City of Ate from p17 order as well, soft and garlicky with a but- tery sheen to them. They were dressed with parsley and presented with a wagyu tallow candle and a sprig of rosemary. Balsamic vinegar made for a wonderfully scrumptious dipping experience. We contemplated ordering some meat, and could choose from a 16-ounce Rosewood wagyu New York strip, a veal rib chop, a pork chop and filet mignon, as well as a couple of larger dry-aged cuts to share. In the end, we decided on a couple of pasta dishes instead. The bucatini cacio e pepe ($17) was Cathe- dral’s take on the classic Roman dish, but using bucatini instead of spaghetti, of course, as well as grana Padano cheese in place of the pecorino Romano. It was good, if a bit over- sauced. We question why it was still called ca- cio e pepe with so many changes being made to the classic, simple recipe. Of course, the chef wants to make it his own, but perhaps some things should not be tinkered with. The rigatoni and wagyu Bolognese ($25) was prepared with Calabrian chili, charred peppers, mint, preserved lemon and mascar- pone. It was rich and complex, and we ap- preciated the attempt, even if the mint was, perhaps, a bit overpowering. Was the pasta really rigatoni, though? The length-to-di- ameter ratio was all off; rigatoni should not be that long, but maybe complaints of geom- etry are going too far. A pasta by any other name can still be good. For dessert, we went with the hazelnut quattro leche, because a mere tres leches is so last year. It was a pretty little plate with candied hazelnuts and pomegranate seeds. That extra leche must have done the trick. Cathedral also offers pizzas, including a prosciutto white pie and jalapeño Hawaiian, along with a bunch of sides typical of a steakhouse such as truffle fries and lobster mac and cheese. These would have to wait for another night; we had quattro leches to work off, after all. 8103 Rasor Blvd., No. 110, Plano; 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., Monday – Friday; 11 a.m. – midnight, Saturday; closed Sunday. ▼ EAT THIS TIKKA PIZZA H SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 12TH Energy Square Plaza • 4-7PM ENTER TO WIN 2 VIP TICKETS 18 DALLASOBSERVER.COM/ FREE/TACOLANDIAVIP 2 HOT PIZZA BRINGS INDIAN-INSPIRED PIZZA TO NORTH DALLAS. BY ANISHA HOLLA ot Pizza opened in Dallas in early 2021, infusing Indian flavors into the world of Italian pizza. Even though it’s a curious combination, it’s surprisingly good. Since opening, the small spot has gained quite a large fan base of pizza lovers, Indian food enthusiasts and just plain curi- ous foodies. The menu at this low-key pizza spot in Preston Trail Village along Preston Road has an almost daunting number of options. There are 37 different varieties, to be exact. Menu items are separated into sections for vegetarian, paneer (Indian cottage cheese) and chicken pizzas. But that’s about all the guidance you’ll get. The menu here is quite the playground. We tried the Ahmedabadi vegetable pizza first, named after a small locality in India. The pizza comes with a spicy red sauce base Anisha Hollah Hot Pizza’s Indian-inspired pies have won a following in North Dallas. topped with a blend of melted cheese, spicy ground garlic and fresh vegetables. At first glance, it looks like a typical vegetable pizza. But just a whiff will tell you otherwise; the red sauce on this pizza is packed with flavors (and aromas) of hot Indian chili pepper. The vegetables are sauteed in various Indian spices too. If you like your pizza with a nice kick at the end, this one is for you. The chicken tikka pizza is another hard- to-miss specialty here that comes with a spicy tikka-based red sauce and buttered protein — either chicken or paneer. It’s topped with green pepper, melted cheese and green onion for some extra flavor. For butter chicken in pizza form, it certainly wasn’t bad. Other popular options include the masala chat pizza, inspired by the North Indian street food masala chat, and the cilantro chicken pizza, which comes with a creamy garlic sauce, chicken and cilantro chutney weaved throughout. All the pizzas come in 10-inch ($9.79), 12- inch ($13.39) and 14-inch ($16.79) sizes. Think New York Style; the large easily feeds three to four people and seems like the best value. Just make some space in the refrigera- tor for leftovers the next day. For sides, order a box of cheesy Achari Bread ($4.99), a crispy garlic bread that comes with a powdered Indian pickle (achari) on top. The portion size is on the smaller side but still packs rich flavors of the Indian subcontinent. The Smacking Pesto Bread ($4.99) is made with a similar bread but comes with a spread of pesto and onions, sauteed Indian style. Enjoy your pizza in the restaurant’s small dining room or pick up to eat at home. Hot Pizza doesn’t do delivery, but you can order ahead on the website. It’s open until mid- night on Friday and Saturday. Hot Pizza, 17194 Preston Road, No. 102. 11 a.m. – 9 p.m., Monday – Thursday; 11 a.m. – midnight, Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., Sunday ▼ FRESH LOOK HELLO, OLD FRIEND I REVISITING SHINSEI, A GEM THAT STILL SHINES AMONG ALL THAT’S NEW. BY CHRIS WOLFGANG t’s easy to get caught up in everything new going on in Dallas dining; we’re certainly complicit in that addiction to shiny new things. But it’s good to remember that Dallas is full of restaurants serving splendid fare that have, sometimes, slipped our minds. We were reminded of this recently while studying up on Dea, the new Italian restau- rant from Tracy Rathbun and Lynae Fearing that will take over the former Fireside Pies space on Inwood Road. Rathbun and Fearing already run Lovers Seafood and Shinsei, and Dea will give them a trio of restaurants all on the same block. We stole a look at Dea’s new dining room, and a more formal first look will be coming soon now that it’s open for busi- ness. But while we were in the neighborhood, we popped in for dinner at Shinsei, where we hadn’t dined in some time. That absence is a shame because Shinsei has been turning out high-quality sushi and Pan-Asian dishes for more than 12 years. While it’s been quite a while since we’ve darkened Shinsei’s door, the same can’t be said for the locals, who treat Shinsei as their neighborhood watering hole that just so hap- pens to double as a glossy upscale restaurant. On our recent Monday visit, the dining room was packed. You can make a reserva- tion, but it’s also possible to nab a seat at the sushi counter or at the upstairs or downstairs bars. Mondays also mean half-price on many bottles of wine on Shinsei’s wine list, which likely drives people in the door too. But we also learned there’s a list of food specials that change every other week, and that’s where we chose to do some exploring. Most specials hail from the sushi bar under the guidance of Shuji Sugawara, Shinsei’s sushi chef whose resume includes stops at Tei Tei Robota and the recently closed Teppo. Whether your tastes lie with raw or cooked, there’s likely a gem to be found. We tried a blackened salmon roll ($20): flaky salmon was topped with paper-thin lemon slices and placed on a roll with cornmeal- crusted oyster, avocado and asparagus. The crunchiness from the asparagus and cornmeal played nicely against the delicate salmon. On the raw side, we tried the Esping roll ($22), which has been on the specials for several weeks due to popular demand. It’s a roll of salmon and hamachi yellowtail brightened with dill and lemon zest, with avocado for richness. Compared to the blackened salmon, the Esping roll tastes much lighter and cleaner, and the two rolls made for a great combination of flavors. Throw in a side of tempura cauliflower im- bued with spicy gochujang sauce ($12) off the regular menu, and our meal hit all the sa- vory, citrusy and spicy notes. Shinsei’s specials change every other Fri- day, so your experience may be a little differ- ent but no less enjoyable. Spots like Shinsei remind us that Dallas dining may have its new favorites, but our old standbys are still here to impress, and we’re in for all of it. Shinsei, 7713 Inwood Road, Monday – Thursday, 5 p.m. – 10 p.m., Friday – Saturday, 5 p.m. – 11 p.m. OCTOBER 20-26, 2022 DALLAS OBSERVER CLASSIFIED | MUSIC | DISH | CULTURE | UNFAIR PARK | CONTENTS dallasobserver.com MONTH XX–MONTH XX, 2014 DALLAS OBSERVER | CLASSIFIED | MUSIC | DISH | MOVIES | CULTURE | NIGHT+DAY | FEATURE | SCHUTZE | UNFAIR PARK | CONTENTS | dallasobserver.com
