20 December 8–14, 2022 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Month XX–Month XX, 2014 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER | Classified | MusiC | dish | Movies | Culture | Night+day | feature | sChutze | uNfair Park | CoNteNts | maybe a half-dozen anywhere in America out- side of New York and California — SpicyZest would be notable even if it weren’t especially good. SpicyZest produces outstanding food, ranging from fusion snacks like the “spicy pan- cake bomb” to traditional special occasion meals like lamprais, a generous helping of rice, meat and vegetables rolled into a banana leaf and steamed. The bar is stocked with Sri Lankan beer and arrack. The owners are all too happy to help first-timers get to know Sri Lankan food, and their hospitality is first-rate. 13920 Josey Lane, 469-629-9191 SuShi Robata: This North Dallas Japanese res- taurant is an all-rounder, serving good examples of just about everything you could want. The ra- men is some of the best in Dallas — more flavor- ful and less aggressively salty than bowls from many ramen specialists — and the specialty su- shi rolls don’t go over the top. They do include unusual preparations, though, like multiple rolls with crawfish. Robatayaki-grilled meats and veggies are solid bets, too, as are ultra-tradi- tional sushi rolls like big, thick futomaki. Sushi Robata is across-the-board reliable in a wide ar- ray of Japanese cuisine. This is one of the most comfortable dining rooms in Dallas. It’s just a pleasure to eat here, especially in the last few years, when the crowds drifted away to trendier spots. Sushi Robata is also unusually quiet; from the architecture to the way the kitchen uses a lantern instead of a bell to summon waitstaff, everything about the place is designed to keep the volume down. 4727 Frankford Road, 972-930-9428 taco Y Vino: One of Bishop Arts’ most welcoming neighborhood hangouts is dedicated to the prop- osition that tacos pair well with wine. This isn’t your grandmother’s wine bar; it’s a super-casual spot that takes all the elitism and exclusion out of wine-drinking. Have a glass on the lawn during lo- teria night and pair your bubbles with a dish in- spired by owner Jimmy Contreras’ upbringing in San Antonio, like shrimp-stuffed jalapeños or crispy carnitas tacos. Our top pick is the brunch or- der of chilaquiles, a classic rendition served with refried black beans. 213 W. Eighth St., 469-372-0022 tei tei Robata: This Japanese bar on Henderson Avenue specializes in robatayaki, the technique of grilling food over hot charcoal. Chefs at the bar tend to the grill, turning out excellent skew- ers of meat and vegetables, as well as crisp- skinned and fork-tender whole fish. There is sashimi on offer, too, and it’s at the same high quality. Once part of Teiichi Sakurai’s empire, Tei Tei Robata is still living up to that legacy of per- fectionism, and the entrance, tucked away from Henderson in a small garden terrace, feels sur- prisingly secluded given the busy neighborhood around it. 2906 N. Henderson, 214-828-2400 tei-an: The most influential figure on the Dallas dining scene might be Teiichi Sakurai, who is doing his best to build one of America’s best Japanese food markets. Sakurai’s previous res- taurants, Teppo and Tei Tei Robata, are both still open and still outstanding, and his ramen shop Ten is a cult favorite. But Tei-An is his masterpiece, one of the few restaurants in America to make its own soba noodles from scratch. The soba is spectacular however you try it, from plain noodles with a trio of dipping sauces in bowls to a “bolognese” riff that bridges the gap between Japan and Italy. Tei- An flies in fresh seafood daily straight from To- kyo, making sushi and sashimi essential orders. Tasting menus offer a good chance to try ev- erything, including the excellent tempura. 1722 Routh St., 214-220-2828 thundeRbiRd PieS: Thunderbird’s specialty is De- troit-style pies, straight out of a seasoned 10-by- 14-inch steel pan, with almost-burnt cheese crust edges, loaded with Wisconsin brick cheese, toppings and, always, sauce on the top. If such delicious pizza weren’t enough, Jay Jer- rier, Thunderbird owner, also put a Cow Tipping Creamery inside of Thunderbird’s East Dallas lo- cation for the scrumptious soft-serve ending to your pizza-perfect day. 7328 Gaston Ave., No. 110, 469- 577-1077 tJ’S Seafood MaRket: There are few seafood markets in Dallas as good as TJ’s. So go ahead and ogle the counter cases, with their beautiful and impeccably sourced cuts of fish, scallops, crab, lobster and more. TJ’s buys from ethical purveyors and sells an exceptionally high qual- ity of product. If you’re feeling lazy, sit down at a table and have them cook the fish for you. The philosophy at TJ’s is exactly what it needs to be: Keep the recipes simple, stupid. Let the spotlight shine on the ingredients. 6025 Royal Lane, 214-691-2369 town heaRth: Crowds of upscale see-and-be-seen Dallasites and tourists loudly mingling over enor- mous freshly-grilled steaks and king crab tater tots made Town Hearth a symbol of the city’s opulence with $120 steaks, but the cheeseburger and fries hold up impressively well in a takeout container. 1617 Market Center Blvd., 214-761-1617. uchi: The Austin import is almost daunting in its reputation for extremely expensive high-end Japanese cooking. But Uchi’s friendly service keeps the experience grounded, and its sushi bar does phenomenal work. Anything raw is bound to be good, especially seafood ordered off the list of daily specials. The only thing better than the ultra-traditional preparations of the day’s freshest fish, printed on a separate menu card, is the melt-in-your-mouth sashimi made from gyutoro (braised beef shortrib). You can order many of Uchi’s dishes at the more casual bar upstairs, Uchiba. Uchi is a relaxing, comfort- able space, but the upstairs bar is just a bit more fun. 2817 Maple Ave., 214-855-5454 uRban taco: Yes, the name sounds a little corpo- rate, but the best restaurant in Mockingbird Station has tons of personality. Co-owner Markus Pineyro drew inspiration from the late-night foods of his native Mexico City when designing tacos such as the “a la Tuma,” which is wrapped, on the outside of the tortilla, in a layer of molten, salty grilled cheese. There’s another way the kitchen’s name is misleading: It serves a lot of food besides tacos, in- cluding tortas, empanadas and yucca fries. 5331 E. Mockingbird Lane, No. 105, 214-823-4723 uRban tadka: Urban Tadka’s original location is in an Irving strip center that has seen better days, but this Punjabi restaurant mini-chain vastly exceeds any expectations that its surroundings might cre- ate. The specialties here are paneer, lamb and goat, all available in superb dishes that balance a multitude of flavors and spices. Grab some naan bread that’s been stuffed with paneer or onions, too. Kadai paneer, which finds the cubes of cheese cooked in a spicy sauce with tomatoes and bell peppers, is a standout. Or dunk your naan into lamb dhansak, with ultra-tender lamb simmered in lentils. 1800 Market Place Blvd., No. 190, 469-420-9920 will call: On approach, this spot has straight sports-bar vibes. TVs deck the walls, all tuned into a game; wings and Philly cheesesteaks are heavy hitters on the menu. However, you should start with a salad, which would be odd at a sports bar, right? That’s the first sign that something here is “different.” The bowl of fresh greens with a delicate dressing and spicy pecans is remarkable. Then, bite into a wing with its house-made sauces and rubs, and you’ll know you’ve been bar-food fooled. 2712 Main St., 972-755-3490 wu wei din: Some of the best noodles, wontons and soups in the area are served at Wu Wei Din, a Plano spot with Taiwanese roots. Many of the regulars are devotees of pork chop fried rice — a decent bowl of fried rice topped with an entire deep-fried pork chop — but beef noodle soup topped with pickled mustard greens is another hit, the beef ultra-tender and the broth well- spiced. Look out for vegetable specials that might be hand-written onto the bottom of the menu; they’ll be cooked simply and flawlessly, with copious garlic. Pork and shrimp spicy won- tons are delicious, as is golden kimchi, a milder, mellower interpretation of the Korean classic with an addicting sweet-spicy balance. 2909 W. 15th St., 972-985-1688 Yia Yia’S houSe of GYRoS: The original Mesquite location of this charming family-owned mini- chain is a tiny dining room full of proof of chef Vasili “Bill” Kaprantzas’ Greek immigrant roots. There’s a poster of the chef’s grandmother and quotations hand-scrawled on the walls. The Rockwall location, in a shiny strip mall, manages the impressive trick of replicating the original dining room’s homey feel, complete with even more quotes, like “Let’s Make America Greek Again.” Nowhere else in Dallas feels like such a true portal to the Aegean Sea and its food. Grab an enormous overstuffed gyro wrap which comes with pretty darn good steak fries. Lamb souvlaki, pastitsio and calamari are superb, too. 904 E. Davis St., 469-802-9797 Yutaka SuShi biStRo: Quite possibly Dallas’ best sushi bar, Yutaka has been an Uptown staple since 2006. Chef-owner Yutaka Yamato over- sees a mouthwatering list of fresh sushi and sashimi that changes with the seasons and with new shipments flown directly from Japan. His sushi rolls hew to traditional styles, with the em- phasis on simplicity and good ingredients; none of the rolls here are Instagram-bait monstrosi- ties with silly names and a dozen different fill- ings and toppings. You could have a satisfying meal without ever straying from the day’s spe- cials, especially fresh sushi and sashimi. 2633 McK- inney Ave., No. 140, 214-969-5533 ZaVala’S baRbecue: Texas barbecue gets influ- enced by Mexican heritage at Zavala’s, and the results are deeply satisfying. Every Friday is taco night, but every barbecue tray can be con- verted into a taco plate if you ask for tortillas. A slice of Zavala’s lean brisket nestled in a fluffy tortilla, topped with cilantro-heavy house salsa verde, tastes just about perfect. The ribs are perfectly cooked, too, especially with a house barbecue sauce that leans heavily on spice. A Sloppy Juan taco bundles chopped meats into a tortilla with a tomato-based sauce that, as the name suggests, tastes exactly like a sloppy joe. Jalapeño peppers find their way into a number of menu items, including sausage links and the creamy-but-spicy coleslaw. Making the whole experience even better, Zavala’s is housed in a tiny 1967 building in Grand Prairie’s mid-century downtown, with a big canopy hanging over the picnic tables out front. 421 W. Main St., 817-330-9061 Zoli’S nY PiZZa: Zoli’s, with its Star Wars art- work and boundary-pushing pies, still sets the standard for pizza in the Dallas area. The res- taurant’s cult following is fully matched by the intense deliciousness of pies like the Christian Pescroni, with double pepperoni and a jala- peño pesto; the Cattleack, with brisket from that legendary barbecue pit; and the muf- faletta pizza, which is at least as preposterous as it sounds. If you somehow need anything else, there’s fried mozzarella balls, garlic knots and big bowls of chopped salad. Look out for pies with spiced crusts; some of Zoli’s pizza crusts come dusted with “everything bagel” seasonings, and they are perfect. 14910 Midway Road, 469-754-9654 Alison McLean Will Call’s Steak & Eggs cheesesteak Top 100 from p18
