12 July 18-24, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | ▼ FORT LAUDERDALE B&D TRAP’S TEXAS BARBECUE IS THE REAL DEAL Just off of Sistrunk Boulevard in the Fort Lauderdale neighborhood of Dorsey River- bend lies a barbecue spot that might be one of the best — if not the best — in Florida. And be- fore you ask, “Where is this guy coming from?” and “Who the hell does he think he is making such a bold claim?” I’m New Times contributor Jesse Scott, and my wife is from Texas (which means I know a thing or two about great barbecue). Over the past few years, I’ve barbecue- hopped across the U.S., everywhere from Austin and North Carolina to Charleston and Nashville. During my travels, I have waited in those hours-long lines and have even made reservations weeks in advance for some of the very best, including Rodney Scott’s BBQ in Charleston and Terry Black’s in Austin. Al- though I’ve left satisfied, nothing compares to the feeling that washed over me when I left off-the-cuff spot B&D Trap in Fort Lauder- dale on a random Friday night. Who would’ve thought this hole-in-the-wall joint would be- come one of my favorites not only in Florida but in the entire U.S.? Tucked off Sistrunk Boulevard — the heart and soul of the city that’s rooted in Black his- tory — consider B&D Trap off the beaten path. It’s impossible to miss, with an exterior draped in yellow and red graffiti art made complete with a red fedora-wearing pig as its artsy mascot. The seating here is no fuss, just simple pic- nic tables under a covered turf patio, but the impressive barbecue pit is just the opposite. The star of the show here is the property’s massive pit area where Texas-style meats are smoked. (Texas-style barbecue boils down to dry rubs, low temperatures, and the usage of oak wood for smoking, and here, they excel in all of these qualities.) Rounding out the exte- rior of the spot is a classic window for order- ing takeout. Inside, you’re greeted with another mural featuring the red fedora-wearing pink pig next to diagrams of beef and pork cuts. There’s a window beside the diagrams where you can peek into the kitchen and see the chef and pit master himself, Orelle Young, and his team in action. Alongside operating partner Kevin Rodriguez, the restaurant is the culmi- nation of a nearly two-decades-long culinary journey for Young that has taken him to Dubai, London, and New York City, among other locales. Inside the restaurant, there’s an ordering counter with a soda fountain, a small beer fridge, and a menu bearing meats, wings, sandwiches, combos, sides, and desserts. While simplistic, it’s easy to get lost in all the possibilities — a 24-hour marinated half chicken ($15), 12-14-hour smoked brisket ($15), a pulled pork sandwich topped with ci- lantro-lime coleslaw ($12), and we can go on and on. Combo number six allows you to dab- ble in a little of it all: two quarter-pound meat selections (go for the brisket and turkey) with a side of your choice and a soft drink for $18. The brisket at B&D Trap is tear-worthy good — literally melty, tender, seasoned oak- infused bliss. In true Texas-style fashion, it needs zero sauce, but B&D Trap does have four killer sauces (Alabama, Buffalo, SoFlo, and a signature sauce) to dabble in, if abso- lutely needed. If you need a sauce recommen- dation, the Alabama sauce will not disappoint, no matter what you’re dipping in it. Compared to the brisket, the turkey can taste a hair drier, so you won’t regret the douse here. Oh, I’d be remiss if we didn’t talk about the velvety mac & cheese. (Can we be real for a sec- ond and just say that the majority of mac & cheese offered at most restaurants is lackluster, dry, or an overcomplicated disaster?) Well, at B&D Trap, the mac is thick — like, thick-thick- thick, probably five times thicker than Velveeta — and has a friendly little kick at the end. Between hearty portions of brisket and | TASTE TEST | ▼ Café Photo by Jesse Scott The brisket, mac & cheese, and banana bread pudding spread at B&D Trap.
