19 August 31 - september 6, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents $12,000. Fernie’s Funnel Cakes, a long-time fair favorite, needed to make more than $80,000 a day. So, while winning is an honor, it comes with massive ex- pectations, which is one of the reasons contestants need to have prior experience as vendors at the fair. They really have to know what they’re getting into. The rules for submission in the final competition, in addi- tion to a minimum of one year as a concessionaire, state that only new items can be consid- ered (nothing that has been on a fair menu previously), and the food must be served at the fair exactly as it is presented at the competition. The finalists are judged on presentation (visual appeal), taste and creativity. The judges assign a score of 1 through 10 for each criterion, which are weighted and ranked. The item with the highest creative score wins the most creative award. Without further powdered sugar, here are this year’s Big Tex Choice Award Winners: Best Taste Savory Deep Fried Pho by Michelle Le A wonton wrapper holds noodles, thin slices of beef, fresh herbs and bean sprouts, which are all deep fried and served with a side of pho broth for dunking along with lime, jala- peños, cilantro, hoisin sauce and Sriracha. Best Taste Sweet Biscoff Delight by Stephen El Gidi A stick is shoved through a slice of New York-style cheesecake, which is coated in Belgian chocolate and Biscoff cookie crum- bles then drizzled with Lotus Biscoff spread and topped with one Biscoff cookie. Most Creative Bourbon Banana Caramel Sopapillas by Cody and Lauren Hays We called this one. To someone somewhere, maybe under our breath, but we knew this one would win something. Sopapillas are topped with vanilla-caramel-infused bananas, sweet bourbon syrup, crushed candied pecans, sweet mascarpone cheese, crumbled Nilla wafers and a dusting of powdered sugar. The fair opens on Sept. 29 and runs through Oct. 22. No running, just walk. ▼ OPENINGS SLOW COOKED 17 YEARS IN THE MAKING, VIA TRIOZZI HAS OPENED ON GREENVILLE. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS C hef Leigh Hutchinson had a vision for a new restaurant while standing in the Piazza della Republica in Flor- ence. At the time, she was a college student on a semester abroad program. She was mesmerized by the pace of life and rich cul- ture swirling around her in Italy and told herself at that moment she would one day bring this back to her hometown. Well, guess what Dallas? Reservations are now open. It was a long road to get here, however. After that initial trip, Hutchinson, who is from a tight-knit Italian family in Coppell, went back to Italy, Florence specifically, where she spent two years completing a cu- linary program. While there, as one is wont to do, she traveled throughout the country, eating and learning. She even worked at an olive crush and a wine harvest. What in God’s name brought her back from a land flowing with olives and wine? We don’t know. The world is full of mys- teries. Before returning to Texas, Hutchinson spent time working at restaurants owned by two of her uncles in Buffalo, New York, mak- ing pasta at one during the day and as a line cook at the other at night. Once back in Texas, she worked at St. Roc- co’s and Beverly’s. And now, 17 years after that visionary moment in Florence, she’s got her own restaurant, and we’re giddy to get a table. Via Triozzi is named for a street in Scan- dicci, a town in the hills near Florence, where Hutchinson lived in a 15th-century villa. The new restaurant on Lower Greenville has high ceilings, a checkerboard terrazzo floor and photos of her Italian family on the walls. All the pasta is made in-house, in a glassed-in room at the front of the space. The wine list is focused on low-interven- tion wines from small producers, and women- and family-owned vineyards. Pours are by the glass, half-carafe or full liter. As for the menu, while in Italy, Hutchin- son spent time learning how to create lasa- gne al forno made with Bolognese, besciamella (a bechamel sauce) and pecorino romano. Naturally, it’s on the menu here ($38) and it’s also available in ready-to- go containers, which might be dangerous. Growing up, Hutchinson spent Sundays in the kitchen of her grandmother who also gets a nod on the menu with a chicken cac- ciatore and pane bianco. Other menu highlights include a coccoli: crispy dough with stracchino cheese and 20-month prosciutto de San Daniele. There’s a tagliatelle with ragu Bolognese and bistecca alla fiorentina featuring a Texas-raised porterhouse for two. Reservations are open, and walk-ins are welcome. Valet is complimentary. Via Triozzi, 1806 Greenville Ave. Sunday – Monday and Wednesday – Thursday, 5–10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 5–11 p.m.; closed Tuesday. Courtesy of Via Triozzi Tagliatelle Bolognese at Via Triozzi City of Ate from p16 12817 Preston Road, Suite 105 • 972-392-0190 indiapalacedallas.com Summer spice up your
