15 December 12 - 18, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents I t’s that time of year when we take a fresh look at the Top 100 Restaurants in Dallas. And this year is indeed fresh, with 18 restaurants added to our guide, 13 of which are new arrivals to the scene, ranging from a modest street-fare burger to Michelin-lauded creativity unlike much else in the city. Yes, we said “Michelin,” perhaps the buzziest word in Dallas food in 2024. The arrival of the historic Michelin Guide in Texas has raised the stakes for restaurants across the state. In Dallas, restaurants are pushing harder than ever to impress, never knowing whether there’s an anonymous Mi- chelin inspector in their dining room. The payoff is for the customers, who are reaping the fruits of the labor of chefs who have never been more driven. But for all the Guide’s name recognition, theirs is a 30,000-foot view of the city’s res- taurant scene. Our aim with the Top 100 is to give you the boots-on-the-ground truth about the variety of local haunts that give Dallas its color and texture. We’re eating right next to you at the steakhouses, pizza joints and neighborhood bistros that we all adore, regardless of what national-level at- tention they may or may not garner. The Top 100 tells the local story, because we live it every day. The past year has been one of change, for the restaurant business and for society as a whole. On the plus side, we’ve seen the growth of local businesses launching new concepts, even in the face of high-priced real estate, food and labor. While we cover as many restaurants as possible, we love shin- ing the light on the local spots that are our friends and neighbors as opposed to a face- less corporation opening the next location of their chain in the area. But there’s also a local and national appe- tite for change from the status quo. With a new administration at the federal level comes renewed discussion on issues like im- migration and tariffs, which can have down- stream effects on our favorite dining spots. To be blunt, rounding up immigrants could raise the cost of American goods and ser- vices amid a labor shortage, and blanket tar- iffs will make imported goods more expensive. Everyone from farmers to liquor distributors to restaurant owners will see the cost of doing business rise, and it’s only natural for those costs to be passed along to the consumer. These changes could make the already difficult job of running a restaurant that much harder. But Dallas restaurants have al- ways been a resilient bunch, and their pa- trons always find a way to make room in the budget for dining out, no matter the cost. This year’s Top 100 list is complete, but our work never ends. We’ll continue to share our experiences at restaurants across the city because where we eat is a reflection of our city, its residents and its values. Challenging times only make local journalism more im- portant, and we’ll continue to highlight the very best that Dallas has to offer. NEW PICKS FOR 2025 Radici 12990 Bee St., Farmers Branch Next door to her already lauded Roots Southern Table, Radici is chef Tiffany Derry’s homage to the Italian-style cook- ing where she began her career. To de- velop Radici’s menu, Derry traveled to Italy for culinary and cultural inspiration, and it shows in her interpretations of the Italian classics. Pastas are on point, but Radici’s real work comes via the wood grill, where gems like a roasted half chicken, striped bass or smoky eggplant come to life. Top Pick: All of Radici’s pastas are sub- lime, but our favorite is the coniglio alla gri- cia. Braised shredded rabbit is the star, blended into a pecorino and guanciale sauce, then tossed with twisted pasta and a few bitter greens to contrast the richness. Wild game has never been so accessible. Goodwin’s 2905 Greenville Ave. Occupying the longtime home of the Blue Goose Cantina on Greenville Avenue, Goodwin’s is already an instant neighbor- hood go-to. Inside it’s lovely, as art-deco meets mid-century lux style, and the food menu, with playful riffs on classic Ameri- can bar-and-grill fare, is chock-full of win- ners. In the back is the Goose Bar, a nod to the former tenant, with cocktails and small bites served against a darker lounge back- drop. No matter which section you choose to eat or drink in, it becomes readily appar- ent why Goodwin’s appeal has blossomed so quickly. Top Pick: How many steak sandwiches can you recall that are cooked to your pre- ferred doneness? That’s par for the course at Goodwin’s, and their steak sandwich, with thick slices of medium beef cavorting with caramelized onions and melty provolone, is a solid and affordable option. Ookuma Japanese Burger 1902 Botham Jean Blvd. There was an audible gasp across Dallas when Sandwich Hag, the beloved bánh mì shop in the Cedars, announced it was clos- ing. But in its place is Ookuma Japanese Burger, where Japanese-style teriyaki burg- ers are packed with flavor at a price point that won’t break the bank. The fare comes courtesy of chef Yuyee Sakpanichkul Kaiho and husband George Kaiho, who also own Ka-Tip Thai Street Food in the Dallas Farm- ers Market. This burger spot is a nod to clas- sic Japanese street fare. The ingredients are simple, but the crunch of lettuce, the rich- ness of the Kewpie mayo and the salty teri- yaki glaze on the beefy patty will send your taste buds into a tizzy. Top Pick: Karaage chicken is marinated, breaded and fried golden, and served with a side of Kewpie mayo to dip to your heart’s content. We’re not saying skip the fries with your burger, but we can’t stop ourselves from ordering the karaage when we stop in. Swank 1115 N. Beckley Ave. Chef Luke Rogers and his wife, Geni, have created this cozy, near-perfect local bistro in Oak Cliff, where a meal feels like you’ve been invited to your neighbor’s home. In the space formerly known as Beckley 1115, the Rogers added a full-service bar and a few more tables as part of the rebranding. The menu still trades in American fare with touches of Italian influences: fish filets, steaks and house-made pastas dominate the entrees. Appetizers sparkle, like the tal- low-basted focaccia or crunchy arancini with yellowfin tuna. Top Pick: Be sure to ask about the spe- cials; they change frequently and Rogers isn’t afraid to attack classic dishes with culi- nary school touches (upscale chicken nug- gets, anyone?). Goldie’s 9850 Walnut Hill Lane Instead of dining out at the latest concept from big-money out-of-towners, we much prefer local spots that feel like part of their neighborhood. Goldie’s in northeast Dallas is a prime example of why this works: the space is dark and cozy, the service is atten- tive without pretense and the menu The restaurants that make Dallas great. BY CHRIS WOLFGANG AND LAUREN DREWES DANIELS Alison McLean At Georgie, the reimagined French onion soup is deliciously upside down. | CITY OF ATE | t Dish >> p16
