11 March 27 - april 2, 2025 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | Wan’s of a Kind A beloved Fort Lauderdale Chinese restaurant is reborn. BY CLARISSA BUCH ZILBERMAN L ess than five months after a be- loved Fort Lauderdale Chinese restaurant closed its doors after 28 years, the founder’s great-grand- son has revived it for a whole new generation. After nearly three decades in Victoria Park, Christina Wan’s unexpectedly bid fare- well to longtime customers in November 2024. However, thanks to fourth-generation restaurateur Alex Kuk, the beloved Chinese restaurant is returning triumphantly under its original name — Wan’s. But Kuk isn’t just any South Florida restaurateur. His great- grandfather founded the original Wan’s Man- darin House over 55 years ago, a beacon of the family’s culinary heritage, and he is the nephew of the founder of Christina Wan’s. Now, he is de- termined the restau- rant, which he calls home, lives on. Wan’s opens on Wednesday, March 19, in the same loca- tion it has called home for nearly 30 years. Kuk, who is the cofounder of the popular Asian spot Temple Street Eatery in Fort Lauderdale alongside chef Diego Ng, is spearheading Wan’s revival with a renewed focus on tradition and qual- ity. “It’s a place where my grandfather’s cus- tomers can still come for a great sit-down, homemade meal, but at the same time, our generation can enjoy a drink at the bar,” Kuk says. “Drinks will be flowing, music will be popping, but it’s still a family-run restaurant.” The reopening marks not just a comeback for the restaurant but a continuation of a leg- acy that dates back to the 1960s, when the Wan family first introduced their Mandarin, Szechuan, and Cantonese specialties to South Florida diners. For Kuk, reopening Wan’s wasn’t just a business decision — but a deeply personal one. “My great-grandfather came to the United States without speaking English and opened his first restaurant on Calle Ocho. My grand- parents took over, and then my aunt. When she retired, I realized I couldn’t let this family legacy disappear. It would be a part of me dy- ing. So, while it wasn’t part of the plan, it’s something I just had to do.” Wan’s will still serve the classic dishes longtime customers have cherished, espe- cially its standout Peking duck and fall-off- the-bone ribs. “Rain or shine, here we come,” Kuk says. “Friends and family have already told us the ribs taste better than ever, and the Peking duck is amazing.” That extra boost in flavor? Kuk credits it to a major equipment upgrade. “Chef and I searched all over Florida for a proper Chinese duck smoker. We finally found one in Orlando, rented a U-Haul, and hauled it back ourselves. The difference is incredible.” Beyond the menu, Wan’s has been re- freshed with a lively atmosphere, an up- graded sound system, and a fresh coat of paint. “It’s still a mom-and-pop restaurant at heart,” Kuk explains. “But now, it’s a place where my great-grandfather’s customers can enjoy a sit-down meal just as much as younger generations can grab a drink at the bar or order takeout.” That history is reflected in the restaurant’s walls, which feature family photos that tell the story of Wan’s journey through the de- cades. The Wan family’s history in the South Florida dining scene spans nearly 60 years. Originally opened along Southwest Eighth Street in Little Havana, Miami, as Wan’s Mandarin House in the late 1960s, the restau- rant built a loyal following, eventually ex- panding to North Miami Beach, Hollywood, and Fort Lauderdale. The Fort Lauderdale lo- cation, which opened at 1201 N. Federal Hwy. in 1986 before moving to its current spot at 664 N. Federal Hwy. in 1996, became a local staple under Kuk’s aunt, Christina Wan. Over the years, the restaurant has won over generations of families with its expertly crafted Mandarin, Szechuan, and Cantonese specialties. From housemade dumplings and crispy egg rolls to Cantonese fried rice and sweet and sour chicken, the menu is a testament to classic Chinese flavors. In 2008, New Times Broward-Palm Beach recognized the restaurant as the Best Chinese Restaurant in Broward. With the reopening, Kuk aims to balance preserving the past and embracing the future. His goal is to keep the menu as traditional as possible, as this is what diners have loved for decades. However, in doing so, he is also making the space more modern with small upgrades. Nevertheless, at its core, Wan’s remains a place for everyone. “Whether you want a home-cooked meal like my grandmother used to make, a great date spot, or just a ca- sual place for takeout, Wan’s is for everyone.” Just in time for spring, longtime patrons and newcomers alike can once again enjoy the comforting, authentic Chinese cuisine that made Wan’s a household name in South Florida. Wan’s. 664 N. Federal Hwy., Fort Lauderdale; instagram.com/wans.fl. [email protected] ▼ Café Photo by Alex Kuk The updated dining room of Wan’s in the Victoria Park neighborhood of Fort Lauderdale feels familiar, yet elevated. “WHEN SHE RETIRED, I REALIZED I COULDN’T LET THIS FAMILY LEGACY DISAPPEAR. IT WOULD BE A PART OF ME DYING.”
