21 OctOber 24 - 30, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents chase. Graileys is “the country club of wine,” without the snobbery. Tango Room is a build upon that. “It was just a natural progression to get involved with something like lift this, but never, ever thought it would come to this quality,” Roberts says. Walking through the burgundy curtains might make diners feel a little overwhelmed. The Tango Room team is more than glad to take the experience out of your hands and guide you. “Listening is an underrated part of hospi- tality,” Bania says. Tango Room prizes connection over vol- ume. (Don’t let that fool you. Book those din- ner reservations early. Tango Room is often booked solid for prime dining hours.) It isn’t rare to see Gomez’s hospitality shine through. He ensures that he’s touching tables. Tango Room may be a homage to the steak house, but the seafood steals the show. The over-the-top fruits de mer ($95) is filled with fresh oysters, cocktail prawns, gener- ous king crab, and crab Louie salad. The seared foie gras ($28) is a delicacy. The buttermilk pain perdu, duck jus, cher- ries and hazelnuts combine to make a robust fatty, sweet and salty flavor profile. “French cuisine has always been a stable kickstand for everything that I’ve done,” Go- mez says. Gomez, a Colombian native, moved to the U.S. in 2008. Since obtaining his culinary degree, Gomez has quietly infiltrated the Dallas dining scene. His career began as part of the Omni Hotel’s 2011 opening team. He was part of the opening team of CBD Provi- sions and the French Room. He’s worked his way through the Headington portfolio in- cluding The Commissary, Wheelhouse, Sas- setta and Mirador. Gomez left his post as Monarch Dallas’ sous chef to become execu- tive chef of Tango Room. “For the vision of this restaurant, I really want to take pride in the ingredients and the availability of really nice, sustainable ingre- dients, and letting them speak for them- selves,” Gomez says. Gomez’s vision includes leaning into a seasonal menu and becoming charcuterie- forward. A new seasonal foie gras will have a duck ham. Kumquats and plums will soon make an appearance on the menu. Palladino is embracing his experience in menuless bartending and marrying that to Gomez’s seasonal approach. “His [Palladino’s] attention to details has been another elevation for us, more of a move in the right direction,” Roberts says. “He’s really good with people.” The intimate restaurant’s bar menu is an- chored by the famous caviar martini ($55). Palladino refreshed the cocktail menu with an arancello sidecar ($20), a housemade arancello, Calvados apple brandy, mandarin brandy and lemon. The cocktail menu isn’t constricting. “That’s just a guideline there,” Palladino says. “I can make you anything you want. ‘What are you in the mood for?’ People aren’t really used to that kind of going off- menu.” Roberts highly recommends Palladino’s old fashioned. It’s not on the menu, but it’s addictive, he raves. The wine program is substantial and backed by over thirty years of wine exper- tise. While it may feel intimidating, don’t be shy. Honesty is the best policy. “Sometimes it’s better to say that at the table, ‘give me a ballpark of where you are, what you’re looking at. I can come up with some suggestions. We love giving these guys suggestions or even give them a little taste,” Roberts says. If you find something you like, sommelier Nick Burns will drop a business card with your selection and further recommenda- tions at the table. With a $180, 12-ounce Westholme AU Wagyu NY strip and $85 lobster and caviar toast on the menu, a dinner at Tango Room comes with a price tag as luxurious as the space. The happy hour is a steal. Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 7 p.m., Tango Room hosts the finest happy hour. The fruits de mer is $55. Specialty cocktails and wines by glass are half off. Tango Room’s pieces have fallen into place. It quietly opened, mostly to the knowledge of Graileys’ guests, but is prov- ing to be a mainstay for Dallas’ finer pal- ettes. “We weren’t announcing from the roof- tops, there was this kind of slow build, we really just wanted it to kind of grow organi- cally,” Bania says. “This isn’t the shiny thing that’s going to be gone tomorrow. This thing is going to be here for a very long time.” courtesy Tango Room Steak at the Tango Room. SCAN HERE TO ENTER TO WIN TICKETS
