11 May 18-24, 2023 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | Month XX–Month XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | Bite the Big Apple Pastis opens in Wynwood with Parisian fare and New York flair. BY LAINE DOSS N ew York is having a Miami moment. In the past few years, Miami has seen an increased infusion of New York money and cul- ture. A perfect storm of low taxes, lower- priced (than New York) real estate, and a balmy climate have been the major attrac- tants for New Yorkers to permanently make the “sixth borough” home. Seeing the same opportunities (and an in- stant audience), New York-based restaura- teurs have been migrating south. Major Food Group’s Carbone was an instant sensation when it opened last year, Cote was handed a Michelin star for its Miami restaurant, and Rao’s — a New York establishment famous for the fact that you’ll never be able to secure a reservation — plans to open in Miami Beach. So, it wasn’t a total surprise when restau- rateurs Stephen Starr and Keith McNally an- nounced plans to bring Pastis to Miami’s Wynwood neighborhood. But, of all these New York darlings, Pastis is — and has always been — different. The original Pastis (which opened in early 2000, closed in 2014, and reopened a stone’s throw away in 2019) made its home in Man- hattan’s Meatpacking District back when workers wearing bloody white aprons slung carcasses from the wholesale butchers that gave the neighborhood its name. Although celebrities embraced it, its roots were that of the noble-yet-humble French bistro: an egali- tarian establishment designed to provide good food and drink in a convivial setting. The restaurant’s warm globe lights wel- comed everyone in those heady first years of the new millennium. Yes, the burgers were de- licious, the French onion soup piping hot, and the wine cold — but the New York bistro be- came a sensation for more than its food and drink. It was a place where you felt anything could happen. Pastis starred in an episode of Sex and the City where Aleksandr Petrovsky and Carrie Bradshaw canoodled over oysters, The Sopranos’ James Gandolfini would hang out at the bar, and Cher filmed a music video on the cobblestone streets just outside its doors. But it was also a restaurant that welcomed ev- eryday New Yorkers with open arms: spend a thousand dollars or just come in for some frites and a beer at the bar. Pastis was loved by all. In the early 2000s, I had a part in a not-so- great off-Broadway show. Every single Friday evening, I would throw on jeans and run out of the theater, stage makeup still on, and hop on the subway downtown to Pastis. Pastis was always the first stop for a glass of wine and shrimp from the raw bar. I had a friend who purchased the smallest apartment I had ever encountered across the street, and I adopted the neighborhood as my own. Even though I would frequent other restaurants like Florent, Mrkt, Rhone, and even Hogs and Heifers, Pastis was my home base. I’ve lived in Miami for well over a decade, but every time I go back home to New York, I visit Pastis. The last time I was there, I spotted a very famous Food Network celebrity having lunch, rosé wine flowing at the table. The time before, I was enjoying a platter of oysters and a glass of wine as a woman showed me her book of poems dedicated to war victims in Ukraine. Pastis continues to attract all New Yorkers with their quirky fabulousness. When I heard that Keith McNally and Ste- phen Starr would open Pastis in Wynwood, I had a healthy dose of skepticism. Though these were two of the savviest restaurateurs in the country, would they “Miamify” my be- loved Pastis (which, in itself, is a New York version of a Parisian bistro)? I got my answer late last month. I walked through the brick archway, past the familiar logo, and through the doors. I took in the tiled floor, the warm lighting from the globe lights, the dark wood bar, and the patined mirrors. For a second, I was disoriented. This room was such an exact replica of the New York Pastis that a strong frisson of déjà vu ran through my body. Years of fond memories and sheets of homesickness washed over me as I started tearing up. This iteration of Pastis is so perfect, it’s rivaled only by Taylor Swift’s ability to re-record her music catalog in mak- ing a copy that’s as good (or better) than the original version. For those who wonder why the Miami Pas- tis isn’t more “tailored” to its Wynwood sur- roundings, partner Stephen Starr explains. “Pastis is based on a timeless mythical restau- rant in France,” he tells New Times. Starr adds that Wynwood does remind him of Pastis’ original home. “What drew me to Wynwood years ago was that it reminded me, in some Miami way, of New York City’s Meatpacking District. When I first started going there ten years ago, the area was filled with warehouses and artists. It was remote but had tremendous potential. When it came time to think about Pastis in Miami, that memory from years ago was still there. While the neighborhood had developed, it still had that off-kilter feel to it.” A nod to Miami culture — and our damn fine weather — is Pastis’ outdoor patio. Says Starr, “Part of the allure of Miami is its warm weather, so the only thing that felt appropriate to this city was creating a unique outdoor din- ing experience. We were fortunate to find a space where we could really build out a beauti- ful patio garden with its own outdoor bar.” Even so, take a good look at the outdoor bar: instead of palms and bougainvillea, the small trees and vines are more suited to a vineyard in the Champagne region of France than a pa- tio in Miami. Though the res- taurant had just opened about 15 minutes earlier a few Sundays ago, the dining room was al- ready about half full, and we chose the last two seats at the indoor bar. Our bartender, Bo, placed down two place- mats that serve as menus. Pastis serves a con- cise selection of bistro favorites such as oysters, moules frites, French onion soup, an oversize burger, and salads. The menu is large enough to make everyone in your party happy, and small enough to not take a year to peruse. The bar holds the same philosophy with a list of about a dozen specialty cocktails and a handful of wines by the glass. While perusing the menu, I ordered “Le Petite Pickle,” a half-sized vodka martini garnished with a cornichon and pick- led vegetable. The slightly briny, four-sip cock- tail is the perfect starter to an evening without committing to a larger beverage. Pastis Miami’s executive chef, Neil O’Connell, executes the menu — which is nearly identical to that of the New York res- taurant. The French onion soup was filled with sweet onions and topped with a crown of toasted gruyere cheese with the requisite cheese pull. The flash-fried artichokes, served with garlic aioli, were crisp on the out- side, with a tender heart inside. It’s also easy to enjoy a meal here while frugal, unlike some other Miami restaurants with New York origins. The chicken paillard, which comes with a side salad and takes up an entire oversized platter, costs $24. An order of ravioli ($16) is listed under the hors d’ oeuvres section and is easily large enough to serve as an entrée. That’s not to say Miami ballers can’t rack up a big bill with the ▼ Café Photo by Joshua Perez Crêpe complète at Pastis ($23) IT’S EASY TO ENJOY A MEAL HERE WHILE FRUGAL, UNLIKE SOME OTHER MIAMI RESTAURANTS WITH NEW YORK ORIGINS. >> p12
