17 OctOber 3 - 9, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Still Hunky at 40 Cedar Springs diner and LGBTQ safe space Hunky’s is celebrating its 40th anniversary. BY CARLY MAY GRAVLEY T he original Hunky’s Old-Fash- ioned Hamburgers in Oak Lawn lives up to the “old-fashioned” part of its name. It’s all chrome, red vinyl and neon signs, ‘50s kitsch filtered through ‘80s nostalgia. Every time we’ve gone, upbeat dance music has been playing over the speakers, from retro icons like ABBA to current tastemakers like Charli XCX. The atmosphere is fun and joyful, but lowkey enough for an early meal out on a weeknight. It’s the kind of place that’s equally fun for a first date or a family dinner. But the main event at Hunky’s is, of course, the burgers. There are 23 different kinds of burgers with patty and condiment options that’ll make your head spin. Be- tween the bevy of burgers and other tanta- lizing menu options like hot dogs, sandwiches, “sexy salads” and milkshakes, it’s impossible to leave Hunky’s without feel- ing sleepy, a little bloated and, above all else, happy. (There’s a reason we named it one of our best restaurants to eat at when you’re high. It’s munchie-friendly “to the max,” to bor- row some ‘80s slang.) All of the things that make Hunky’s wholesome and nostalgic are also what made it a forward-thinking breath of fresh air when it opened in 1984. As the restaurant celebrates its 40th anniversary this month, it feels as vital to Oak Lawn’s “gayborhood” as ever. Hunky’s birthday was celebrated first with an intimate celebration at its original Cedar Springs location attended by staff, friends and the guest of honor, founder Rick Barton. The walls were lined with old pictures of Hunky’s history as well as cheeky ads that ran in local newspapers back in the day. “A lot of these were in the Observer in the ‘80s,” Barton tells us. “[The paper] was pretty wild back then.” Barton is proud of his role in Oak Lawn’s history and of Hunky’s place at the historic Cedar Springs crossroads. “It’s been amazing to have survived 40 years,” Barton says. “This is an incredible street and an incredible group of people that live and work down here and have for the last 40 years. I’ve seen a lot of things come and go. It’s been very rewarding.” Hunky’s was one of the first businesses in Dallas to cater to LGBTQ customers that wasn’t a bar or a club, and the casual, family- friendly environment was embraced by the community. “We had so many people who met at Hun- ky’s and people who came out to their rela- tives at Hunky’s,” says Barton. “That wasn’t so common [in the ‘80s] like today, and it’s still a safe space for people to come today.” Barton founded Hunky’s with his brother, David, who died of AIDS complica- tions in 1993. Barton had numerous business partners over the years and at one point wholly owned the business himself. When he reached a point where he was ready to sell the business earlier this year, a longtime Hunky’s regular jumped at the chance to take over. “I started going to Hunky’s in 1984 when I worked for Women’s Wear Daily at the Dal- las Apparel Mart,” says Jeffrey Yarbrough, president of BigInk Commercial Real Estate. “I would take clients there to eat one of the best handmade burgers in town. The staff at Hunky’s was always friendly. I could tell this was a special place for many people. It didn’t matter if you were from Decatur or Dallas, straight or gay, black or white. You were welcome at this spot.” When Yarbrough took over in March, he had one promise for his fellow fans: No changes. “Places like Hunky’s have a proven con- cept that defies time, “ he says. “It has a soul, and the guests know it.” Yarbrough echoes Barton’s emphasis on the importance of Hunky’s to its queer cus- tomers. “We have heard so many stories from men and women who came out to their fam- ilies at Hunky’s,” Yarbrough says. “There is something about people eating comfort food that makes life a little better, no matter how challenging the topic.” ▼ STATE FAIR STILL BETTER THAN NO- ALCOHOL BEER COTTON CANDY BACON BEER? MUSTARD BEER FOR YOUR CORN DOG? ONLY AT THE STATE FAIR OF TEXAS. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS W hat’s better than a Fletcher’s Corny Dog at the State Fair of Texas? Perhaps a mustard beer to dip it in. Dallas craft breweries are whipping up some interesting concoctions for the fair. Community Beer started the trend a decade ago with Funnel Cake Ale, a golden ale in- fused with whole Madagascar vanilla beans, a bit sweet on the lips and light like pow- dered sugar. It was a hit and is now part of the Dallas brewery’s regular rotation, widely sold in stores during the fall. This year Martin House Brewing out of Fort Worth is introducing a new beer that you can only get at the fair, which kicks off this Friday, Sept. 27. With staples like Salty Lady and Day Break Specialty Grain, Martin House in Fort Worth is known for flashy bits, like its popu- lar Best Maid Sour Pickle beer (yes, pickle beer). They once made a Fiery Crunchy Cheesie Bois 5.2% ABV sour beer using ac- tual crushed Cheetos in the brewing pro- cess. This year they’ve partnered with the in- ventor of the corny dog, Fletcher’s, for a mustard beer that will only be sold on draft at Fletcher’s stands. This isn’t a corny dog beer, though. Think of it as a condiment. “The beer is mustard flavored,” says Shugg Cole at Martin House Brewing Com- pany. “The brew recipe equated to about one gallon of mustard per keg.” Cole says they started with a Best Maid Sour Pickle beer base and added 10 gallons of mustard to each batch while in the fermenter. “Easy peasy,” Cole says of the process. As mentioned, the beer is on draft at three Fletcher’s stands at the fair: The Corny Cafe, the stand near Big Tex and the Thrill- way stand. “If we have some kegs left, we’ll tap ‘em up in the taproom, but no plans to do that as of yet,” Cole says. Cole has a tip for those who try it: “You gotta dip it.” It’s said to taste like mustard with a boozy kick. We’re not sure what to make of this one. Ketchup people are just out of luck. Or maybe not. Meanwhile, Lakewood Brewing Com- pany has teamed up with Isaac Rousso of Rousso’s Concessions, the winner of this year’s Big Tex Choice Awards — Best Sweet for their cotton candy bacon on a stick. Rousso slaps a thick, 12-inch long piece of bacon on a stick and runs it through the cot- ton candy machine before using a small blow torch to caramelize the pink sugar to the ba- con. We’ve tried it and we like it — a lot. Lakewood’s Cotton Candy Bacon Beer is a slightly sweet, easy-drinking blonde ale. Wim Bens, co-founder of Lakewood Brew- ing, won’t say how he imparted a bacon fla- vor in the beer, citing trade secrets. This beer will be released in the taproom and at the fair in the Magnolia Beer Garden on Sept. 27. Fletcher’s Corny Dogs The new beer from Martin House is said to taste like “mustard with a boozy kick” and you should dip your corn dog in it. | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish Carly May Gravley Hunky’s, which has hosted countless milestones for Oak Lawn’s LGBTQ community, is celebrating one of its own this month. >> p18
