14 September 5-11, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Oh, Ortelio! El Mago de las Fritas celebrates 40 years in West Miami. BY BURGER BEAST M iami’s culinary landscape has evolved over the last decade and a half, making it more im- portant than ever to support landmark restaurants. As a lo- cal food writer known as Burger Beast and now a New Times contributor, I’ve made it my mission to share the history of these iconic in- stitutions with the community — one of which is the legendary El Mago de las Fritas. El Mago de las Fritas, nestled on Calle Ocho in West Miami since 1984, is not just a restaurant — it’s a beloved institution and one of the few original testaments left to the time- less appeal of the “Frita Cubana.” Founded by Ortelio Cardenas, affection- ately known as “El Mago” or “the Magician,” this tiny eatery has become synonymous with Miami’s Cuban food culture. But what exactly is a “Frita Cubana?” It might seem like just another hamburger to the uninitiated, but the frita is a culinary palate powerhouse for locals and food lovers alike. A Cuban creation, the frita, in El Mago’s case, is a blend of ground beef, spices, and hot sauce topped with onions and crisp Julienne pota- toes, all sandwiched between a soft Cuban roll. While frita purists might scoff at the idea of adding cheese, El Mago’s frita, with or without cheese, offers a memorable flavor experience. Ortelio’s journey to becoming the “magi- cian” of fritas starts in Jersey. Before becoming a Miami legend, Ortelio lived in New Jersey, far removed from the world of food. His brother-in-law, Victoriano “Benito” Gonzalez, AKA “El Rey de las Fri- tas,” convinced Ortelio to relocate to Miami and help him run a new restaurant in Little Havana. Despite having no experience in the food industry, Ortelio embraced the chal- lenge, learning the ropes from Benito. Ortellio went off to open El Mago de las Fritas a few years later. Located in West Mi- ami, his Cuban comfort food joint gained a reputation for its delicious fritas and the pres- ence of Ortelio, who added to the restaurant’s charm. His dedication to the daily grind and his larger-than-life personality helped El Mago de las Fritas stand out. One of the defining moments in the res- taurant’s history came in October 2010, when then-President Barack Obama made an unex- pected stop at El Mago de las Fritas. The visit was a game-changer, catapulting the small eatery into the national spotlight. Obama’s visit captured what makes eating at El Mago unique — a blend of tradition, community, and delicious food. The day after Obama’s visit, the restaurant was overflowing with customers, and El Mago was alone and overwhelmed. The ex- plosion in popularity led to a shortage of Cu- ban rolls, a crucial component of the frita. I was sitting at the counter that morning when El Mago deputized me. My mission was to buy all of the rolls from the bakeries nearby. Upon returning with bags full of bread, there was no empty seat in the house. The day was chaotic, yet, it showed the com- munity’s deep connection to the restaurant. But the story of El Mago de las Fritas con- tinued after the presidential visit. The frita gained further recognition in 2013, when it was featured on the Travel Channel’s Burger Land, hosted by “Burger Scholar” George Motz. The episode, which highlighted the history and cultural signifi- cance of the “Frita Cubana,” introduced the sandwich — and El Mago — to a global audi- ence. It was a pivotal moment that helped so- lidify the frita’s place in the pantheon of great American regional burger styles. As El Mago de las Fritas celebrates its 40th anniversary on September 8, Ortelio, now 84 years old, reflects on the journey with grati- tude. “The unwavering support from the com- munity has made it all possible,” he says, still showing up at the restaurant daily with a spat- ula in hand. His presence is as much a part of the restaurant’s charm as the fritas themselves. To celebrate this milestone, El Mago is in- troducing a new menu item on Saturday, September 14, that promises to be a hit with loyal customers and newcomers: a classic frita patty mixed with crunchy and salty chicharrón (pork rinds). It’s a nod to the restaurant’s popular Saturday-only treat, chicharrónes. When thinking of El Mago de las Fritas, the power of tradition, community, and the magic of passion and food should come to mind. So, whether you’re a longtime fan or a first-time visitor, a return trip to El Mago to celebrate 40 years should be on your shortlist. El Mago de las Fritas. 5828 SW Eighth St., Miami; 305-266-8486; elmagodelasfritas.com. Open from 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed on Sundays. [email protected] Photo by Burger Beast Ortelio “El Mago” Cardenas gets emotional while speaking on camera about former President Barack Obama’s visit to El Mago de las Fritas. ▼ Café
