Lakewood Brewing Co. is celebrating 10 years of craft beer this year. continued from page 14 Brewers Associa- tion, in 2014 there were 117 craſt breweries in Texas with an economic impact of $3.7 billion; in 2019 those numbers had grown to 341 breweries and $5.4 billion. Impact per capita across the state has risen from $205 to $270 over that fi ve-year span. Aſt er a pandemic slump, breweries are almost back to those 2019 numbers. By 2021, the number of breweries jumped to 406, with North Texas account- ing for about a quarter of the total. Aſt er years of wrestling for updated state legislation, the craſt beer industry scored some wins that allowed them to sell beer in their breweries (2013) and beer-to-go (2019). Th at has led to biergartens full of locals drinking local beers. Additionally, craſt beers line the coolers at stores, and it’s no longer unusual for a bar to have local options on tap. Today, the question isn’t, “Do you have anything local?” but rather “Which local beers do you have?” Breweries are fi nding ways to thrive by creating community spaces, off ering unique experiences and food along with craſt beer to build loyalty to a place as much as a particular beer. While some question the strategy of pandering to Dal- las’ fi ckle palate and valuing engagement and experience, it appears there’s room for everyone at the tap. Perhaps you remember the fi rst time you sipped a Blood and Honey from Revolver Brewing Co. Or maybe your ah-ha craft beer moment came with a glass of Velvet Hammer. At the beginning of the local craft boom, there were gateway beers leading a goodwill campaign, charming anyone who would imbibe. “Velvet Hammer, Blood and Honey, 16 Lakewood’s Temptress and Community’s Mosiac defi ned North Texas beer and to a large extent still do,” says Peticolas, founder and owner of Peticolas Brewing Co., which brews Velvet Hammer. As the beer industry has grown across the state, with some 90 breweries across North Texas alone, new beers are tapped weekly. It’s a busy fi eld, and there’s a need to stay relevant and stand out. Is that good or bad for craſt beer? Th e answer depends on whom you ask. “What’s hip today might be nothing tomorrow,” says Dennis Wehrmann, who founded Franconia Brewing Co. in McKin- ney in 2008 but has since sold his stake in that company and now keeps himself busy brewing at Beard Science Sour House at Th e Truck Yard in Th e Colony. Wehrmann thinks the evolution of the craſt beer scene over the past 10 years is good but worries that breweries are missing a chance to establish their own brand by trying to keep up with fads. “Th e customers couldn’t make a deci- sion. Now there’s this place, maybe we need to go over there. Th ere’s another new brewery, now let’s try this one out. None of these breweries had a chance to establish their brewery and brand. Th ey didn’t have a chance to establish customer loyalty,” Wehrmann says. With monthly and sometimes weekly new beers, Wehrmann says, overpro- duction of beer styles got out of control. “Crazy stuff happened,” he says. “If you look around in the market today, what is con- sidered beer, it’s not actually beer anymore. It’s fermented water with carbonation in it and called seltzer.” Brian Brown runs a website Beerin- BigD.com, which documents the craft beer scene in North Texas. Brown agrees that drinkers are “always in search of the shiny new penny.” “Brand loyalty is fl eeting with some fa- voring whoever stays on top of the latest trends. Plus, demand calls for a steady fl ow of new releases,” Brown says. “You’re doing it wrong if you focus on classic styles brewed year-round. It’s unfortunate, because it feels like the timing of these factors has hindered SEPTEMBER 8-14, 2022 DALLAS OBSERVER CLASSIFIED | MUSIC | DISH | CULTURE | UNFAIR PARK | CONTENTS dallasobserver.com NATHAN HUNSINGER
