14 August 24-30, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | MONTH XX–MONTH XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Home Sweet Home Doma celebrates five years thanks to a dedicated local following. BY MICHELLE MUSLERA W hen Luca Lomonaco opened Doma in Wyn- wood in 2018, he had two goals in mind. The first, in line with the aspirations of most restaurateurs, was to create a space that embraced hospitality at its finest. The second was more focused: Present a modern take on classic Italian dishes that would maintain a familiar essence while tip- ping toward subtle, contemporary twists. As Doma marks its fifth anniversary, Lo- monaco says he feels a sense of accomplish- ment that his initial aspirations continue to define the establishment’s identity in Miami’s fast-growing dining scene. Amid the ever-changing landscape, espe- cially within the Wynwood neighborhood, it’s no accident that Doma has cultivated a dedicated local base — something many es- tablishments strive to do, but few succeed. A self-made restaurateur from northern Italy, Lomonaco began his journey in Miami’s restaurant industry in his early 20s, starting as a busboy and rising to become a skilled waiter and eventually a sommelier. After a stint in San Francisco, Lomonaco returned to Miami, recognizing an opportunity to con- tribute to the local dining scene, and opened Doma at the young age of 30. “Today, most of Doma’s patrons are regu- lars from the local community,” Lomonaco tells New Times. “The winter season is our peak, with many snowbirds who have made Doma a yearly tradition. Come summer, our tables fill with familiar faces, locals who seize the opportunity to drop in on a whim during the quieter season.” Stepping into Doma on any given night, it’s easy to grasp the restaurant’s staying power. Lomonaco himself can often be seen in the dining room making his rounds, personally welcoming guests, many of whom he knows by name. The warm and personable atmo- sphere extends to the staff and stands by the name “doma” — which means “home” in Latin, a choice made by Lomonaco as a testa- ment to his mission. “It reflects our vision for hospitality,” adds Lomonaco. “It’s professional without being stuffy. It’s personal without being too formal. We talk with the guest and seek to under- stand and connect with them.” And there’s the food, a menu beautifully exe- cuted by Italian chef Marco Giug- liano. Straight from the bustling open kitchen to the dining room guests, Doma’s dishes showcase an array of artfully plated fare that embody a traditional foundation while incorporating surprising elements. Take the bucatini cacio e pepe, a well- known dish made especially piquant with the unexpected addition of Szechuan black pep- per. The spice adds a distinctive floral note to the tangle of creamy pasta, while crouton-like wedges of crispy pecorino offer added tex- ture and crunch. But the signature “Soft Egg Alla Nerano,” a simple and indulgent dish, can’t be missed. Here, a poached egg is topped with a rich lamb ragu, a fragrant basil mousse, and a deli- cate Parmesan espuma — one meticulously crafted using a siphon technique that renders the cheese into an airy foam. When it arrives at your table, simply take your spoon, break the egg, and mix it for a triple-threat bite that delivers creamy, tangy, and savory. “We’re always refining our recipes, experi- menting with new techniques, and incorpo- rating novel ingredients to keep our offerings fresh and engaging,” shares Lomonaco. “Our soft egg, for instance, has experienced multi- ple iterations, first being paired with zuc- chini, then roasted pumpkin, and now a shredded ragu.” With each dish and each encounter, Doma continues to embody its founding principles, proving that amidst the dynamic culinary landscape of Miami, a commitment to hospi- tality and culinary excellence remains one of the most important ingredients to success. Moving forward, Lomonaco shares with New Times that he aims to deliver those same principles via a new cocktail lounge called Bako — which means “enjoy” in Latin — sometime in early 2024 in a space next door to Doma. “Of all the accomplishments that Doma has achieved over the years, what I’m most proud of is the dedicated team we’ve built,” sums up Lomonaco. “Their commitment to excellence and service is at the heart of Doma, especially as the industry grows more competitive, with renowned names from New York raising the bar. We feel so fortunate the community has embraced us.” Doma. 35 NE 26th St., Miami; 786-953- 6946; domawynwood.com. Monday through Wednesday 6 to 10:30 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday 6 to 11 p.m. [email protected] ▼ Café Doma photo Doma’s seafood gnocchi with prawns, porcini mushrooms, stracciatella cheese, and pistachio crumble “WE’RE ALWAYS REFINING OUR RECIPES AND INCORPORATING NOVEL INGREDIENTS.” ▼ SOUTH FLORIDA BURGER BEAST CELEBRATES 15 YEARS WITH POP-UP COLLAB On September 12, 2008, Gonzalez posted the first entry to his Miami food blog chronicling website BurgerBeast.com. Now, nearly two decades later, the Miami- born-and-raised blogger has expanded beyond writing, organizing countless food truck events (and setting up the original Guinness World Re- cord for the Largest Parade of Food Trucks) and penning All About the Burger, to creating Mi- ami’s (now closed) Burger Museum and hosting food-focused festivals like Croqueta Palooza. This September, Gonzalez pays homage to his ongoing coverage of the Miami food scene with a series of burger pop-ups, collaborations, and a food-focused scavenger hunt around Westchester. Gonzalez recalls the blog’s inception, one he initially named Now That’s a Tasty Burger — a nod to Samuel L. Jackson’s line in Pulp Fic- tion after he samples a “Big Kahuna” burger during the movie’s apartment scene. For months, Gonzalez ruminated on the idea of starting a food blog, but it wasn’t until he ate a burger that blew his mind that he found true inspiration. Although his uncle had originally sent him to Eastside Pizza to try the meatball sub, it was the restaurant’s home- made burger he fell in love with. “I ended up ordering the “Swiss Alps” burger they advertised as a hand-shaped patty with a house-baked bun topped with mush- rooms and Swiss,” Gonzalez tells New Times. “Back then, you didn’t see mom and pops making burgers like that — or on any menu but a fast food one, for that matter.” He snapped a photo with his Motorola Raz and posted the story; the rest is history. If celebrating alongside Gonzalez sounds like a delicious idea, next month’s “Burger Beast Blo- giversary” series of pop-up events will kick off at Joanna’s Marketplace on Saturday, September 2. The series continues throughout the month with stops at the Westchester Mojo Donuts (Septem- ber 10), Cuban Guys in Hialeah (September 16), Pincho on Flagler (September 23), and El Rey de Las Fritas (September 30). Menu details and times can be found on the Burger Beast blog. “Westchester is where it all started, so it seems fitting for people to try some Burger Beast-approved places and support the com- munity because, at the end of the day, that’s what it’s all about,” shares Gonzalez, who chose to highlight various iconic Miami estab- lishments along Bird Road. A few of the pop-ups will feature Gonza- lez’s “Cruz Diablo” burger, a tribute to his grandfather, and his family’s journey from Cuba to Miami. | TASTE TEST | ▼ Café ▼ SOUTH FLORIDA BURGER BEAST CELEBRATES 15 YEARS WITH POP-UP COLLAB On September 12, 2008, Gonzalez posted the first entry to his Miami food blog chronicling website BurgerBeast.com. Now, nearly two decades later, the Miami- born-and-raised blogger has expanded beyond writing, organizing countless food truck events (and setting up the original Guinness World Re- cord for the Largest Parade of Food Trucks) and penning All About the Burger, to creating Mi- ami’s (now closed) Burger Museum and hosting food-focused festivals like Croqueta Palooza. This September, Gonzalez pays homage to his ongoing coverage of the Miami food scene with a series of burger pop-ups, collaborations, and a food-focused scavenger hunt around Westchester. Gonzalez recalls the blog’s inception, one he initially named Now That’s a Tasty Burger — a nod to Samuel L. Jackson’s line in Pulp Fic- tion after he samples a “Big Kahuna” burger during the movie’s apartment scene. For months, Gonzalez ruminated on the idea of starting a food blog, but it wasn’t until he ate a burger that blew his mind that he found true inspiration. Although his uncle had originally sent him to Eastside Pizza to try the meatball sub, it was the restaurant’s home- made burger he fell in love with. “I ended up ordering the “Swiss Alps” burger they advertised as a hand-shaped patty with a house-baked bun topped with mush- rooms and Swiss,” Gonzalez tells New Times. “Back then, you didn’t see mom and pops making burgers like that — or on any menu but a fast food one, for that matter.” He snapped a photo with his Motorola Raz and posted the story; the rest is history. If celebrating alongside Gonzalez sounds like a delicious idea, next month’s “Burger Beast Blo- giversary” series of pop-up events will kick off at Joanna’s Marketplace on Saturday, September 2. The series continues throughout the month with stops at the Westchester Mojo Donuts (Septem- ber 10), Cuban Guys in Hialeah (September 16), Pincho on Flagler (September 23), and El Rey de Las Fritas (September 30). Menu details and times can be found on the Burger Beast blog. “Westchester is where it all started, so it seems fitting for people to try some Burger Beast-approved places and support the com- munity because, at the end of the day, that’s what it’s all about,” shares Gonzalez, who chose to highlight various iconic Miami estab- lishments along Bird Road. A few of the pop-ups will feature Gonza- lez’s “Cruz Diablo” burger, a tribute to his grandfather, and his family’s journey from Cuba to Miami. | TASTE TEST | ▼ Café
