13 July 6-12, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | Last Call Michelin-honored Chef’s Counter to leave Hachidori to begin anew. BY NICOLE DANNA I f you haven’t had the chance to dine at Chef’s Counter, formerly known as Ko- jin, at the back of Hachidori Ramen Bar, now’s the time. The husband-and-wife chef team re- cently announced they would take their be- loved restaurant that began as a temporary pop-up to expand into a new location with a more modern menu. In 2021, Chef’s Counter founders Pedro Mederos and Katherine Mederos launched Kojin in a clandestine space inside the popu- lar ramen restaurant in Little River, an idea that originally was meant to operate as a three-month pop-up. When the concept caught on, the couple decided to keep it go- ing, dubbing it Chef’s Counter at Hachidori. For the past few years, the intimate eight- seat restaurant and sake bar — where Pedro serves as both executive chef and beverage director and Katherine as executive pastry chef — has aimed to deliver a traditional washoku experience inspired by the Japa- nese practice of honoring the skills, knowl- edge, and traditions of serving of food with respect to nature and the seasons. With Chef’s Counter, an omakase-like ex- perience allows guests to witness the prepa- ration of their meal firsthand, form a personal bond with the team behind the bar, and enjoy a curated culinary experience. That simple philosophy recently earned the restaurant a spot on Miami’s 2023 Michelin Guide. As they approach their second anniversary, the couple tells New Times they are looking forward to growing their business, with plans to take the concept to the next level. Next month, Chef’s Counter will leave its Hachidori home base to launch a new con- cept. The last day of service will be Friday, July 28, allowing one month for customers to book a seat at the one-of-a-kind Japanese din- ing experience before it evolves into its next iteration the couple promises will be entirely different from the Japanese cuisine they’ve offered with Kojin and Chef’s Counter. “This past year, our family has grown, and with that, we want to expand our business. In order to continue to grow, we have to say goodbye to our current space so that we can put all of our focus into something bigger and better,” says Pedro. Their new location will be in Coral Gables, a move the couple says is closer to their home, making it easier for them to be more accessi- ble to guests. And while Chef’s Counter at Hachidori focused on Japanese cuisine, the new con- cept will soon serve modern American dishes, allowing the couple to get creative. “It will allow us full culinary freedom with our dishes, as we will no longer be restricted to only Japanese cuisine,” explains Kather- ine. “But, much like our current space, the entire experience is centered around the kitchen and watching the kitchen team do their thing.” Katherine promises the new space will continue to offer an intimate experience that gives guests an inside look at the kitchen while dining. A large 22-seat counter will al- low more guests to take in the behind-the- scenes action, while large parties can reserve the large communal table that also offers a di- rect view of the kitchen. Following their departure, the original Chef’s Counter space hidden in the back of Hachidori Ramen Bar will remain under the operation of Hachidori, with plans to reopen with a new experience in the fall. In the meantime, reservations can be made online at hachidorichefscounter.com. The six- course menu costs $85 per person, and a full eight-course culinary experience costs $120 per person. When Chef’s Counter closes, an online re- tail store will allow people to buy items they love from Chef’s Counter at Hachidori. High- lights include a housemade “Kojin Pep,” their famous umami butter, lemon verbena vinegar, and soda syrups (for cocktails and non-alco- holic drinks). The store will also offer a whole wheat sourdough starter kit that can be used to ferment both kombucha and vinegar, as well as zero-waste products like UCO (used cooking oil) soap and punt glasses (glass cups made from old wine and sake bottles). Chef’s Counter at Hachidori. 8222 NE Sec- ond Ave., Miami; 305-587-9775; hachidorichef- scounter.com. Tuesday through Saturday 6 to 10 p.m. [email protected] ▼ Café Chef’s Counter at Hachidori photo Chef’s Counter was recognized in the 2023 Michelin Guide for its approach to washoku- inspired dining. “THIS PAST YEAR, OUR FAMILY HAS GROWN, AND WITH THAT, WE WANT TO EXPAND OUR BUSINESS.” ▼ HOLLYWOOD OOMPH! CRAFTS SOUTH FLORIDA’S FIRST NONALCOHOLIC BEER South Florida’s first exclusive nonalcoholic craft beer brewing operation has launched in Hollywood. Longtime Florida-based brewer Bobby Gordash, formerly of Holy Mackerel Small Batch Beers, is the man behind the Mindful Drinking Project and its first flagship offering, Oomph! Hazy IPA. With the sober-curious trend that has emerged in the past few years, you’ve proba- bly heard a story like Gordash’s. He cut back on drinking to find healthier hobbies and was un- impressed by the nonalcoholic beverage op- tions available to him. But unlike his large-scale, zero-proof com- petitors, Gordash says he plans to use his years of brewing experience to create a local product that’s both full of flavor and better for you than the nonalcoholic competition. South Florida beer lovers might remember Gordash from Holy Mackerel’s “Panic Attack,” the beer he founded nearly 20 years ago. Gordash began home-brewing in 1993 after purchasing a kit from Sharper Image. The part- time hobby grew into a passion, and his kit morphed from one gallon to five. In 1996, he entered the Samuel Adams Longshot Ameri- can Homebrew Competition, eventually win- ning the contest for his “Bob’s Flywater Ale” Gordash used the prize money to invest in his home-brew setup and began experimenting with Belgian-style ales, kegging and bottling his own beer. | TASTE TEST | ▼ Café Photo by Nicole Danna Mindful Beer Project founder Bobby Gordash holds a can of his nonalcoholic craft beer. >> p14 MONTH XX–MONTH XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | Last Call Michelin-honored Chef’s Counter to leave Hachidori to begin anew. BY NICOLE DANNA I f you haven’t had the chance to dine at Chef’s Counter, formerly known as Ko- jin, at the back of Hachidori Ramen Bar, now’s the time. The husband-and-wife chef team re- cently announced they would take their be- loved restaurant that began as a temporary pop-up to expand into a new location with a more modern menu. In 2021, Chef’s Counter founders Pedro Mederos and Katherine Mederos launched Kojin in a clandestine space inside the popu- lar ramen restaurant in Little River, an idea that originally was meant to operate as a three-month pop-up. When the concept caught on, the couple decided to keep it go- ing, dubbing it Chef’s Counter at Hachidori. For the past few years, the intimate eight- seat restaurant and sake bar — where Pedro serves as both executive chef and beverage director and Katherine as executive pastry chef — has aimed to deliver a traditional washoku experience inspired by the Japa- nese practice of honoring the skills, knowl- edge, and traditions of serving of food with respect to nature and the seasons. With Chef’s Counter, an omakase-like ex- perience allows guests to witness the prepa- ration of their meal firsthand, form a personal bond with the team behind the bar, and enjoy a curated culinary experience. That simple philosophy recently earned the restaurant a spot on Miami’s 2023 Michelin Guide. As they approach their second anniversary, the couple tells New Times they are looking forward to growing their business, with plans to take the concept to the next level. Next month, Chef’s Counter will leave its Hachidori home base to launch a new con- cept. The last day of service will be Friday, July 28, allowing one month for customers to book a seat at the one-of-a-kind Japanese din- ing experience before it evolves into its next iteration the couple promises will be entirely different from the Japanese cuisine they’ve offered with Kojin and Chef’s Counter. “This past year, our family has grown, and with that, we want to expand our business. In order to continue to grow, we have to say goodbye to our current space so that we can put all of our focus into something bigger and better,” says Pedro. Their new location will be in Coral Gables, a move the couple says is closer to their home, making it easier for them to be more accessi- ble to guests. And while Chef’s Counter at Hachidori focused on Japanese cuisine, the new con- cept will soon serve modern American dishes, allowing the couple to get creative. “It will allow us full culinary freedom with our dishes, as we will no longer be restricted to only Japanese cuisine,” explains Kather- ine. “But, much like our current space, the entire experience is centered around the kitchen and watching the kitchen team do their thing.” Katherine promises the new space will continue to offer an intimate experience that gives guests an inside look at the kitchen while dining. A large 22-seat counter will al- low more guests to take in the behind-the- scenes action, while large parties can reserve the large communal table that also offers a di- rect view of the kitchen. Following their departure, the original Chef’s Counter space hidden in the back of Hachidori Ramen Bar will remain under the operation of Hachidori, with plans to reopen with a new experience in the fall. In the meantime, reservations can be made online at hachidorichefscounter.com. The six- course menu costs $85 per person, and a full eight-course culinary experience costs $120 per person. When Chef’s Counter closes, an online re- tail store will allow people to buy items they love from Chef’s Counter at Hachidori. High- lights include a housemade “Kojin Pep,” their famous umami butter, lemon verbena vinegar, and soda syrups (for cocktails and non-alco- holic drinks). The store will also offer a whole wheat sourdough starter kit that can be used to ferment both kombucha and vinegar, as well as zero-waste products like UCO (used cooking oil) soap and punt glasses (glass cups made from old wine and sake bottles). Chef’s Counter at Hachidori. 8222 NE Sec- ond Ave., Miami; 305-587-9775; hachidorichef- scounter.com. Tuesday through Saturday 6 to 10 p.m. [email protected] ▼ Café Chef’s Counter at Hachidori photo Chef’s Counter was recognized in the 2023 Michelin Guide for its approach to washoku- inspired dining. “THIS PAST YEAR, OUR FAMILY HAS GROWN, AND WITH THAT, WE WANT TO EXPAND OUR BUSINESS.” ▼ HOLLYWOOD OOMPH! CRAFTS SOUTH FLORIDA’S FIRST NONALCOHOLIC BEER South Florida’s first exclusive nonalcoholic craft beer brewing operation has launched in Hollywood. Longtime Florida-based brewer Bobby Gordash, formerly of Holy Mackerel Small Batch Beers, is the man behind the Mindful Drinking Project and its first flagship offering, Oomph! Hazy IPA. With the sober-curious trend that has emerged in the past few years, you’ve proba- bly heard a story like Gordash’s. He cut back on drinking to find healthier hobbies and was un- impressed by the nonalcoholic beverage op- tions available to him. But unlike his large-scale, zero-proof com- petitors, Gordash says he plans to use his years of brewing experience to create a local product that’s both full of flavor and better for you than the nonalcoholic competition. South Florida beer lovers might remember Gordash from Holy Mackerel’s “Panic Attack,” the beer he founded nearly 20 years ago. Gordash began home-brewing in 1993 after purchasing a kit from Sharper Image. The part- time hobby grew into a passion, and his kit morphed from one gallon to five. In 1996, he entered the Samuel Adams Longshot Ameri- can Homebrew Competition, eventually win- ning the contest for his “Bob’s Flywater Ale” Gordash used the prize money to invest in his home-brew setup and began experimenting with Belgian-style ales, kegging and bottling his own beer. | TASTE TEST | ▼ Café Photo by Nicole Danna Mindful Beer Project founder Bobby Gordash holds a can of his nonalcoholic craft beer. >>p14
