▼ Dish Great French Food Isn’t Stuffy Knox Bistro shifts our notions of French cuisine. BY CHRIS WOLFGANG W hether you realize it or not, much of what you experience when din- ing out has its origins in France. Restaurants themselves are a relatively modern creation and, notably, a French one (the word “res- taurant” is derived from the French verb restaurer, to provide food for). The etymol- ogy doesn’t stop there; chefs, menus, cui- sines and much more of the culinary lingo all trace their roots to the French language. Then there’s the perception that French cuisine is always of the highest quality. We subconsciously hold chefs who train in France in high regard, as if cooking is an im- mutable part of the French identity. That perception also lives in American psyches but is manifested in different ways, where too often we associate French cuisine with stuffiness, arrogance, overpriced fare or some combination of the three. Thankfully, Dallasites have Knox Bistro to show off the best that French cuisine has to offer in a much more approachable fashion. Chef Bruno Davaillon stepped away from Bullion at the beginning of 2020, and in 2021 he quietly partnered with fellow French- man and restaurateur Stephan Courseau of Travis Street Hospitality to take the reins of the brasserie Up On Knox. When Davaillon arrived, much of the Up On Knox menu and staff were already in place. Earlier this year, Up On Knox got a reboot as Knox Bistro, with more of Davaillon’s fingerprints on the finished product. Knox Bistro’s focus leans toward French country, inspired by Davaillon’s roots in France’s Loire Valley. Aside from French ti- tles for every dish, the menu feels eminently welcoming, with a focus on high-quality in- gredients that are seasonally appropriate — the waiter on our most recent visit shared that a menu update for the fall is coming soon — yet beautifully and simply prepared. Take the potato, an uncomplicated starchy vegetable that we’ve all eaten in doz- ens of dishes and have likely given little thought to. It finds its way into several of Knox Bistro’s entrees, and here the potato is a revelation. Bite-sized pieces are roasted to a slightly crispy exterior with a touch of gar- lic and rosemary, revealing an absurdly light and fluffy interior. By themselves (you can order a side of Alison McLean them for $9), the simplicity of the potato shines; each bite marries bits of herb and starch with crispy and fluffy textures that will have you forever rethinking lesser tu- bers. But when they appear in dishes like the grilled scallops ($38), the potatoes pick up flavors of butter sauce or mushrooms that make up the dish. And the scallops them- selves are grilled to perfection, mildly briny and nutty, each succulent bite just a bit bet- ter than the one before it, flavors melding into something magical. There are also potatoes to be found in the chicken fricassee ($28), available only on Wednesdays as part of the cast of rotating weekly specials. There’s a half chicken in the bowl, potatoes soaking up the flavors of the vinegar and wine sauce that coat each bite. The skin-on chicken is elegant in its simplicity, nary a bite overcooked, whether you prefer the white meat of the breast and wings or the darker legs and thighs. So much of the food at Knox Bistro fol- lows the same model — ingredients that aren’t at all complex but are so brilliantly ex- ecuted that they taste like something new and fresh. Opening with a cheese soufflé ($21) before our meal on our first visit sets the perfect French tone, the soufflé rising in its cast iron skillet with delicate authority, each bite a cheesy cloud that evaporates in your mouth. The soufflé arrives with a sim- ple butter leaf lettuce and radish salad, dressed with a dill vinaigrette that whispers instead of shouts. On another visit, our waiter suggested we start with the rillettes de poisson ($14), a smoked fish dip that’s served with slivers of crisped baguettes. The creaminess and smokiness in the dip are nearly above re- proach, with bits of celery and radish to provide a crunchy counterpoint and deli- cate trout roe adding to the visual and gas- tronomic appeal. Fish and seafood make up a large portion of Bright and airy, Knox Bistro excels in cuisine and atmosphere. Left: Knox Bistro’s delicious cloud-like cheese soufflé. naturally dominate, but whites and spar- kling wines are well represented, with all but a handful priced under $20 per glass. Perhaps the best part of the Knox Bistro Alison McLean Knox Bistro’s menu, and we failed to find a weak link. There’s a whole branzino ($38) pre- pared on a wood grill, then topped with an ol- ive tapenade. The fish, flaky and mild, is given a salty zing from the tapenade that speaks French with an Italian accent straight from the Mediterranean. But if seafood isn’t your thing, Knox Bistro’s wood grill will turn out a delicious pork chop ($46) cooked exactly how you like it. We ordered ours medium, and it ar- rived with a perfect rich pink center, sliced off the bone and splayed across the plate with a tangy mustard sauce on top and a flavorful side of mushroom and pea ragout. Order sparingly, and you might have room for dessert. The chocolate soufflé ($14) should be considered a mandatory order. Ex- pect to wait 10 to 15 minutes for it to arrive at your table, and use that time to brace yourself for the experience. If you’re like us, you will still struggle for the words to describe it. Light yet rich, chocolaty yet still bright, it might be the essence of French cooking, bor- dering on a religious experience. And what is French dining without wine? Knox Bistro makes no mistake here, with two dozen options by the glass. Reds experience is just how relaxed everything feels. The space itself is bright and airy, lit by floor-to-ceiling windows that might be opened if the weather agrees on your visit. Wicker-backed chairs give a touch of Old World style, while more casual linens and plates complete the French country feel. The service is smart, and despite what felt like a staff of three waiting on us on both of our visits, we never feel rushed or smoth- ered by the attention. Many of us have long thought of French restaurants as the domain of the upper class, full of tuxedoed waiters serving food, the el- egance and lifestyle beyond our reach. Per- haps we can blame 1980s movies like The Blues Brothers or Ferris Bueller’s Day Off for reinforcing the stereotype. But allow us to present Knox Bistro as the counterpoint. Yes, a $100 meal for two might be something best saved for special occasions for many of us (lunch and brunch offer similar brilliance with more values on the menu). But there are lessons to be taken from dining at Knox Bistro. Davaillon and his team show us that French food and tech- nique are really that good, even when it’s de- lightfully simple. It’s even better when it’s presented with the casual elegance that is Knox Bistro’s calling card, and you don’t need to be Abe Froman, the Sausage King of Chicago, to enjoy it. Knox Bistro, 3230 Knox St., No. 140. Monday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Tuesday – Thurs- day, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.; Saturday, 9:30 a.m – 11 p.m; Sunday 9:30 a.m – 3 p.m. 1 13 dallasobserver.com dallasobserver.com | CONTENTS | UNFAIR PARK | SCHUTZE | FEATURE | NIGHT+DAY | CULTURE | MOVIES | DISH | MUSIC | CLASSIFIED | CLASSIFIED | MUSIC | DISH | CULTURE | UNFAIR PARK | CONTENTS DALLAS OBSERVER DALLAS OBSERVER MONTH XX–MONTH XX, 2014 OCTOBER 13-19, 2022
