10 July 17-23, 2025 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | NEWS | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Lasagna Rules At 3190, Giulio Rossi offers precisely one entrée. BY RACHEL COSTA A s a young ballerina in training, chef Giulio Rossi’s daughter would only eat one thing be- fore training. Chef Rossi could offer a plethora of dishes, but she only replied “Si, papa” when he would of- fer his homemade lasagna. Today, she is the prima ballerina at the Royal Opera in Madrid, and the lasagna she cherished throughout her entire childhood has become the only dish at the new Coconut Grove restaurant, 3190. 3190, named after its address, is 84 Magic Hospitality’s third restaurant in Miami. It fol- lows the group’s opening of Cotoletta, which won New Times’ Best Restaurant (Coconut Grove) 2025, a quaint Italian restaurant in Co- conut Grove that serves only one main dish, cotoletta alla Milanese. It also follows the opening of San Lorenzo, a menuless restau- rant tucked away in Little River where diners can only choose between carne or pesce. “I’m a big believer that the opportunity and the desire to do something have to hap- pen in a way that feels effortless,” restaura- teur and chef Giulio’s nephew Andrea Fraquelli tells New Times. After knocking on the door of the closed venue just around the corner from Cotoletta, he found that Matt Kush of Kush Hospitality owned the space. In a joint venture, the venue became 3190. “Co- toletta has been such a blessing, I’m so happy it’s so busy that having something small and cute, where we could host people for a drink without changing what was the core beauty of Cotoletta and the simplicity of it, it was a no-brainer.” Staying true to the 84 Magic Hospitality signature, choice is still the “enemy of the modern world,” so 3190 only serves a single dish with plenty of heart behind it. The 24- seat, intimate wine bar only serves chef Ros- si’s beloved “Si Papa” lasagna, about 12 wine options from the team’s favorite parts of Italy, and a decadent tiramisu. As a way to cater to a broad community, the menu includes chef Rossi’s popular bolognese lasagna, which is one of the popular sides often served at Coto- letta — for the Bolognese pasta— or the vege- tarian option, both costing $15. Designed to be a “if you know, you know” fun place where everyone knows your name, this third opening is the group’s gift to its loyal community, who trust their kitchen to serve simple comfort food yet perfectly exe- cuted. “We’ve now opened three restau- rants,” says Fraquelli. “We haven’t got a traditional restaurant’s menu among the three restaurants. We have a handful of items in San Lorenzo, we have one item and some appetizers in Cotoletta, and then we have the two lasagnas in 3190. While uncle Giulio’s repertoire of dishes isn’t that extensive, what he does cook, he cooks with love for people he cares about.” While shy chef Rossi prefers to be behind the kitchen counter, Fraquelli tells New Times that at 64 years old, seeing Miami em- brace the dishes he once cooked for his daughters has given him a whole lease of life. “This is a topic that can get me very emotional, but he retired after we were fin- ished with our restaurant venture in London and went home,” he recalls. “Now he’s im- mensely proud. He’s the shyest, most hum- ble, unassuming man you’ll ever meet, which is fun because I can’t stop mentioning him. But I do know he’s very proud because he sends the articles to his daughters, and I see how proud they are of him, and he’s such a good father. We couldn’t do it without him.” Since opening Co- toletta in October 2024, partners Igna- cio Lopez Manci- sidor, Mattia Cicognani, and third- generation restaurateur Fraquelli of 84 Magic Hospitality have seen great success across their restaurants. Except that the team doesn’t just measure success by revenue, which perhaps is the exact reason why Mi- ami loves its restaurants. “Success is in what people feel when they step into our restaurants,” says Fraquelli. “I think we do things with so much passion that you can’t not feel it. We are at the back end of a whole generation that’s forgotten to do that, so I see the older generation remembering what it was like to go to restaurants in the 90s, and I’m seeing youngsters realize this is how restaurants always worked. The owner was always around; he often had partners or family members, and you knew who they were; they knew who you were. It wasn’t a huge, multi-million-dollar investment. It wasn’t designed just to make money.” Imple- menting this philosophy in all his restaurants, where people go back to the good old days of phone calls for reservations and where own- ers know all of their diners, the group has built a community in Miami. After the group’s third opening in less than a year since the group arrived in Miami, Fraquelli and the team are now focusing on cultivating the restaurants and community they have built. While executing more ideas for the recently opened San Lorenzo and get- ting 3190 to its full potential, Fraquelli still has one dream: taking his Miami-made Cotoletta to the Big Apple with his uncle. “I’m incredi- bly lucky to have landed here,” Fraquelli says with a smile. “I’m in love with Miami, it’s my home, and I’ve had a baby here now. So we will always be a Miami-made restaurant be- cause Miamians came, and they are the ones that have made us exactly who we are today.” 3190 is open Tuesday through Thursday from 5:30 to 10 p.m., Friday from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Saturday from noon to 3 p.m. and 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 3 p.m. and 5:30 to 9 p.m. Walk-ins only; no reserva- tions (for now, anyway). 3190. 3190 Commodore Plz., Coconut Grove; instagram.com/sipapa.3190. [email protected] ▼ Café Photo by Gaby Cuadra A new Italian wine bar and restaurant, 3190, opens in Coconut Grove. It serves lasagna, wine, and tiramisu prepared by the founders of Cotoletta and San Lorenzo in Miami. “WHAT HE DOES COOK, HE COOKS WITH LOVE FOR PEOPLE HE CARES ABOUT.”
