15 December 11 -17, 2025 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents plenty of black pepper. The chicken biscuit is an ode to being “so extra.” Brunch is an entire event. We’d tell you to dress up, but you actually better be com- fortable. Breakfast is served all day, but don’t skip the sandwiches, like the super-tall club sandwich or the macaroni and cheese that’s full of love and no fuss. In 2022, it expanded with a second location at 5337 Forest Lane. Kendall Karsen’s Upscale Soul Food South Dallas 3939 S. Polk St. AT THE END OF A STRIP CENTER under the shadow of U.S. 67, chef Kevin Winston is rethinking clas- sic Southern food. What’s remark- able about the dishes at Kendall Karsen’s is their confidence. No, those baked ribs don’t need a sauce, not with their peppery rub and tender meat that comes off the bone with a gentle tug. But there’s a cup of deep brown barbe- cue sauce on the side anyway, and it’s fantastic. No, these stewed col- lard greens don’t need half a salt- shaker and a pound of bacon to achieve deeply satisfying flavor. (There are inch-wide planks of pork in the cabbage, though.) What’s even better than the food, though, is the outstanding hospi- tality of this ultra-friendly team, which serves a close-knit commu- nity of regulars. No wonder this spot has hosted celebrity visitors like Bun B. Lucia Bishop Arts District 287 N. Bishop Ave. luciadallas.com WALKING INTO LUCIA IS much like walking into a home. The hostess (who is the chef’s wife) is genuinely gleeful you’ve arrived, so perhaps that makes it better than home. You’ll defi- nitely want to make a reservation. And if the long wait seems daunting, click that box for alerts, which will notify you when there’s a cancella- tion and you’ll likely get a notification within a week. Be sure to start your visit with a brown butter old- fashioned, one of the best drinks we’ve ever had. Then consider chef David Uygur’s prized salumi board, which is blessed with house-cured meats, pâtés and mousse along with house-baked bread. Beyond that, the menu changes seasonally and while it is Italian at its core, this isn’t your typical romp through fettuccine and red sauce. Try dishes like bucatini with mussels or Amish chicken with marinated greens and toasted pecans and croutons. There are no misses here. It’s all hits. Mr. Max Izakaya Restaurant Irving 3028 N. Belt Line Road mrmaxtx.com MR. MAX HIMSELF, HARE Nakamura, died in 2013, but his namesake restaurant is still thriv- ing in its third decade of business. A casual oasis of high- quality Japanese food in an Irving strip mall that also contains five hair salons, Mr. Max offers cold and hot ap- petizers, grilled seafood and ir- resistible fried snacks such as takoyaki, the bat- tered balls topped with dancing bonito flakes and conceal- ing nuggets of octo- pus within. Half-sized bowls of ramen mean you can chow down on noodles and still have room for something else. Revolver Gastro Cantina Deep Ellum 2701 Main St. revolvertacolounge.com CHEF AND OWNER REGINO Rojas is fascinated with Japanese cooking, which might be an odd in- tro for a taco spot. A “gastro can- tina” might also seem like an odd pairing, but when the fare is this good, you can call it what you want. Be sure to start a meal with the deli- cate cabrito wontons. We’re also partial to the pulpo tacos; one is served carnitas style with fried leek and a hot salsa verde. The other is served pastor style and comes with a whole tentacle lazing across a pressed-to-order tortilla with grilled pineapple, scallion and ci- lantro. If you’re seeking elegance, try its sister concept tasting room, La Purepecha. Roots Southern Table Farmers Branch 13050 Bee St. rootssoutherntable.com CHEF TIFFANY DERRY’S triumphant Farmers Branch res- taurant oozes joy. The customers are happy, the staff is enthusiastic, the mood is like a family reunion and the food tastes like a celebra- tion. Derry’s kitchen serves up Southern fare inspired by her Lou- isiana roots, blending traditional and modern takes together bril- liantly with her team. Derry may be the area’s biggest consumer of duck fat, using it for French fries, dirty rice, but most important, fried chicken. The poultry is brined to keep the meat tender and juicy, marinated to give it a gentle spicy heat, fried until a deep, dark brown and served family-style on a heaping plate. Rye Lower Greenville 1920 Greenville Ave. rye.restaurant RYE SERVES SERIOUSLY GOOD fare that you’re unlikely to find in mainstream Dallas restaurants. If you’re down for a serious culinary journey, partake in the seasonal tasting menu. A la carte items like an Icelandic hot dog are made with Rosewood wagyu beef, Ice- landic sweet mustard, remoulade, rugbrod, onion and fried shallot; all in about two bites. The decon- structed chocolate cake is the only cake Guy Fieri has ever featured on his show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives (of which Rye is none). SPLURGE WORTHY Dallas restaurants worth every precious Benjamin. El Carlos Elegante The Design District 1400 N. Riverfront Blvd. elcarloselegante.com FROM THE DALLAS-BASED group Duro Hospitality, think of El Carlos Elegante as The Charles’ Mexican cousin. The restaurant is nondescript outside, but inside is a vibrant and lively space, serving au- thentic Mexican and South Ameri- can fare with an upscale polish. The best of El Carlos’ dishes center on anything made with house-made masa; the mushroom tetelas or cho- rizo molotes are brilliant examples. A visit to El Carlos Elegante bor- ders on “special occasion” spend- ing, but the brilliant dishes are worth the price of admission. Even Coast Addison 5463 Belt Line Road even-coast.com THE PREMISE OF STEAKS, seafood and pasta under one roof is not unique. But at Even Coast, chef Omar Flores has jumped into the concept with both feet, and the payoff has been splendid. Fresh seafood abounds, and Even Coast’s graceful handling turns out gems like a Texas redfish imbued with Creole flavors. Pastas are smartly executed, and steaks from Allen Brothers Ranch are a delight. Even Coast’s beverage program is top- notch, with an impressive wine se- lection to go alongside a curated cocktail menu. Greenpoint Seafood and Oyster Bar Knox-Henderson 3129 Knox St. greenpointdallas.com DALLAS RESTAURATEURS NIK and Greg Katz wanted a Alison McLean El Carlos Elegante serves upscale authentic Mexican and South American fare. >> p16 Roots Southern Table celebrates Southern fare. Al is o n M cL ea n
