16 December 14 - 20, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents ▼ HOLIDAYS SCALED FOR A CROWD CHECK OUT THESE DALLAS SPOTS FOR A FEAST OF SEVEN FISHES. BY HANK VAUGHN S eason 2 of FX/Hulu’s The Bear fea- tured an intense and emotionally draining episode, a flashback to a Christmas Eve Feast of Seven Fishes meal at the Berzatto house several years prior. Carmy has come home to visit from Den- mark. Matriarch Donna Berzatto, expertly portrayed by Jamie Lee Curtis, is frantically preparing the dinner, drinking and chain- smoking the entire time, and has a total meltdown caused by the, shall we say, dys- functional family dynamics as well as fork throwing. Before the powder keg eventually ex- plodes, however, the family muses about what the Feast of Seven Fishes represents for Italian-Americans. Donna’s version sur- mises that it represents the seven best things that Italians brought to America with them. Stevie’s (John Mulaney) plain- tive recitation of grace asserts that the tra- ditional meal is a way to show love for one’s family and to each other. Tears are shed, plates are broken and a car is driven through a wall. And of course, the afore- mentioned throwing of forks. Of course, closer to the truth is that eat- ing meat wasn’t allowed until Christmas Day. The Christmas Eve meal of fish is a sort of a vigil, the anticipation of the arrival of Je- sus. It’s why this tradition, which originated in Southern Italy, is called La Vigilia there. The meal usually consists of seven (or more) fishes, the most common and tradi- tional of which is baccalà (salted cod) in to- mato sauce. It also can include fried smelt, calamari, eel, clams, lobster, anchovies and octopus. In my lifetime, our family never did this on Christmas Eve, instead feasting on home- made ravioli that itself was a production over several days. My grandmother, however, used to (not so fondly) recall how it was her job growing up to skin the eels for the Christmas Eve dinner. Needless to say, this was a task she did not enjoy, and she’d relate the experience with a look of disgust as she would pantomime with exaggerated arm movements the horrific act of skinning the eel. Yeah … let’s stick with ravi- oli. However, for those wanting to experience this unique Christmas Eve meal, or for those wanting to relive old family traditions, several places in North Texas offer a Feast of Seven Fishes meal during the Christmas season. Book early while space remains. We’re sure you’ll fare better than the Berzatto family. Dolce Riviera 2950 N. Harwood St. Dolce Riviera is offering a Feast of Seven Fishes dinner (in addition to the regular menu) Dec. 18–24 for $85, or $140 with an optional wine pairing. Two of the seven courses are desserts, but that still leaves five courses that include boquerones (anchovies white bean purée, shallots and toast), scallop crudo barramundi, and a whole roasted bran- zino. Desserts are a sorbetto and cannoli trio. Urban Seafood Company and Urban Crust 1104 E. 14th St., Plano and 1006 E. 15th St., Plano Urban Seafood’s Feast of Seven Fishes is on Christmas Eve at 5:30 p.m. and includes seven courses and seven wines for $125. It promises to be a traditional feast, but space is limited so purchase tickets online sooner rather than later on the website. Sister restaurant Urban Crust will also have a Feast of Seven Fishes starting at 3 p.m. on Christmas Eve. The menu hasn’t been finalized, but will be on a first-come, first-served basis with no reservations. Davio’s 5762 Grandscape Blvd.,The Colony Davio’s Feast of Seven Fishes is priced at $85 and includes a first course of charred oysters topped with crab, a second pasta course of scallop, mussels and prawn tagliatelle, fol- lowed by the “piatto della vigilia”: Atlantic salmon, poached lobster tail, parsnip purée, squash, zucchini and lobster consommé. For those wanting some meat, fear not: the regu- lar menu will also be available. Sachet 4270 Oak Lawn Ave. The fish feast at Sachet, offered over three nights (Dec. 22–24), will run $95 for seven dishes. The regular menu will also be available, but the entire table must order the fish feast because it is served family style. Two of the dishes on this year’s menu are mussels with melted leeks in a butter broth with turmeric, and salmon with maftou with salsa verde. Who knows what other delicious surprises await. Give them a call to make reser- vations (214-613-6425) or book your dinner through Resy for this special fish-forward feast. Gemma 2323 N. Henderson Ave., No. 109 Gemma will offer a Feast of Seven Fishes over three days, Dec. 22–24. As with Sachet, this will also set you back $95 a pop. The regular menu is also available, but the family-style service of the feast requires a com- plete commitment from the table. In the past, such dishes as Alaskan cod, charred octopus, spaghetti with uni and crab, and grilled striped bass have been served along with a dessert. Make your reservations via the website or by giving them a call the old-fashioned way. Buon Natale! Courtesy of Sachet Salmon with maftoul (whole wheat couscous) and oregano salsa verde. Just one of the courses you can expect from Sachet’s Feast of Seven Fishes this Christmas season. City of Ate from p15 Courtesy of Sachet Mussels with melted leeks in a rich butter broth with turmeric at Sachet is typical of the dishes often served at a Feast of Seven Fishes Christmas Eve meal. FEBRUARY 26 HOUSE OF BLUES ENTER TO WIN TICKETS
