14 December 1–7, 2022 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER | Classified | MusiC | dish | Movies | Culture | Night+day | feature | sChutze | uNfair Park | CoNteNts | homes and Tiffany-style lamps salvaged from downtown’s now-shuttered Spa- ghetti Warehouse are just a few of the eclectic decor choices made by Segovia to give Meyboom its endearing, one-of-a- kind character. And that custom bar is gorgeous. Made of polished live edge teak wood with a stunning high-gloss finish, it’s shaped like the letter “M” to represent the nearby historic M Streets, known for their charming Tudor and Craftsman homes. We pulled up a seat at the bar on a chilly Dallas evening and were greeted by Karet- nick. In addition to being a co-owner, he doubles as the maestro behind the bar. We started with an Ayinger Oktoberfest ($8), a dark, malty German Märzen. Meyboom has a nice list of select international ales and la- gers spanning Belgium, Germany, France, It- aly and the Czech Republic. But on this night, our focus was more on Katernick’s cocktail-fixing prowess. He owns an impres- sive array of alcohol certifications and has curated the drink menu. Our first cocktail was the Belgian Bee’s Knees ($13). Made with Clover gin from Bel- gium, honey syrup and lemon, it’s citrusy, bright and the perfect summertime (or any- time) drink to pair with Meyboom’s expan- sive patio when the weather warms back up. An espresso martini ($12) came next on Segovia’s recommendation: coffee liqueur and vodka in an espresso – this blew us away. Bold yet just sweet enough, and again exquisitely made. All of Meyboom’s cock- tails use natural ingredients, many of which are locally sourced. So how did Segovia and Katernick come up with the idea to bring this Belgium-in- spired bar to Lower Greenville? It was after a trip to Belgium that the pair took in 2019. The culture left such an indelible impres- sion that they decided to make it their mis- sion to open Meyboom, which means “tree of joy” and is a festival held annually in Brussels. The final drink we tried was the whis- key sour ($13), which gracefully toed the line between sour and sweet, balanced beautifully. Not to overstate it, but Kater- nick is quite the savant behind the bar. All of our cocktails were so smooth and pre- cise. Never harsh. From Katernick’s cre- ations to the contemporary classics, Meyboom Brasserie offers a range of skill- fully crafted cocktails in addition to beer and wine lists. And don’t forget the house shots. The Belgian Green Tea (Jameson and Lindeman’s Pêche) is already calling our name for next time. For bar bites, Meyboom offers elevated Belgian bar fare, all in small portions. The menu starts with a “petite plats” section with the most expensive item ringing in at $12. There’s also a side menu with several variations of fries and Bruxelles sprouts. And, naturally, a Liége waffle ($6) is on offer. We suggest Bitterballen ($11), delightful Dutch fried meatballs of braised beef thick- ened by roux and served with a delicious house mustard blend. The tempura beer- battered cod ($10) off the small bites menu is served with malt vinegar and is also a pop- ular choice; the Bruxelles sprouts, aka Brus- sels sprouts, were fantastic. This dish has a beer cheese sauce made with Duchesse De Bourgogne and is generously topped with Flemish bacon. Before heading out, we asked Segovia and Katernick what their ultimate vision was for Meyboom Brasserie. Segovia didn’t hesitate to answer. “We want it to be like Cheers,” she told us. 2100 Greenville Ave. Closed Monday; Tuesday – Thursday, 6 p.m. –11 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 6 p.m.– midnight; Sunday, 3 p.m. – 10 p.m. ▼ Food News Ciao, BaBy Carbone’s Will Close for renovations and reopen With neW name by Lauren Drewes DanieLs W e’ve long been fans of Carbone’s. It’s a staple on our Top 100 list as well as in our regular rotation of local spots to fill up on pasta. Owner Julian Barsotti opened this casual red-sauce Italian restaurant 10 years ago along Oak Lawn Av- enue as an ode to his roots in New Jersey, where his family owned an Italian grocery store called Carbone’s. However, a similarly named Italian restau- rant moved to Dallas earlier this year: Carbone. This was the fifth location for the brand; the original in New York received a Michelin star, which it subsequently lost this year. Regardless, this extravagant spot caused a ruckus among foodies and social media feeds and continues to be booked weeks out. There’s even a small sidecar restaurant and bar, Carbone Vino. Problem was that Carbone sans the apos- trophe opened just two miles away from the locally-owned Carbone’s. Confusion ensued, as it’s wont to do. Just like when Bisou from Houston opened a new restaurant one mile away from the West Village bakery, Bisous Bisous. Errant deliveries, phone calls and online reviews caused headaches. Finally, Bisous Bisous filed a trademark lawsuit, and it took nine months for the two restaurants to come to an agreement. Carbone’s and Carbone were on a similar path earlier this year: Barsotti filed a trade- mark suit against Carbone. However, the Dallas Morning News re- ported that Barsotti and the management team at Carbone, specifically its parent com- pany, Major Food Group (MFG), have reached an agreement out of court and have actually even become good friends. “In my restaurants, we often preach com- munication is the root of all success and fail- ure,” Barsotti wrote the Observer in an email. “I think this situation is a good exam- ple of that gospel. If Jeff [Zalaznick] and I had communicated earlier, our issue would have been resolved a long time ago.” Barsotti says he’s long been a fan of MFG and has eaten at the restaurant Torrisi Ital- ian Specialties since it opened. When he met MFG’s managing partner, Jeff Zalaznick, they instantly hit it off. “We have common interests and pas- sions. We like each other, and made the easy decision that we did not want to fight in court for 2-3 years,” Barsotti said, adding that the two similarly named restaurants are very different experiences. As for Carbone’s, Barsotti said he signed a 10-year lease extension prior to the lawsuit and had long planned a major renovation, which he now plans on executing. When he reopens the restaurant it will be under a new name. “When we opened in 2012, we were a hy- brid delicatessen, and full-service restaurant one day a week. We quickly pivoted to being a full-service restaurant all the time but were limited due to our original design concept. Our renovation will allow us to add a bar, more comfortable seating, and fix inefficien- cies that have limited our ability to expand the menu,” Barsotti says. In the end, given all circumstances, Bar- sotti says he was willing to compromise on the name. The people who have made Carbone’s the local institution it has grown to be aren’t going anywhere either. Barsotti says that Jonathan Neitzel, who is the chef “and runs the joint,” will be there for Carbone’s 2.0, as will pasta maker and “all around MVP” Juanita Cruz. Barsotti says he thinks it all happened for a reason and expects the new space to be el- evated, evolved and rejuvenated. Carbone’s will close for renovations on January 1, 2023, and expects to reopen within a couple of months. Carbone’s lasagna Bolognese Chris Wolfgang City of Ate from p13
