15 September 28–OctOber 4, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Coco Ichibanya’s Lands in North Texas Is it worth the hype? BY ANISHA HOLLA C rowds of families, couples and solo diners gathered around Coco Ichibanya’s new Frisco storefront this past weekend, all united by an ache to get a taste of one of Japan’s most acclaimed curry spots. The Japanese restaurant’s grand opening has been in the works for more than five months, a wait that — according to manager Mike Clark — was fueled by “unexpected shortages.” The delays have been difficult for more than 100 Google reviewers, who have racked up restless anticipation over the spot months before it finally opened its doors to the public. But to the delight of curry lovers, curious Dallas foodies and those restless Google re- viewers, Coco Ichibanya celebrated its soft opening on Sept. 5. It’s currently a two-hour wait just to get your foot in the door on week- ends. But we decided to brave the crowds and prove (or disprove) the hype for ourselves. The seating area is small, housing about 10 tables max. Whether it’s a preview of an intimate, family-style meal or an indication that the restaurant didn’t anticipate this much attention, a small dining space and limited staff mean long wait times. We sug- gest you come on a weekday afternoon to save yourself the wait. Once you’re seated, it takes another 30 minutes or so to have your curry delivered to the table. The popular restaurant, with over 1,400 locations worldwide, is best known for its characteristically large plates of Japanese curry, which can be ordered with a spice level ranging from 1 to 24. All contain the same curry-and-rice base, differing only in toppings. Take your pick of proteins like fried chicken, thin-sliced beef or pork dumplings, complemented by additions like vegetable croquettes, chopped mushrooms or shredded cheese. A chef-curated and time-tested menu makes virtually any choice a good one. The spot is popular for good reasons. Not only is the atmosphere warm and ser- vice friendly, but the food is good. Smooth in texture and thick in consistency, the curry melds well into the bed of plain white rice underneath. It’s served warm, making it a comforting accompaniment to crispy fried katsu, chopped vegetables or just about anything else you decide to dump on top. The portions aren’t too shabby, either. At least initially, order a couple of plates to share at the table. Quick service makes it easy to add to your order should your hun- ger persist. And there’s more than just rice and curry. French fries, which can be enhanced by gar- lic or baked cheese topping, are a popular choice. Coco Ichibanya’s nan is another well-received side dish: the fluffy round of buttermilk bread is crafted intentionally for curry-dipping. If you find yourself scraping at the bottom of your plate (as we did), an extra side of curry retails for $5.29. Finish off your meal with a slice of cheesecake or custard pudding. Despite ini- tial delays and long wait times, the quality of Coco Ichibanya’s food is what we think makes for long lines. Bring some patience, an appetite and a willingness to immerse yourself in the world of Japanese curry. Coco Ichinbanya is the place for it. Coco Ichibanya, 9351 Warren Parkway, Frisco. Daily, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. ▼ FIRST LOOK 448 MARTINIS ON THE WALL TINA’S CONTINENTAL BRINGS MID- CENTURY LOUNGE VIBES TO DEEP ELLUM.BY CHRIS WOLFGANG L et’s get the bad stuff out of the way. Ti- na’s Continental in Deep Ellum is a lit- tle hard to find. You may be familiar with the Continental Gin building, built in 1888 and once the largest manufacturer of cotton processing equipment in the United States. If you don’t know its history, you surely have seen the water tower perched on the roof; it’s a prominent part of the Deep El- lum skyline. That tower should be your guide star to the entrance to Tina’s Continental (and the equally hidden Tatsu next door). Tina’s is the latest effort from Dallas- based UNCO Hospitality, which is responsi- ble for popular spots such as Hero, HG Sply Co. and Leela’s Pizza and Wine. Unlike its sister establishments, Tina’s Continental is a classic cocktail bar at heart, which means the menu is beverages only, with no food to be had. That’s not completely accurate. Take your seat at the bar or one of the half-dozen tables, and a complimentary bowl of bar mix quickly appears. Grab a handful, and you’ll find they disappear quickly into your mouth as if by second nature. In the usual mix of peanuts and Chex cereal, we also found almonds, dried mangos and jalape- ños, all collaborating in a sweet, spicy and salty symphony. Our bartender told us the entire concoction is sprinkled with the poultry rub from Hero and HG Sply. The result is a snack so addictively good that we’re shocked it’s not federally regulated. The vibe of Tina’s is straight-up mid-cen- tury class, so it should come as no surprise that martinis and their descendants make up half the menu. Tina’s martini selections are part menu, part educational experience, and you can tweak each component of the classic to your liking. There are seven gins and five vodkas to start with, then eight lev- els of flavor preference, from extra dry (no vermouth) to extra filthy (equal parts spirit and olive brine). You can have your martini stirred (“this is the law”) or shaken (“laws are meant to be broken”), then select olives, citrus or onions for your garnish. Feel free to check our math, but with 448 possible combinations, surely you can order one just as you prefer. Our personal pick — Grey Goose, dirty, with olives, stirred because shaking bruises the liquor — was perfectly prepared and the ideal re- laxing sipper after a long work day. At $17, the price feels in line with other craft cock- tail bars. Tina’s offers other cocktail variations, and prices feel equally fair. We ordered an espresso martini ($13.79) with espresso-in- fused vodka, Mr. Black, Frangelico and cream. The cost includes a light show as our bartender toasted cinnamon with a blow torch as she garnished our drink. The rest of the menu at Tina’s Continen- tal touches on classic drinks, wine and bot- tled beer. Old-school favorites like Grasshoppers and Palomas are part of the signature cocktails list, and half a dozen wines are available by either the glass or the bottle. A small selection of frozen drinks has unique takes on classics like a frozen Man- hattan, Old Fashioned, martini or Negroni. All of this cocktail goodness is presented in a cozy and intimate space that oozes Don Draper levels of charm. There are half a dozen seats at the bar, and small tables and banquettes offer additional seating, all uphol- stered in buttery soft leather the color of but- ternut squash that pops against the navy walls. The lights are dimmed, and the music set at the perfect level for you to hear a classic track but not intrude on your conversation. With a location just on the eastern edge of Deep Ellum, Tina’s Continental closes at a relatively early 11 p.m. and shies away from the vibrancy of the rest of the neigh- borhood. That seems to be by design, mak- ing Tina’s an ideal spot for a cocktail before dinner or a place you could slide into after a meal for a quiet nightcap. It adds up to a classy yet low-key feel that we can’t help but adore. And, there’s plenty of free park- ing after 5 p.m. Tina’s Continental, 3309 Elm St., No.113. Tuesday – Saturday, 4–11 p.m. | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish Anisha Holla Coco Ichibanya brings Japan’s authentic curry restaurant to Frisco. >> p16
