15 April 17-April 23, 2025 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | NEWS | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | CAFE | MUSIC | GENUINE ARTICLE After 18 years, Michael’s Genuine remains a Miami staple. BY MICHELLE MUSLERA B efore the Design District became Miami’s go-to luxury shopping and dining destination, it was a quiet neighborhood of empty streets and art galleries — a place where few would have imagined a restaurant thriving. But in 2007, Philadelphia-born chef Michael Schwartz took a chance on a quiet part of town, helping lay the groundwork for what would become a new chapter in Mi- ami’s dining scene. His gamble paid off — nearly 18 years later, Michael’s Genuine is still going strong, a rare constant in a city known for turnover. From Ghost Town to Dining Hotspot Back in 2007, Miami’s dining scene was mostly happening across the bridge in South Beach, where nightlife and club-like restau- rants such as China Grill dominated the area. Opening on the mainland of Miami-Dade, in an overlooked part of town, felt risky. “A lot of people thought I was crazy,” Schwartz re- calls. But the lower rents and untapped po- tential were appealing. Michael’s Genuine was a clear departure from the scene across the causeway. Inspired by American brasseries, it was comfortable, ingredient-driven, and anchored by a bar and open kitchen. No velvet ropes or bottle ser- vice—just thoughtful food and genuine hospi- tality. From the start, the mission was simple: no gimmicks, just great food. Schwartz built close relationships with local farmers and fishermen, letting the ingredients dictate the menu. Miami’s lack of defined seasons made sourcing a challenge, but it also forced cre- ativity. If a farm had a bumper crop of toma- toes, he’d find three different ways to use them. That flexible, produce-first philosophy helped shape the restaurant’s identity and eventually earned Schwartz national recogni- tion. In 2010, he won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: South. Reinventing a Classic— Without Losing Its Soul In 2021, Michael’s Genuine closed for a four- month renovation. It returned with a larger, sleeker dining room, a refreshed outdoor ter- race, and a polished look that matched the neighborhood’s evolution. But despite the facelift, the heart of the restaurant remained unchanged. “A restaurant is a long-term proposition,” Schwartz says. “It’s not just about opening with a splash. The challenge is staying consistent, keeping people engaged, and evolving without losing sight of what made you special to begin with.” That balance shows up on the menu, which changes daily depending on what local farms and purveyors are offering. Still, some dishes have earned permanent spots, like the pork belly with kimchi and the crispy pig ears that went from sleeper hit to star after a nod from Anthony Bourdain. Comfort has always been part of the ap- peal, but Schwartz isn’t afraid to challenge diners. Alongside crowd-pleasers, he’ll slip in dishes like beef tongue, venison, or tropical fruits like soursop — flavors that push past the expected without alienating guests. While the restaurant’s burger has developed a loyal following, Schwartz is clear: if half the menu turned into burgers, they’d be doing something wrong. The goal isn’t just to please — it’s to expand palates, one dish at a time. A Breeding Ground for Miami’s Culinary Talent Over the years, the kitchen at Michael Schwartz’s restaurant has launched the ca- reers of a generation of chefs who’ve gone on to shape Miami’s dining scene. Alumni like Niven Patel, who went on to open restaurants such as Ghee and Erba, took the restaurant’s local sourcing ethos even further — growing much of his own produce at his farm, Rancho Patel. Patel was even named Best Chef 2024 by New Times. Michael Beltran, now at the helm of Mi- chelin-starred Ariete in Coconut Grove, blends South Florida ingredients with French technique and Latin flavors, a signature style that also traces its roots back to Schwartz’s influence. While many alumni have struck out on their own, a core group of longtime team members has stayed on — none more notably than Randy Zuniga. After years in the kitchen, he now helms it as executive chef. That continuity has helped preserve the res- taurant’s identity, keeping its standards high and its original spirit intact. Miami’s Dining Boom — But at What Cost? As Miami’s dining scene has exploded with celebrity-chef concepts and multimillion- dollar investments, indepe ndent operators face mounting pressure. While new high- profile openings grab headlines, the chal- lenge of maintaining consistency and identity remains just as crucial for long-established spots like Michael’s Genuine. “We’re not looking to expand right now,” Schwartz says. “We’re just focused on keep- ing Michael’s Genuine the best it can be. That’s what has allowed us to get better over time.” When discussing Miami’s culinary trends and the city’s next up-and-coming neighbor- hoods, Schwartz points to Little River as the new frontier. “It reminds me of what the De- sign District was years ago. There’s a lot of ex- citing stuff happening there — restaurants like Sunny’s, which started as a pop-up and now has a full-fledged space. The area is still underserved, and there’s room to grow.” But while Miami’s restaurant boom is ex- citing, it’s not without challenges. The rise of chef-driven concepts is promising, but the in- flux of deep-pocketed, out-of-town restau- rant groups makes it harder for independent operators to thrive. “There’s room for every- thing — Miami will always have its ‘clubstau- rants’ (club-like restaurants), and that’s fine,’” Schwartz says. “But I’d love to see more thoughtful, consistent restaurants, not just flashy $20 million build-outs.” The Legacy of Michael’s Genuine At its core, Michael’s Genuine has endured because it has stayed true to itself — quality food, genuine hospitality, and an uncompro- mising commitment to consistency. “We rein- force our values every day,” he says. “It’s about making sure our team understands what makes us who we are and keeping that alive as we evolve.” For Schwartz, the long-term goal remains simple: “Dialing it in, keeping it consistent, and always finding a way to keep things fresh and exciting.” Michael’s Genuine. 130 NE 40th St., Miami; 305-676-0894; michaelsgenuine.com. [email protected] ▼ Cafe Cafe The Genuine Hospitality Group photo Michael’s Genuine by chef Michael Schwartz, founded in 2007 in the Miami Design District, thrives 18 years later thanks to evolving menus and consistency.
