19 August 8 - 14, 2024 dallasobserver.com DALLAS OBSERVER Classified | MusiC | dish | Culture | unfair Park | Contents Hey, Bartrender You won’t be the same after a carajillo puts your espresso martini to shame. BY AAREN PRODY T he espresso martini was born the day one of the world’s top supermodels (rumored to be Naomi Campbell or Kate Moss) asked London bar- tender Dick Bradsell for something “to wake me up, then fuck me up,” and the booze-soaked 1980s in Soho were never the same. Socialites and club rats indulged in the duality of the vodka and coffee liqueur through the ‘90s and early 2000s before it faded into obscurity. It lay almost dormant for two decades before it crept back into the spotlight at the turn of the pan- demic. At this time specialty coffee was on the rise across the U.S., and we had all grown tired of being cooped up watching endless reruns of cult classics. We had lost our edge, but the espresso martini offered the resurrection we all needed. In 2022, it replaced the Manhattan as one of the 10 Most Or- dered Cocktails in the country. Venture outside of the U.S., though, and coffee-based cock- tails have been cemented in international drinking scenes for centuries. Irish coffees, Italian caffè corretto and German pharisäers always had their foothold. We’re just catching up. For the U.S., espresso martinis were the gateway through which other coffee-based cocktails could enter. One creation that has been creeping onto our cocktails menus, rather un- surprisingly, is Mexico’s own coffee cocktail, the carajillo. A carajillo is similar in structure to the martini, made with two equal parts, but both share more differences than they do similarities. The newcomer is one part espresso and one part Licor 43 (more specifically, real espresso and Licor 43). It’s much sweeter with different flavor notes, whereas the martini is sharp and more bitter. Licor 43 is an amber-hued liqueur created in a small dis- tillery in Cartagena, Spain, in 1946. Its complex yet harmoni- ous flavor can be broken down into four levels: citrus, botanic, sweet and floral. But it’s said by the creators that 43 different flavors perfect the secret Zamora family recipe. The spirit is a constant mystery, but the citrus, chocolate, anise and orange peel are proof that the drink is not nick- named “liquid gold” for nothin’. While the liqueur has a traceable lineage, the origins of the carajillo depend on where you are and whom you ask. A lot of fingers point to Cuba with two claims: one, that the drink was created by indentured plantation laborers who drank the con- coction to lend them courage for the day. And two, that Span- ish troops stationed in colonial Cuba drank a rum-spiked coffee for corajillo, ironically the Spanish word for courage. Long story short, someone concocted some liquid courage and the rest is history. It spread across Mexico, Spain and other Latin American countries, each country putting its spin on the drink. The modern carajillo shows up in many differ- ent ways, but regardless of the recipe, it’ll always deliver. Once this drink caught our eye on more than one cocktail menu around Dallas, we knew it was time to spread the word. Next time you’re out, conclude dinner or kick-start your weekend plans with our favorite carajillos in Big D. Order it ‘puesto’, where the layers are distinct between the liqueur and espresso or ‘shakeado’ for a nice and frothy finish. Ayahuasca Cantina 334 Jefferson Blvd. (inside Xaman Cafe) Stop into Ayahuasca for happy hour and you can try an authen- tic carajillo for only $10. They use one part Licor 43 and one part their small batch and specialty Mexican coffee. Grab an Espresso Martinez for a mix of both drinks, made with Mezcal Espadin, Licor 43, house-made horchata and espresso. Goodwins 2905 Greenville Ave. All eyes have been on Goodwins since its grand opening ear- lier this summer. They’re shining a light on the carajillo with a section on the menu dedicated to “magic bean juice” that also includes an espresso martini. They use Licor 43 and LDU’s wildly popular espresso for the underdog. One round and you’ll be ready for liftoff. Escondido 5950 Royal Lane Escondido does a slight variation of the carajillo. They use cold brew rather than espresso and Licor 43, then add copa de oro (coffee liqueur), 100% blue agave and Jalisco orange. It gives it a lighter coffee flavor and a more complex finish. TacoLingo Tex-Mex 2301 N. Akard St. TacoLingo spices up the carajillo experience by adding Rumchata to the classic recipe and using cold brew over espresso. During Happy Hour, grab one for $2 off (psst: and $3 street tacos). The Saint 2633 Gaston Ave. You can imbibe in a carajillo during The Saint’s Proper Jazz Brunch, but we bet you can order one anytime if you ask nicely. Here Licor 43 is partnered with Socorro blanco tequila (known for its smoky notes) and a proper shot of espresso pulled as or- dered, all imbued with smoked cherrywood essence. ▼ OPENINGS PLUS, THEY CHEAT AT BASEBALL EL TIEMPO BRINGS HOUSTON TEX-MEX TO ARLINGTON. WE TRIED IT. SHRUG. BY LAUREN DREWES DANIELS W hen news broke that El Tiempo — a Houston Tex-Mex restaurant — was moving into the outer rim of Choctaw Stadium in Arlington, my inter- est was piqued. I grew up (part-time) in Houston, and my family loved the Tex-Mex institution Monterrey House. I like to tell people “I’m part enchilada” because I ate so many enchilada plates there when I was young. The long-shuttered spot was the center of my first food memories. There was one across the street from my school and when my parents picked me up late — it was the ’80s, so that was fine back then — I’d guilt them into yet another cheese en- chilada plate. I’ve even found the recipe for the candies they hid in the chips. One bite is like sinking into a pool of nostalgia. It’s also fun to argue how Houston and Dallas have differ- ent tastes for Tex-Mex. Like how Houston doesn’t have On The Border there because it’s so inauthentic. Can’t argue that point, and despite North Texas supporting dozens of OTBs, we also have our share of solid Tex-Mex. So, the idea of a “Houston Tex-Mex institution” moving here generated excitement. Eater Houston names El Tiempo Cantina an essential Tex-Mex spot, and the Houston Chroni- cle crowned it best of the best Tex-Mex restaurant and sev- eral other titles this year. Really. Choctaw Tex-Mex El Tiempo is built into the side of Choctaw Stadium that faces the new Loews Hotel. The area was formerly a concourse of the old Rangers stadium; it’s a full brick-and-mortar restaurant space with no signs of peanuts or cracker jacks. The notable arches around the stadium serve as windows to the restaurant. We’re excited to see this build-out adding to the entertainment district that encompasses three stadiums, two hotels and the convention center. It serves as a great option for out-of-towners to check out our state’s venerable Tex-Mex cuisine. In theory. On a recent Saturday night, we were one of about six parties at the restaurant. Parking is pretty easy at the lot next to the sta- dium (at the northeast corner) — on non-game days, anyway. We obviously started with chips and salsa and instantly when the creamy green salsa hit the table, Ninfa’s came to mind. Sarah Blaskovich at The Dallas Morning News reported the restaurant has Ninfa’s roots, another spot born in Hous- ton. The red salsa is served warm and, with the just-delicate- enough chips, could have been dinner alone. Perfection. Margaritas took a while to come out but were worth the wait. There’s a bevy of options, from mango to skinny for about $12 each. Literally giddy, a decision was made to skip all other ap- petizers to make sure we weren’t full when the mains ar- rived. Maybe there were some irrational expectations here. The Las Vegas plate (about $22) has a little bit of every- thing and seemed like a good start. It comes with a cheese enchilada, crispy beef taco and chicken fajita meat with a side of rice and beans. While filling, everything from the beans to taco was subpar, and the fajita meat was unappetiz- ing, beige and lifeless. This is a very basic, nothing special plate of Tex-Mex where even the rice and beans felt lazy. A chicken fajita enchilada came topped with El Tiempo’s celebrated Texas red chili, a thin red sauce dotted with ground beef, over a bright orange cheese sauce. A one-enchi- lada plate is $17.99, two is $22.99. With the same uninspired rice and beans, this was mediocre fare at best. We ordered more chips and salsa halfway through our meal. A plate of beef tacos came on freshly baked tortillas, which was nice. But again, this is an overall bland and disap- pointing feast. With all of that said, our server could not have been more pleasant. Everyone at the restaurant was attentive and friendly. Bottom Line The bill for four adult drinks and three plates (including a one-enchilada plate) was over $130 with tip, and in no way did we at any point feel like we achieved that amount of culi- nary satisfaction or greatness. There are plenty of places within a stone’s throw of the stadium that are better at half the price. Want names? Sure: Los Jarros, Gilberto’s — heck, even Candlelight Inn. So, welcome to town, Houston. El Tiempo Cantina, 1011 Nolan Ryan Expressway, Arlington. Sunday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.; Saturday – Sunday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. ▼ DRINKING SPILLING THE BOOZE MONARCH, KESSAKU AND SANJH HAVE SOME OF THE BEST-TASTING (AND LOOKING) COCKTAILS IN THE CITY. BY CARLY MAY GRAVLEY M ost of us appreciate good cocktails, but Christina De- mas has taken her passion for crafting good things to drink to the next level. The mixologist rose | CITY OF ATE | ▼ Dish Aaren Prody Anything an espresso martini can do, a carajillo can do better. Especially at Ayahuasca. >> p20
