15 August 24 - 30, 2023 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents The Hidden Gems of Dallas (for Now) Who doesn’t like discovering a little unexplored restaurant? We’ve pulled together a list of spots that offer experiences infused with culture and amazing food. BY HANK VAUGHN AND LAUREN DREWES DANIELS O ne day in January, Cecilia Pa- checo walked into the Save Way Food Mart, a small gas station in West Grand Prai- rie, to buy some scratch-off lottery tickets when she noticed a kitchen in the back corner. She and her son, Adan, had been running Pacheco Taco N Burger through pop-ups and briefly with a food trailer, but the only time they used the latter was to cater a Halloween party at Cowboys quarterback Dak Prescott’s house. (They knew someone who knew someone who got them the gig.) But the Pachecos were looking for a more permanent spot. At the time, someone else was running a food business out of the corner kitchen at the Save Way, but busi- ness wasn’t going well. He needed help. Cecilia has experience in big kitchens. For 16 years, she worked at one of Emeril Lagasse’s restaurants in Las Vegas. A small corner kitchen? She’d slay it. Adan gradu- ated from the culinary program at Tarrant County College. Together they cover all the bases of menu concepts, recipes, prep and cooking. It wasn’t long before the corner kitchen at the Save Way became home base for the Pachecos. When you drive over to Pacheco Taco N Burger, go slow on approach. On our first at- tempt, we flew past it, hitting the brakes hard after catching a glimpse of a small black sign on the side of a convenience store. The four- lane street was empty, so after a quick U-turn we were pulling into the parking lot. Learning about it in the first place was completely by chance. One day during lunch while using a phone map app for directions to Pacheco Taco Bar, a Tex-Mex restaurant in Las Colinas, a red dot for another Pacheco popped up. It was closer. A few taps later, in- stead of the spot in Las Colinas, this other Pa- checo in Grand Prarie was wooing hard with a sultry Instagram feed. Cheesy smash burgers and mounds of carne asada-loaded fries won. Save Mart is your typical neighborhood bo- dega. Some type of bell rings when the door opens, and a guy behind the counter smiles and nods. The line of coolers at the back hums with chilled beverages. It’s dim. Neighborhood kids in flip-flops and sleeveless shirts pop in for sodas and chips. The store has to be five de- cades old and wears every tired day of it. In a back corner might be the smallest restaurant in Dallas County. Two folding ta- bles — one four-top, one two-top — sit in front of the kitchen. A small counter is un- der construction and has several bar stools. No matter — it works. For these burgers and tacos, it absolutely works. A basic smash burger here is $8, but pony up another three bucks (still wildly afford- able) for the double, where two balls of ground beef are smashed and seared on a sizzling grill, topped with American cheese, caramelized onions and a special sauce (it channels salsa verde). For a side, indulge in the loaded carne asada fries. This is what will lure you back to this Grand Prairie neighborhood time and time again. Crisp and not-at-all-soggy fries are loaded with tender bites of steak, ranch, sour cream, salsa verde, queso and bacon. This is the live, laugh, love font of flavor. But wait. We’re not done here. Wash this down with house-made aguas frescas, spe- cifically the cucumber lemonade. The cu- cumber lays down its refreshing and cleansing base, punctuated with bursts of brightness from the lemon. A touch though; not a squirt too much. This beverage has better pop and balance than Simone Biles. And if you’re wondering whether it’s good for cocktails, you bet your gin ass it is. Get two to go, which are $5 each but worth it. They need to sell this by the gallon. All because of some scratch-offs. Finding off-the-beaten-path restaurants is a hobby of sorts. Perhaps a lifestyle. Wad- ing into new territory with a menu that pushes us out of our comfort zone is some- thing we seek out daily. We’ve spent a fair amount of time doing such and have gath- ered together 10 of our best finds to date for 2023. After all, those named in our hidden gem 2022 story theoretically are not as hid- den now, though they’re still gems. It might be wise to try some of these out while they remain relatively hidden. After all, Jimmy’s Food Store was at one time con- sidered a hidden gem, but have you tried to find parking there lately? Agoza Kitchen 5528 Alpha Road, No. 105 469-914-0111, instagram.com/agozakitchen Hole-in-the-wall hidden gems are often tucked away next to (or inside) a gas station, and Agoza Kitchen is no exception. Next to a Valero station near the ghost of Valley View Mall, this spot has Ethiopian staples and groceries as well as some really good pre- pared food to go if the three small tables in- side are taken. Try some of the meat dishes such as kitfo (minced meat with Ethiopian hot pepper, mitmita) or tibse (lamb sautéed and grilled with tomato, onion, garlic and ginger), sopping up all the juices with the in- jera, a pancake-like flatbread traditionally made with teff flour, a wheat native to Ethio- pia. The vegetable-centric should try the combo plate consisting of lentils, collard greens, split pea, cabbage and potato. Don’t forget an order of sambusa, the Ethiopian take on a samosa. Eating using the injera can be a messy experience for the uninitiated, but the staff is quick to supply you with as many napkins as needed. Ari District Thai Bistro 2525 Inwood Road, No. 123 469-778-0075, aridistrict.com Hole-in-the-wall places often feature street food, and Ari District fills that bill, serving up Bangkok-style street food mixed with some small-town flavors found in other parts of Thailand. The décor, however, de- parts from the typical hole-in-the-wall aes- thetic, being elegant, cozy, bright and inviting. Once open for dinner, Ari District is now strictly a breakfast/brunch affair. Fresh breakfast fare and baked goods are prepared daily, and standouts include pork and taro “pup” pies that are as cute as they are deli- cious, and egg sandwiches and souffle pan- cakes. Expected Thai dishes such as pad kee maow and pad Thai are also on the menu, as are various curries, noodles and soups along with coffee and tea. The baked goods, how- ever, are really the standout and can sell out fast, so get there early. If the pup pies are all gone, you could do a lot worse than trying one of the black garlic cheesy spinach rolls. Or two. | CITY OF ATE | t Dish Hank Vaughn From top down: Agoza Kitchen, Reggae Wings & Tings >> p16
