16 December 12 - 18, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents is tidy and compact, which gives the kitchen the ability to focus on doing a few things and doing them well. Despite the menu’s small size, there’s something for ev- eryone to be found, and Goldie’s has an ex- cellent beverage menu to round out their vision. Top Pick: Boring chicken breast entrees are banished here, replaced with “magic” chicken thighs. The savory thighs are pan- fried, glazed with a ginger guava sauce and served with mashed yams and mustard greens that sing with flavor. Georgie 4514 Travis St. Chef R.J. Yoakum studied at Thomas Keller’s French Laundry, and his arrival in Dallas coincided with a stylistic change to the former Knox Henderson steakhouse. Celebrity chef Curtis Stone’s name was qui- etly dropped, and Yoakum turned the menu on its ear. Gone are boring takes on steaks served at inflated celebrity-chef prices. They’ve been replaced by dishes infused with French techniques and Yoakum’s flair for bold flavors and new interpretations of old standbys. A dinner here skews on the sp- endy side, but the price of admission in- cludes a heaping amount of creativity unlike much else in the city. Top Pick: Although Yoakum told us he’d love to change it up, nothing speaks to his creativity like the reimagining of French on- ion soup, turned quite literally upside down. The bread is on the bottom, topped with a whipped and toasted gruyere. A rich onion broth is poured tableside and stirred to blend the velvety flavors into something both comforting and unique. Tatsu 3309 Elm St. Tatsu, the namesake Deep Ellum omakase restaurant from chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi, is the only Dallas restaurant to earn a Michelin star, but we were enthralled by Sekiguchi’s lessons in the art of omakase well before the Michelin Guide came to town. Dallas’ omak- ase scene is growing rapidly, but we prefer Tatsu’s traditional and elegant interpreta- tion over flashier alternatives. Just two seat- ings per evening take place at the 10-seat restaurant, and reservations filled quickly even before Tatsu earned a coveted Mi- chelin star. Tatsu’s preparations are steeped in history and tradition that pays respect to the food, but the light shines most on the el- egant brilliance on display. Top Pick: The pacing of courses is nearly perfect, so you may have room for another bite or two. In that case, opt for additional pieces of nigiri after the main service con- cludes, with selections of previous courses or unique fresh offerings that Tatsu obtains in small quantities. Even Coast 5463 Belt Line Road, Addison The premise of steaks, seafood and pasta under one roof is not unique. But at Even Coast, chef Omar Flores has jumped into the idea with both feet to splendid effect. Fresh seafood abounds, and Even Coast’s graceful handling turns out gems like a Texas redfish imbued with Creole flavors. Pastas are smartly executed, and steaks from Allen Brothers Ranch are a delight. Even Coast’s beverage selection is top- notch, with an impressive list of wines and a curated cocktail menu. Flores’ under- standing of flavors and textures results in smartly executed dishes that remain emi- nently accessible. Top Pick: Swing in for happy hour when Even Coast’s double cheeseburger is just $10 and taste what a Big Mac longs to be when it grows up. The Heritage Table 7110 Main St., Frisco After being forced to turn his restaurant into a to-go sandwich shop during the pandemic, chef Rich Vana has brought The Heritage Table back to its former glory among the best farm-to-table restau- rants in the area. As part of the reopening, Vana focused his team on using all parts of each animal and plant that comes through the kitchen and bring- ing that sustainabil- ity to a Southern-inspired menu. Dishes like Wa- gyu beef shoulder, chicken pot pie or fried green tomatoes may be tinged with a syrupy South- ern accent, but the casual excellence across the menu is easily under- stood. Top Pick: Had ramen been invented in the South, it would be Heritage Table’s Whole Beast. The ingredients vary with the seasons, but on our winter visit, chunks of smoked dark meat chicken, house-made chicken meatballs and chopped Wagyu flatiron steak were poised atop a base of thick noodles, then topped with braised greens, a pickled egg and kimchi fermented in house. Mot Hai Ba 6047 Lewis St. Chef Peja Krstic’s East Dallas fusion restau- rant is adored by the locals. Over the past several years, Krstic has sharpened his fo- cus with notable results. Mot Hai Ba’s Viet- namese influences are still there, but the menu shows off Krstic’s global chops, with house-made pastas and seafood grilled over Japanese binchō-tan charcoal. The dedication has paid off: Mot Hai Ba has re- joined our Top 100 list and has received a Bib Gourmand award from the Michelin Guide as well. Top Pick: The kimchi and foie gras dumplings show off a medley of flavors and are adorned with caramelized pears and Wagyu ribeye. The blend of cuisines symbolizes everything Mot Hai Ba is about. Cenzo’s Pizza & Deli 1700 W. Tenth St. In a converted gas station at the corner of Tenth Street and Jefferson Boulevard in Oak Cliff’s Winnetka Heights, Cenzo’s has quickly woven itself into the fabric of the neighborhood. Co- owners Chad Dolezal and Vinnie Sherman, who live nearby, wanted to open a restaurant where they could bring their families, and the neighbors have followed suit. They come for brilliant pizzas from Chef Jason Smith, as well as hot and cold sandwiches like the classic “Italian Deli” or the “Fancy Fried Bologna” that are jammed full of flavor. The beer taps pour out local suds along with wines by the glass, and a spacious patio is bustling when the weather cooperates. Best of all, Dolezal sees to it that his staff are well paid and cared for, which yields benefits for employees and customers alike. Top Pick: Midweek visits are the best time to visit. Tuesday is all-day happy hour, Wednesday’s theme is the ability to get any pie as a deep dish and Thursday’s special is a killer chicken parm sub. Uchiko 7801 Windrose Ave., Plano Uchiko is the latest gem in James Beard award-winner Tyson Cole’s culinary crown, a take on the Uchi concept imbued with flame- kissed excellence. Uchiko’s menu offers plenty of nigiri, sashimi and makimono that wouldn’t feel out of place on Uchi’s table, but the key differences come “from the hearth,” the wood grill that is key to Uchiko’s soul. There’s a resplendent sea bass sized for two people to share, a decadent grilled scallop or a Wagyu grilled New York Strip steak that is served perfectly medium rare under a heavy char. Service here is notable for the small army of staff who quickly appear when a plate is emptied before disappearing back into the shadows. It’s on theme for Uchiko, where subtle elegance is understated. Top Pick: The sea bass is phenomenally good, and if you’re dining with a friend, perfectly sized. Fire-kissed, with a crisped skin hiding the flaky fish underneath, it’s served with a heap of fresh herbs and is one of the most enjoyable dishes we’ve shared in a long time. Green Point Seafood & Oyster Bar 3219 Knox St. Dallas restauranteurs Nik and Greg Katz wanted a seafood bar reminiscent of the part of South Africa near the Atlantic coast where their grandparents lived. Alison McLean Waygu beef shoulder at The Heritage Table >> p18 Top 100 Restaurants from p15 Alison McLean Potato chip fried mozzarella at Cenzo’s
