21 March 20-26, 2025 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | Contents | Letters | news | night+Day | CuLture | Cafe | MusiC | Month XX–Month XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | CONTENTS | LETTERS | RIPTIDE | METRO | NIGHT+DAY | STAGE | ART | FILM | CAFE | MUSIC | Life of Pie 22-year-old Rafaele Carfora is redefining pizza at Il Pizzaiolo. BY MICHELLE MUSLERA W ashington Avenue in South Beach isn’t exactly known for its culinary authenticity. It’s a strip lined with neon-lit tour- ist traps, places where an oversized frozen daiquiri often outshines the food. And yet, in this stretch of predictable fare, Il Pizzaiolo has arrived with a mission: to serve authentic Neapolitan pizza but with a twist — one that represents a new generation of pizza chefs. Leading the kitchen is Rafaele Carfora, a 22-year-old pizza chef from Naples whose un- expected journey brought him to South Beach, where he gained the opportunity of a lifetime. Carfora’s love for baking started early, watching his grandmother make bread in Na- ples, Italy. By the age of 13, he was helping out in the kitchen at a friend’s pizza delivery com- pany, shaping dough and learning the ropes. By 15, he was making 500 pizzas a day. At 16, he left school to dedicate himself to the craft fully; by 17, he was running a pizzeria on his own. After two years, the pressure of leadership, however, proved overwhelming. “I was 19, and I didn’t have time to see my friends, go out, or even spend time with my girlfriend. I had the entire weight of the restaurant on my shoulders at such a young age,” he recalls to New Times. His fa- ther, sensing his burn- out, suggested a change of scenery. “He told me to go to Miami, take a break, and find my own path. And, well, Miami seemed like the perfect place to do that.” For a few years, Carfora worked at local Miami pizzerias, keeping a low profile. Then he caught the attention of First Class Hospi- tality Group, a Miami-based company owned by three Neapolitans with 18 restaurants fea- turing Italian, Cuban, and Colombian influ- ences. They hired him to make bread for their restaurants, but upon learning of his pizza pedigree, they proposed a new venture: their first dedicated pizzeria, with Carfora in charge. Thus, Il Pizzaiolo was born. Opened in early February, the restaurant is unapologetically Neapolitan but distinctly contemporary. Carfora’s pizzas undergo a 24- hour preparation process, resulting in a highly hydrated, easy-to-digest dough. Unlike traditional Neapolitan pies, which bake at 500 degrees Celsius for a minute, his cook at a lower temperature and double the time, lock- ing in moisture. He sources everything from Italy — high-quality Casillo flour from Na- ples, San Marzano tomatoes, and Fior di Latte from Italy’s esteemed Latteria Sorrentina. The result? A pizza that stays true to Neapoli- tan tradition with a raised, blistered crust, a center thin as a page, and a dough that re- mains light and easy on the stomach. One-third of the menu is dedicated to clas- sic Neapolitan staples, but Carfora’s personal touch is evident in the modern section, where he experiments with flavors and inspirations. Guests can even customize their pies, opting for whole-grain, gluten-free, or extra-charred crusts to suit their preferences. A standout is the “Maradona” pizza, a trib- ute to the late Argentinian soccer legend who became an icon in Naples. Inspired by an old interview in which Maradona recalled falling in love with Neapolitan street food after try- ing sausage and peppers from a street vendor, Carfora reimagines those flavors on a pizza. The pie features sliced sausage, roasted bell peppers, and tomato sauce, with the crust’s edge stuffed with creamy mozzarella. Other signature offerings take cues from traditional pasta dishes. His carbonara pie, for example, avoids the common approach of cracking a raw egg on top. Instead, he steams the carbonara sauce separately, crisps the guanciale while the pie is baking, and assem- bles the elements only after the pizza emerges from the oven. There’s also a cacio e pepe pizza, a nod to the Roman classic with Pecorino Romano and Parmesan cheese. Another standout creation is the “Ton- nata,” a pizza that leans into Miami’s love for lighter, fresher flavors. Carfora starts by lightly searing fresh tuna coated in white and black sesame seeds. The base is a crisp, airy focaccia layered with avocado cream sea- soned with salt, pepper, and lemon. He adds Philadelphia cheese for a hint of richness, then finishes it with yellow cherry tomatoes, delicate slices of fresh tuna, and a dusting of olive powder — made by dehydrating olives and grinding them into a fine dust for a con- centrated burst of umami. “Pizza used to be simple — street food, fast food,” Carfora says. “But today, it’s an art. It’s a science.” He explains that the new wave of pizza chefs, himself included, have made the craft far more refined. “You can’t just throw ingredients together and expect a great pizza. You have to understand hydration levels, hu- midity, oven temperature, and how long the dough needs to proof.” For Carfora, that meant attending pizza school, where he specialized in the technical aspects of dough-making. “People don’t real- ize how much detail goes into it,” he says. “Now, customers expect more. They want pizza that’s light, digestible, and even healthy.” To meet these demands, he devel- oped gluten-free and whole-grain dough op- tions. “It’s not just about taste — it’s about how it makes you feel after eating it.” Many of his pizzas are also finished with fresh in- gredients after they emerge from the oven, ensuring the flavors remain bright and intact. “The quality of the ingredients is every- thing,” he adds. “That’s why I source the best from Italy.” The restaurant’s design leans into Naples’ playful and slightly kitschy aesthetic. Hand- painted signs dangle from the ceiling with fa- mous Neapolitan sayings about love. Walls are lined with Maradona memorabilia, and bright lemons hang overhead, evoking the Amalfi coast. It’s a space that doesn’t take it- self too seriously, much like the pizzas them- selves —rooted in tradition but unafraid to bend the rules. Il Pizzaiolo may be in the heart of tourist- heavy South Beach, but there’s nothing gim- micky about it. Instead, it’s a place that celebrates Neapolitan pizza in its past, pres- ent, and future, all under the hands of a young chef determined to push the craft forward. “I want people outside of Naples to under- stand what real Neapolitan pizza is — not just the pizza, but the culture behind it,” Carfora says. “That’s what I’m trying to bring to Miami.” Il Pizzaiolo. 1403 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; 786-641-1090; ilpizzaiolomiami.com. [email protected] ▼ Café Il Pizzaiolo photo Il Pizzaiolo photo Rafaele Carfora crafts pizzas that are as mindful as they are delicious — with gluten-free and whole-grain dough options, fresh toppings added post-bake, and premium ingredients straight from Italy. The restaurant’s design leans into Naples’ playful, slightly kitschy aesthetic. “PIZZA USED TO BE SIMPLE — STREET FOOD, FAST FOOD. BUT TODAY, IT’S AN ART.”
