12 February 15-21, 2024 miaminewtimes.com | browardpalmbeach.com New Times | music | cafe | culture | Night+Day | News | letters | coNteNts | Month XX–Month XX, 2008 miaminewtimes.com MIAMI NEW TIMES | MUSIC | CAFE | FILM | ART | STAGE | NIGHT+DAY | METRO | RIPTIDE | LETTERS | CONTENTS | Gastronomic Getaway Colombian restaurants are finding second homes in Miami. BY LUIS GOMEZ I t’s not only New York-based restaurants and hospitality groups that want a piece of the red-hot South Florida market. There has quietly been a growing list of Colombian hospitality brands — from traditional and fusion restaurants to a Bad Bunny-recommended nightclub — that have been expanding into the area, as well. They’re not as buzzy as the New York eateries, but many do come with loyal followings. Plus, the restaurants and bars provide a piece of home for the many Colombians who call South Florida home. Alegria by El Rancherito in Doral is the newest of the Colombian transplants. The family-owned business serves traditional Co- lombian cuisine and is an upscale version of the nine El Rancherito restaurants in and around Medellin. Also crossing over into South Florida in the past year: Latin gastrobar La Matriarca in Doral, one-star Michelin restaurant Elcielo’s second Miami-area restaurant, phallic waffle shop La Vergueria in Miami Beach, and reg- gaeton club Perro Negro in Wynwood. And more are on the way, including the kitschy Miami Beach-bound Andrés Carne de Res. However, Colombia’s presence in South Florida is nothing new. William Salamanca, the Colombian consul general, estimated that 800,000 Colombians live in South Florida during a 2023 interview with Global Miami. For more than a decade, Colombia has consistently been one of the top countries searching online for real estate in South Florida. If this is the case, then why are more Co- lombian hospitality brands making the leap now than five or ten years ago? “Restaurants are becoming more orga- nized in Colombia,” says Manuela Montoya, general manager of the El Rancherito restau- rant group founded by her grandparents in 1975. “Before, you would just see a lot of res- taurants that were run solely by the owner. However, now you see more restaurants with boards of directors.” “In our case, the third generation [of the family business] came in and stopped thinking of the business as a restaurant and now thinks of it as a company,” she adds. “We wanted to see what else we could do with the brand.” Alejandro Cardona, cofounder and creative director of the Hacienda, which runs Perro Negro, believes Colombia’s popularity is another reason for the wave of Colombian brands. He thinks that the world is paying more attention to Colombia as of late, which may have Colombian businesses thinking bigger. Perro Negro has experienced this spotlight firsthand. The Medellín nightclub is known as the top reggaeton club in a city that has given us Karol G, J Balvin, Maluma, and Feid. It’s so popular with reggaeton artists that Feid and Bad Bunny paid tribute to the basement club on the 2023 single “Perro Negro.” The timing couldn’t have been better, as Perro Negro opened in Wynwood around the same time. Next up for the growing brand is a Madrid location. “Colombia is having a moment. Tourism is up — especially in Medellín — and that has some businesses thinking they can compete internationally,” says Cardona, adding, “You also have to factor in the appeal of earning in dollars.” The U.S. dollar has nearly doubled in value in Colombia over the past decade. But that means opening a location in the U.S. is a significantly bigger investment for these brands than adding another location in Colombia. Plus, there’s no guarantee that what worked in Colombia will work in the U.S. Some of the most successful Colombian fast food franchises have come and gone in the U.S., including El Corral and Kokoriko in South Florida and Frisby in New York. “There have been a few Colombian restau- rants that didn’t do too well here. This is a competitive market with lots of options,” says Cesar Holguin, co-owner of La Matriarca, which opened in Doral in September 2023 and has four locations in Colombia. “We wanted to make sure we were ready before coming.” Holguin pointed to Mondongo’s as a prominent model of success. Named after its signature tripe soup, Mondongo’s has called South Florida home for 20-plus years. Also thriving is chef Juan Manuel Barri- entos’s Michelin- starred Elcielo, which opened in Brickell in 2015. But what will it take for these South Florida newcomers from Colombia to enjoy the same sort of longevity as Mondongo’s or Elcielo? Montoya says adapting will be key for Alegria. This is why the restaurant is trendier and more nightlife-friendly than El Rancheri- to’s restaurants in Colombia. Don’t worry — you can still get traditional Colombian staples at Alegria, such as the bandeja paisa, a hearty platter that includes chicharrón, frijoles, and plantains. However, the difference here is that the bandeja paisa will be served in a space decorated with neon cursive signs and live music from Thursday through Saturday. “[Alegria’s] food has the same traditional feel as El Rancherito, but we’ve added more details to the presentation and experience,” Montoya says. “We wanted to bring the best of what we do and combine it with the best of Miami. This is a demanding city, but we are up for the challenge.” Alegria by El Rancherito. 8391 NW 12th St., Doral; 786-921-4691; alegriabyelrancherito.com. Monday through Wednesday noon to 9 p.m., Thursday and Friday noon to 2 a.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to 2 a.m., and Sunday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Perro Negro. 2328 N. Miami Ave., Miami; instagram.com/clubperronegro. Thursday through Sunday 9 p.m. to 3 a.m. La Matriarca. 2255 NW 87th Ave., Doral; 305-775-2628; lamatriarca.com. Sunday through Tuesday 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., Wednes- day and Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. Mondongo’s Restaurante. 3500 NW 87th Ave., Doral; 305-718-4977; mondongosrestau- rante.com. Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. [email protected] ▼ Café Mar6 photo Doral’s Alegria by El Rancherito is the first U.S. location for El Rancherito, which has nine locations in Colombia. “COLOMBIA IS HAVING A MOMENT. TOURISM IS UP — ESPECIALLY IN MEDELLÍN.”
