart and perennial. “I am not the chef of Bouchon. The chef of Bouchon is history,” Keller says. “We strive to embrace what history has told us about the great brasseries of France and deliver exactly that. There is no interpretation or twist. Our aim is to be as authentic as possible, in both food and design, outside of France. That’s what gives this menu its staying power.” Bouchon Coral Gables’ decor echoes the brand’s other locations, from the classic mo- saic floor and stately zinc bar to the antique light fixtures and hand-painted murals by French artist Paulin Paris, who has painted unique murals for each of Keller’s Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery locations. The restau- rant also has an outdoor courtyard and pri- vate dining space. In the kitchen, the culinary team executes Keller’s vision under the leadership of chef de cuisine Thomas Castellon, an alumnus of his Surfside restaurant, alongside director of cu- linary development David Simms and general manager Christopher Harris. They’ll be joined by pastry chef Courtney Kenyon and Michel Couvreux, the Thomas Keller Res- taurant Group’s long- time director of beverage. At Bouchon, new flourishes only ap- pear on your plate in the form of seasonal produce with a menu that roams from Keller’s signature “fruits de mer” — the oyster and raw bar — to classic hors d’oeuvres and “plats principaux” or main plates. “The menu remains fairly stagnant, but that’s the point,” says Keller. “Everything on the menu has a historical component to it, constituting the highest level of quality pre- pared with consistent execution. You could have a light meal of salad and onion soup, or an indulgent dinner that begins with oysters and continues with several entrees and ends with dessert. And you could order the roast chicken or steak frite for dinner every day. That is what a true bistro represents.” Standouts include classic bistro fare like the soupe à l’oignon (on- ion soup), caramelized sweet onions in beef jus served with country bread and Comté cheese — what Keller describes as a meal in itself. There’s also the poulet rôtir, roasted chicken plated with hen-of-the- woods mushrooms and bacon lardons in a Di- jon chicken jus, and Bouchon’s best-selling dish, the steak frites, a pan-seared flat iron steak paired with caramelized shallots and maître d’hôtel butter served with French fries. For drinks, expect wine and cocktail selec- tions thoughtfully curated for the Coral Ga- bles location. The restaurant’s “Vin De Carafe” program will highlight prominent vintners from California and France for a rea- sonable price, while a Coravin program al- lows guests to enjoy unique French varietals and Napa Valley’s reserve wines by the glass. The cocktail menu elevates classic drinks us- ing French spirits to pair with apéro hour dishes or post-dinner libations. “I feel extremely grateful for the opportu- nity to continue to grow Bouchon here in Florida. I’m also proud of my team and their commitment and dedication to serving the very best in terms of quality. And hats off to all the foragers and our farmers, and all the people that provide us with the nourishing and high-quality food we prepare,” Keller sums up. “This restaurant was born out of the need to create the perfect place for those looking for something that serves hearty, au- thentic, and well-crafted food, and I am so happy to see it become a part of the Coral Ga- bles community.” Bouchon. 2101 Galiano St., Coral Gables; thomaskeller.com. Wednesday through Sunday 5 to 11 p.m. NICOLE DANNA ▼ MIAMI BEACH SOUTH BEACH SEAFOOD FESTIVAL RETURNS TO KICK OFF STONE CRAB SEASON The four-day culinary event heralding the Florida stone crab season kickoff is back. In October, the South Beach Seafood Fes- tival (SBSF) makes its annual return, offer- ing a chance to experience local restaurants via a series of dinners and a daylong outdoor festival. Event cofounders Tod and Valerie Roy say they dreamed up the festival to showcase the best of Miami, from its unique vibe and Latin- influenced culture to the plethora of local cu- linary talent from neighborhood establishments. “We wanted to kick off stone crab season because it’s so big in Miami, and the city re- ally didn’t have anything like that,” says Val- erie. “What better place to go than to the mecca of stone crabs? The chef and the gen- eral manager are always there to give a speech and give us the history of Joe’s, and we crack the freshest claws of the season.” Once the Roys decided on seafood as a fo- cus, they enlisted Miami’s heaviest hitter, Joe’s Stone Crab, to help create a unique event to celebrate Florida’s unique culinary delicacy. Nearly a decade after the inaugural event, the Roys feel they’ve achieved their goal. | TASTE TEST | ▼ Café Photo by Deborah Jones The moules au safran at Bouchon in Coral Gables “CORAL GABLES IS A BEAUTIFUL COMMUNITY, AND WE WANT BOUCHON TO BE LIKE THE HUB.”
