10 February 29 - March 6, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | Month XX–Month XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Love Story Italian tradition meets Peruvian flavors at Pasta in Wynwood. BY MICHELLE MUSLERA I n Miami’s dining scene, a wave of Italian eateries is sparking a pasta renaissance, with homemade noodles taking center stage and locals enthusiastically embracing the trend. With this surge in pasta specialists, including the acclaimed Osteria Da Fortunata on Lincoln Road, Niven Patel’s Erba in Coral Gables, and the upcoming opening of Piegari in Wynwood, Miamians are reveling in the opportunity to witness the pasta-making process firsthand and indulge in the delicious results. Adding their unique twist to this burgeon- ing scene are Peruvian chefs Juan Manuel Umbert and Janice Buraschi, whose new res- taurant in Wynwood, aptly named Pasta, promises to redefine the pasta experience in Miami. Drawing inspiration from their extensive travels throughout Italy, Umbert and Buras- chi are set to offer traditional Italian noodles with a subtle Peruvian twist. The couple’s love story began back in 2013, when Umbert, who was pursuing a business career at the time, found his heart captivated not only by Buraschi but also by the world of restaurants. In 2014, encouraged by her simi- lar passion, she enrolled in a course at Le Cordon Bleu in Lima. Their culinary journey reached new heights in 2016 when they both studied abroad at Le Cordon Bleu in London. After completing their culinary studies, the couple embarked on a journey to explore Ita- ly’s heartland and absorb the essence of its cuisine. This experience opened their minds to the simple three-to-four ingredient, fresh, housemade dishes, which was the beginning of Pasta. In 2017, they both worked at prestigious restaurants in New York City before heading back to Lima, where they opened Pasta, a 25- seat Italian eatery. After getting married in 2022 and facing post-pandemic challenges, including political and economic crises in the country, the couple was prompted to explore a second market beyond Perú. They found a natural fit in Miami, and the rest is history. Opening in early March, Pasta’s open- kitchen concept will provide diners with an immersive culinary experience, allowing them to witness the meticulous preparation of each dish in real time. “Our vision is to be the restaurant with the best housemade pasta in Miami,” Umbert shares with New Times. Featuring signature items like pappardelle with a 15-hour braised beef cheek ragu, the menu at Pasta will feature 12 kinds of pasta, with each noodle prepared fresh that morn- ing on a window-facing countertop overlook- ing the streets of Wynwood. “The goal is not to make Italian-Peruvian food,” Umbert explains, “but to enhance the traditional Italian dishes with techniques and elements of Peruvian cooking.” Drawing on Peru’s bold flavors, umami, and spices, they’ve curated a menu that harmoniously blends the best of both worlds. This fusion is evident in Pasta’s crudo ap- petizers, which showcase techniques remi- niscent of Peruvian ceviche. One standout dish is the razor clam appetizer, a beloved sta- ple of Peruvian cevicherias, which receives a bold flavor treatment with the chef’s rendi- tion of salsa verde and housemade nduja, then baked with red wine vinegar and lemon juice to achieve a spicy, smoky flavor profile. Umbert takes pride in crafting many of the restau- rant’s main ingredi- ents in-house, including the ricotta used for pasta fillings and the signature stracciatella appetizer. Served alongside housemade sourdough bread, the creamy stracciatella embodies the perfect marriage of simplicity and indul- gence, perfectly seasoned and topped with Italian olive oil. On the dessert front, Buraschi channels her creativity into crafting desserts that cele- brate both classic Italian flavors and playful Peruvian elements. Take, for example, their coffee crema volteada, a delightful twist on the traditional Italian dessert. Cooked simi- larly to a crema volteada — a Peruvian-style flan — this indulgent treat offers a rich and creamy texture, with hints of aromatic coffee that linger on the palate. In addition to their inventive desserts, Pasta will also offer house- made gelatos featuring Peruvian fruit flavors like lucuma, adding a tropical touch. The chefs’ vision extends beyond the plate to the very heart of the restaurant — the open kitchen. Here, the walls between the front and back of the house are lifted, allowing guests to witness the seamless collaboration between chefs and staff as they work together. In do- ing so, Umbert and Buraschi aim to provide diners with a fully immersive experience, where they can not only see the action in the kitchen but also feel a part of it, fostering a sense of connection and camaraderie that en- hances the overall dining experience. As Pasta prepares to open its doors, Um- bert and Buraschi are driven by a shared de- sire to spread joy through their culinary creations. “Pasta is a labor of love for us,” Um- bert concludes. “We are passionate about what we do, and we are in the business of making people happy. That is our common goal.” Pasta. 124 NW 28th St., Miami; pasta-res- taurants.com. Opening in early March. Tues- day through Saturday 5:30 to 11 p.m. [email protected] ▼ Café Pasta photo Pasta’s pappardelle with 15-hour braised beef cheek ragu “OUR VISION IS TO BE THE RESTAURANT WITH THE BEST HOUSEMADE PASTA IN MIAMI.”
